I know I have ordered and received Shopsmith bandsaw inserts in the recent history (last year or so). I really like the machined ones but without knowing the cost well????. I have not used the Peachtree ones but I will probably order some.reible wrote:Hi,
For my part of this tread I will no doubt be asking more questions then providing answers.
I've spent a few hours reading past posts and found that a lot of them deal with issues and problems, a smaller number deal with improvements and upgrades, but, however good they were I still seemed to get bogged down by the vast number of them. And no I didn't even get close to reading them all.
As a first post I'm interested in the table insert (502736) #98 in the online parts catalog. I've read that they are no longer around but they sure do seem to be in the BUY category.
The one in my table is home made, on the low side of quality it will most likely work but then I'm going to be bothered by it until it is gone.
I'd seen a replacement mentioned, I then searched it out, the quality of the workmanship is excellent and well out of my price range but for those that like really nice things this would be a must buy. I of course reference the ones sold by Jeff at:
http://www.califsawdustman.com/
From another site someone said that the insets for a "Delta 14" " would fit as they are also 2-1/2".
When I went searching for these I came across some zero clearance inserts, there is nothing to say one could not cut a "standard" slot in one of these for general use and then use another for those special times when a ZCI is called for. The price seems reasonable and is now on my shopping list. I would like to here from anyone who has tried these.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/band_saw_acc.htm#3701
item 1750 (even says shopsmith).
The other option would be to make my own, uhmw plastic would be an easy task but in the long run the material cost and time spent makes me think this is not the best option.
Anyone up for a discussion on the first subject of this post?
Ed
Modification Bandsaw (Cast Iron table version)
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Ed,
If your cover has the dust collection port and you want one with the window then you can order just the window from Shopsmith. Although apparently they doubled the price of the window shortly after I posted the upgrade procedure...
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=6716
The window and access hole are probably two of the most useful upgrades I made to my bandsaw.
I also installed the cool blocks and have been happy with them.
Troy
If your cover has the dust collection port and you want one with the window then you can order just the window from Shopsmith. Although apparently they doubled the price of the window shortly after I posted the upgrade procedure...
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=6716
The window and access hole are probably two of the most useful upgrades I made to my bandsaw.
I also installed the cool blocks and have been happy with them.
Troy
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
As noted, the inserts for the cast iron tables can still be purchased from SS. I have used SS bandsaws with stock dust ports and retrofitted ports. Dust collection is just okay. When resawing, I usually vacuum up piles of saw dust from below the saw. Still better than no DC which requires removing cover and sucking up sawdust from inside. The miter gauge with wooden extension mounted makes a fine fence. I have also modified old 500 rip fences and aluminum fence bar to work on the CI table.
Good luck with it and great to see you posting again, Ed.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
My Mods
Guide blocks: Made mine from white oak. Soaked them in used motor oil. Works fine.
Bearings: Just did SS upgrade and replaced them all with those from SS. No problems.
Cover: A hole in the edge to allow tension adjustment. A hole at the tension gauge location to see the tension indicator. A BIG hole at the bottom to accept a toilet flange which is just right sized for a 4" DC hose. Catches MOST of the dust.
Wheel: After almost every operation, especially resawing, I use a brass brush to clean the rubber.
Table Inserts: Bought 4 from SS about 3 months ago. I don't have leveling screws? Just a little tab to keep it from turning. I like those UHMW snap ins from Peach Tree, though. Thanks for that link, Ed.
Bearings: Just did SS upgrade and replaced them all with those from SS. No problems.
Cover: A hole in the edge to allow tension adjustment. A hole at the tension gauge location to see the tension indicator. A BIG hole at the bottom to accept a toilet flange which is just right sized for a 4" DC hose. Catches MOST of the dust.

Wheel: After almost every operation, especially resawing, I use a brass brush to clean the rubber.
Table Inserts: Bought 4 from SS about 3 months ago. I don't have leveling screws? Just a little tab to keep it from turning. I like those UHMW snap ins from Peach Tree, though. Thanks for that link, Ed.
Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
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Hi
For the bandsaw cover - I just drilled a hole in the side so that i can put in the allen key and cut and filed a hole so that i can see the adjustment marks - no plastic window - I dont think it is neccesary - total cost zero, time about an hour and a half - I can post pictures if you would like
Nath
For the bandsaw cover - I just drilled a hole in the side so that i can put in the allen key and cut and filed a hole so that i can see the adjustment marks - no plastic window - I dont think it is neccesary - total cost zero, time about an hour and a half - I can post pictures if you would like
Nath
Hi,
Thanks for the ideas that have come in.
Just getting started on the modifications I've selected to do. First up is the hole in the cover to adjust the tension and the view port. They were simple enough and I can see how this is going to be very handy.
On my other bandsaw I did a view port under the cover plate, the adjustment is a knob on the top so that was already exposed. I made the cover plate placement/removable via magnets and that has worked really well. I used a gasket to contain the saw dust, not sure it was really needed.
On the shopsmith I went with a piece of Lexan 9600 (left over from some project years ago) for the window. I mounted it inside the cover and used pop rivets from the outside. Should anyone worry, Lexan is not Plexiglas and pop rivets work fine. The piece I had was smaller then the sizes I have read about but it seems like it will work fine.
