iaokie requesting help

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 11:48 pm

iaokie wrote:Power supply wires are rock hard and some are bare

Yep REPLACE that power cord with a 12-3 gauge wire. ONLY if ya can get the other stuff fixed/replaced.

chucks · Post by **chucks** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:01 am

iaokie wrote:That might be the better choise for me too
After more disassembling It's not looking good
Apparently the cam I had was an extra heres what I found inside
Power supply wires are rock hard and some are bare
The sheave looks ok but the end where the bearing fits into has a piece missing
Looks like the fun has just begun

Parts are always a fun search. This is a fun way to search a wider area....if you can get people to ship parts. There is a Mark VII in New Mexico thas has a steel cam for a $100....parting out, or is the cam Mfg properly? I don't know.

http://www.searchtempest.com/

iaokie · Post by **iaokie** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:21 am

Thanks the more sites to search the better

iaokie · Post by **iaokie** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 6:53 pm

Great info on this site for dismantling your machine
Wasn't to difficult at all Looks as though nothing else is broken just normal wear
Poly belt will be replaced The spindle shaft bearing has a considerable amount of play .200 -.350 i'm guessing and one end of the bearing seal is pushed in so probably might as well do all the bearings when I can
Maybe an up grade would be less costly
Anyway a few more pics

jayp413 · Post by **jayp413** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:41 pm

Very nice pics. It looks as if damage is minimal! Good luck with the restore!

wannabewoodworker · Post by **wannabewoodworker** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 9:52 pm

That machine is in salvageable condition for sure. All the rust will clean up nicely and the cam looks like it could be repaired. The cam inside is toast. I don't know how people could have used these the way they were without knowing that they were causing severe damage to the headstock. The cams get melted and damaged from lack of bearing performance on the cam follower. When I rebuilt mine I broke the cam follower with the bearing on the end. I was trying to remove the bearing to replace it but it is peened on to the end of the quadrant and I tried to pull it off with a puller and it snapped the little pin that the bearing fits over right off of the quadrant. I had a guy make me another quadrant but he didn't make it very well as it does not have the sloping face on it like the original. It works fine but it isn't perfect. I have since gotten a spare off of Damagi I think? Anyway I have a spare quadrant and bearing if the one that is in the machine ever decides to give up the ship. I think the spare cam you have could be repaired using some epoxy like JPG stated. Just stand it up and cover both sides with some aluminum or cardboard whatever and fill in the damaged section. Once it is cured just shape and sand it flush with the rest of the cam and it should work fine. The wiring looks to be fine. On my Mark V I replaced the whole cord with a 25' heavy duty extension cord and a strain relief I found at Lowes that worked slick. I would replace all the bearings in the headstock as they are cheap and you won't have to mess with them again for many years. Clean the tubes up with some progressively finer sandpaper and scotchbrite and then make sawdust. I have not been successful at getting a cam machined for me by the machinist I was talking to about 1.5 years ago. His roof collapsed over the winter from excessive snow load so not sure what he is doing right now. When I emailed him after the accident he said he still wanted to make the parts for me but it has been almost two years and still no love so I am not holding my breath. If he however does ever make the parts up for me I will post an update and let you all know as once he does one he can another very quickly as the setup etc. has already been done.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:27 pm

iaokie wrote:Great info on this site for dismantling your machine
Wasn't to difficult at all Looks as though nothing else is broken just normal wear
Poly belt will be replaced The spindle shaft bearing has a considerable amount of play .200 -.350 i'm guessing and one end of the bearing seal is pushed in so probably might as well do all the bearings when I can
Maybe an up grade would be less costly
Anyway a few more pics

The Poly-V pulley on the Drive Sleeve has rotated on the Drive Sleeve shaft. The Drive Sleeve set screw does loosen allowing this to happen. The set screw should always align with the hub flat on the end of the Drive Sleeve. I would loosen the set screw and turn the pulley until the set screw aligns with this end flat. Than tighten the set screw. I normally use use red LocTite on the Drive Sleeve pulley set screw once it is aligned.

You need a new Poly-V belt. I replace the motor belt whenever replacing the Poly-V belt.

Feel free to contact me (annbill.mayo@comcast.net) if you have any questions, wants or needs.

rpd · Post by **rpd** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 4:32 am

Let me preface this by saying that I am working on rebuilding my first Mk 5 and have only seen photos of Mk VII's.

The head stock casings look similar but different somehow and the control sheave looks similar also.

So this is probably a sill question, but here goes anyway.

Has anyone tried to adapt a Mk V speed control to work in a MK VII head stock in place of the MK VII speed control?

Probably not to hard to make an adapter plate to mount it in the hole, but would the end of the quadrant be in the right place to work the control sheave?

iaokie · Post by **iaokie** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:59 pm

Thanks for info and encouragement Wannabe and Billmayo
Good question rpd I've been wondering the same thing
I have some crazy good tool makers at work so i'll be asking(begging)
them for help

iaokie · Post by **iaokie** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 7:25 pm

Just a few minutes with scotch-brite wheels
Think it will take a while but no nicks or dings on tables