Heads up on Pro Planer Control Box potential failure

[gpmark]

Yes, I would add a box since there is not enough room in the existing box. I would probably use a controller that has a separate pot and put it in the current location to control speed.

If I were to put in a fuse, it would likely be a circuit breaker that monitored and tripped both sides of the power in, and ahead of controller since that is what's more likely to fail and trip the house breaker. If the load on the motor was too great it would likely trip anyway or take out the controller which is the cheaper of the two components.

BTW - I've only seen one other post by someone who has checked their controller for poor solder joints. His was good. So far that's one good and one bad, but I would love to hear if others have problems. That would probably spur me on to design a better, long term solution to this poor design.

[JPG]

Yes, I would add a box since there is not enough room in the existing box. I would probably use a controller that has a separate pot and put it in the current location to control speed.

If I were to put in a fuse, it would likely be a circuit breaker that monitored and tripped both sides of the power in, and ahead of controller since that is what's more likely to fail and trip the house breaker. If the load on the motor was too great it would likely trip anyway or take out the controller which is the cheaper of the two components.

BTW - I've only seen one other post by someone who has checked their controller for poor solder joints. His was good. So far that's one good and one bad, but I would love to hear if others have problems. That would probably spur me on to design a better, long term solution to this poor design.

That would please Bill Mayo greatly I am sure!;)

[billmayo]

[quote="JPG40504"]That would please Bill Mayo greatly I am sure!]

Yes, you are correct. I have quite a few 90 & 180 VDC KB Electronics controller boards but could not find a good place to mount the controller box they would have to fit into. Since the planer is a little heavy for me to mount and unmount, I was not satified with any location to mount the controller box where it would be somewhat safe if I mishandled the planer, like dropped the planer or bumped the controller box.

I have been unable to find a similar size controller board used in the planer and scroll saw or a simple way to expand the original planer controller box for a larger controller board. I have a couple bad planer controllers to play with some day if anyone has any ideas how to replace or mount a larger or similar controller box.

I need to find someone with a aluminum foundry or plastic box making capability which would be a great solution for using the larger controller boards. This may a great project for me this coming winter. I will make some drawings for this box so I am ready.

[gpmark]

Bill,

I think were heading in a similar direction. A KB controller is probably the fastest and best solution so we're on the same page theree. My thinking is to add a box by screwing or riveting it on to the original box where the power connector for the feed motor goes. That way it would sit under the motor and be out of the way.

A KBMG-21d would give everything needed, including the ability to reverse the motor in a jam situation, plus if the main motor is replace I could go to 220v. The pot could be put in the same place as the original speed control, power could be routed from the power switch into the new box, a circuit breaker and surge protector could be put in the new box or where the old speed controller went, and the power feed to the motor would be moved to the new box. Not elegant, but it wouldn't look shabby either if a box could be found that is the same depth and the width fits the controller and is even with the bottom of the original controller.

How does that fit with your plans?

[billmayo]

Bill,

I think were heading in a similar direction. A KB controller is probably the fastest and best solution so we're on the same page theree. My thinking is to add a box by screwing or riveting it on to the original box where the power connector for the feed motor goes. That way it would sit under the motor and be out of the way.

A KBMG-21d would give everything needed, including the ability to reverse the motor in a jam situation, plus if the main motor is replace I could go to 220v. The pot could be put in the same place as the original speed control, power could be routed from the power switch into the new box, a circuit breaker and surge protector could be put in the new box or where the old speed controller went, and the power feed to the motor would be moved to the new box. Not elegant, but it wouldn't look shabby either if a box could be found that is the same depth and the width fits the controller and is even with the bottom of the original controller.

How does that fit with your plans?

Almost a fit. A future project for me. Putting the controller box below the Feed motor would help protect the box. The smallest box that will fit the KB controller is about 1/2" taller than the right side of the planer controller and 1/4" deeper. I would saw off the planer box end (power to the Shopsmith headstock) and move the sawed off part to the end of the new controller box. I would use JB Weld to connect the existing and new boxes. I would use double sided tape to attach the new box to the planer. This mod would also fit on the scroll saw.
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[gpmark]

Good feedback!