Not sure what will be the next step, keep checking the mail box for some little packages of parts for the dual bearing changes. Thanks for those that offered and those that are providing these parts. I'm thinking next week on some of that stuff.
Next on tap could also be the dust port. My other bandsaw had a dust port out the lower back, better then nothing I guess but still a lot of dust around even with the vac running. I elected to add a dust port just below the cutting area then run hoses to a "Y" and collect both places, that works pretty well except when you forget to check to see if the vac hose is connected to the "Y" like I did a month or so ago.
I looked at the dust port conversion that shopsmith sells but....
Found this, which is a lot like the one I put on the other bandsaw:
http://www.ptreeusa.com/dust_ports.htm#387
Put in an order for the zero clearance inserts, dust port and some mini t-track(another project), just today.
Cleaned up the cover some more, lots of battle scars. Is this typical? My other bandsaw cover from the early '70s looks new compared to the shopsmith cover on this machine.
Ed
Thanks for the ideas that have come in.
Just getting started on the modifications I've selected to do. First up is the hole in the cover to adjust the tension and the view port. They were simple enough and I can see how this is going to be very handy.
On my other bandsaw I did a view port under the cover plate, the adjustment is a knob on the top so that was already exposed. I made the cover plate placement/removable via magnets and that has worked really well. I used a gasket to contain the saw dust, not sure it was really needed.
On the shopsmith I went with a piece of Lexan 9600 (left over from some project years ago) for the window. I mounted it inside the cover and used pop rivets from the outside. Should anyone worry, Lexan is not Plexiglas and pop rivets work fine. The piece I had was smaller then the sizes I have read about but it seems like it will work fine.
Not sure what will be the next step, keep checking the mail box for some little packages of parts for the dual bearing changes. Thanks for those that offered and those that are providing these parts. I'm thinking next week on some of that stuff.
Next on tap could also be the dust port. My other bandsaw had a dust port out the lower back, better then nothing I guess but still a lot of dust around even with the vac running. I elected to add a dust port just below the cutting area then run hoses to a "Y" and collect both places, that works pretty well except when you forget to check to see if the vac hose is connected to the "Y" like I did a month or so ago.
I looked at the dust port conversion that shopsmith sells but....
Found this, which is a lot like the one I put on the other bandsaw:
http://www.ptreeusa.com/dust_ports.htm#387
Put in an order for the zero clearance inserts, dust port and some mini t-track(another project), just today.
Cleaned up the cover some more, lots of battle scars. Is this typical? My other bandsaw cover from the early '70s looks new compared to the shopsmith cover on this machine.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Busy week but not much of that time was spent on the bandsaw. I did get the plastic table inserts order in. The word snap should not be in the description, as there is no "snap". The insert does fit the hole and as such is a drop in.
There is no means by which to insure the insert will not turn... not sure I like that. I guess maybe a small modification will be in order once I get to that point of attempting to use them.
I did take one picture of the three which might help you in understand what you get:
[ATTACH]13775[/ATTACH]
Ed
There is no means by which to insure the insert will not turn... not sure I like that. I guess maybe a small modification will be in order once I get to that point of attempting to use them.
I did take one picture of the three which might help you in understand what you get:
[ATTACH]13775[/ATTACH]
Ed
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{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I thought I would do at least this simple post on the dual bearings that I added. First a picture of the "parts"
[ATTACH]13776[/ATTACH]
As you put the bushing in the bearings you might find that they are not quite fitting together like they should. This picture shows one bearing not flush with the bushing and the second bearing both not on the bushing and not adjacent to the other bearing.
[ATTACH]13777[/ATTACH]
There are many ways to "fix" this, I opted to use a bolt, flat washer on first, then the bushing with bearings on, followed by a second flat washer then a nut. The flat washers make sure you not putting pressure in places you don't want to... the bolt head and nut would also work but I elected to add the washers because I've need to do this several time and like the contact area of the washer isolating load.
[ATTACH]13778[/ATTACH]
This should take very little force so a pair of wrenches does very well.
[ATTACH]13779[/ATTACH]
And there you are!
Ed
[ATTACH]13776[/ATTACH]
As you put the bushing in the bearings you might find that they are not quite fitting together like they should. This picture shows one bearing not flush with the bushing and the second bearing both not on the bushing and not adjacent to the other bearing.
[ATTACH]13777[/ATTACH]
There are many ways to "fix" this, I opted to use a bolt, flat washer on first, then the bushing with bearings on, followed by a second flat washer then a nut. The flat washers make sure you not putting pressure in places you don't want to... the bolt head and nut would also work but I elected to add the washers because I've need to do this several time and like the contact area of the washer isolating load.
[ATTACH]13778[/ATTACH]
This should take very little force so a pair of wrenches does very well.
[ATTACH]13779[/ATTACH]
And there you are!
Ed
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{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
I've been doing more reading on the shopsmith bandsaw and my newest question has to do with the aligning the blade tension scale. From what I understand the edge above the notch should be aligned with the left side of the bar.... so mine goods right, right?
[ATTACH]13781[/ATTACH]
Ed
[ATTACH]13781[/ATTACH]
Ed
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{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]