Couple of thoughts in return:
1) which controller is that you're showing?
2) after a bit of thought after reading your neat idea of sawing off one end, I think I would prefer to make the extension out of plastic channel. Take of the end, use right angle aluminum or pvc glue sticks to attach the channel to the sawed of portion, ditto to reattach the sawed off piece, and two pieces to attach a top. Channel comes in many sizes of pvc and can be cut to fit.
3) I think I would also prefer to tap the cover and put a bolt in the new section to attach it.

Probably a month out before I try anything, but it's really good to talk this through with someone else!

[dusty]

Found this while looking for parts; thought it might be interesting.

Now all I have to do is relearn how to command and listen to these devices. Cobalt, Basic and Fortran will probably not work and maybe not even C, C+ and Pascal. I supposedly learned one additional language but I can't even remember its name now. Must be the age thing!

[damagi]

[quote="dusty"]Found this while looking for parts]

If you are looking for basic digital/analog type stuff, the arduino is much more popular. I was planning on using one to replace the console on a treadmill motor for a 10er. Need to find my logic analyzer though...

[gpmark]

One of my concerns about the crappy controller is the lack of motor protection. Sure enough the feed motor bit the dust. Opening it up I find that the windings are scorched and the permanent magnet has cracked in several places. Classic overheat and very easy with a sealed motor! And this has likely been going on for some time.

Doing a few calculations it also looks like the feed motor has marginal power. Fine if everything is going OK and you don't plane tough wood. But with marginal power its going to overheat - it should be overrated.

So I will be doing an upgrade shortly which includes retrofitting a more powerful motor (surplus Bodine from Ebay for $67 which is far better than Shopsmith and much more readily available), adding a thermal trip to the motor (a lot of DC geared motors aren't protected), and upgrading to a decent controller.

I will likely:
1) use plastic weld sticks to add on a plastic box to the existing controller,
2) put in a circuit breaker in the old box,
3) leave the motor speed in the old box (with a new pot),
4) put surge protection for the electronics in the new box,
5) and move the power connector portion of the old controller to the new plastic box.

The motor will take a mod to the drive gear and perhaps new holes in the gear cover.

If you have any input or thoughts, sure would love to hear them now.

Also, if your feed is working poorly you might want to pull the motor and check to see if the magnet is cracked or the windings are burned; we would all probably want to hear about it.

[dusty]

[quote="gpmark"]One of my concerns about the crappy controller is the lack of motor protection. Sure enough the feed motor bit the dust. Opening it up I find that the windings are scorched and the permanent magnet has cracked in several places. Classic overheat and very easy with a sealed motor! And this has likely been going on for some time.

Doing a few calculations it also looks like the feed motor has marginal power. Fine if everything is going OK and you don't plane tough wood. But with marginal power its going to overheat - it should be overrated.

So I will be doing an upgrade shortly which includes retrofitting a more powerful motor (surplus Bodine from Ebay for $67 which is far better than Shopsmith and much more readily available), adding a thermal trip to the motor (a lot of DC geared motors aren't protected), and upgrading to a decent controller.

I will likely:
1) use plastic weld sticks to add on a plastic box to the existing controller,
2) put in a circuit breaker in the old box,
3) leave the motor speed in the old box (with a new pot),
4) put surge protection for the electronics in the new box,
5) and move the power connector portion of the old controller to the new plastic box.

The motor will take a mod to the drive gear and perhaps new holes in the gear cover.

If you have any input or thoughts, sure would love to hear them now.

Also, if your feed is working poorly you might want to pull the motor and check to see if the magnet is cracked or the windings are burned]

Have you determined the "maximum rework cost" that you are willing to spend?

Of course - labor come at the rate of 0$/hour so time is not an issue.