Marine Lumber

This is a forum for intermediate to advanced woodworkers. Show off your projects or share your ideas.

Moderator: admin

User avatar
wannabewoodworker
Platinum Member
Posts: 626
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:36 am
Location: Milford, CT

Marine Lumber

Post by wannabewoodworker »

I am planning on making a compartment that mounts under the leaning post seat in my boat to hold odds and ends. I was planning to use something like King Starboard which is a high density plastic sheet that is made specifically for the marine industry. I need a 24" x 54" sheet but it costs about $170 from a guy on EBay which is the cheapest place I have found it and shipping is free. Does anyone know any alternative plastic lumber materials I could use? I was planning on using a 1" thick piece but could probably get away with a 3/4" thick piece if need be. I just can't get over how much it costs for sheet plastic it blows away the cost of wood but i don't want to mess with epoxying and fiberglassing the boc I am planning to make. The plastic would be ideal.
Michael Mayo
Senior IT Support Engineer
Soft Designs Inc.
albiemanmike@gmail.com
1960's SS Mark VII, 1954 Greenie, 1983 Mark V, Jointer, Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Dewalt Slider, Delta Super 10, Delta 8" Grinder, Craftsman compressor, Drill Doctor, Kreg PH Jig, Bosch Jigsaw, Craftsman Router and Table...........and adding more all the time....:D
foxtrapper
Gold Member
Posts: 439
Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:05 am

Post by foxtrapper »

You need the walls of a little under seat catch all box to be 3/4" to 1" thick? What are you storing in there that you will need such heavy wall thickness?
bffulgham
Gold Member
Posts: 459
Joined: Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:18 am
Location: Amarillo, TX area

Post by bffulgham »

If you don't need load bearing capability, could you use PVC trim boards to construct the storage box? I picked up a couple of 1x4 pieces from Lowes to use for straight-edges to lay porcelean floor tile. It can be machined with standard woodworking tools.
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
User avatar
shipwright
Platinum Member
Posts: 1165
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:28 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Contact:

Post by shipwright »

Why don't you just make it out of wood? There are plenty of rot resistant woods that have been used on boats for centuries with great success without any epoxy or fiberglass.
Incidentally fiberglass shouldn't be on the list. It won't stick to the wood and will ultimately cause more trouble than it was meant to prevent.

Paul M
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
User avatar
horologist
Gold Member
Posts: 431
Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2007 6:36 pm
Location: Melrose, FL

Post by horologist »

shipwright wrote:Why don't you just make it out of wood? There are plenty of rot resistant woods that have been used on boats for centuries with great success without any epoxy or fiberglass.
Incidentally fiberglass shouldn't be on the list. It won't stick to the wood and will ultimately cause more trouble than it was meant to prevent.

Paul M
Paul,
A wooden canoe or kayak has been on my list of projects I would like to build when I have a wood shop bigger than the laundry room. Nearly all the plans I have seen call for coating the hull with a thin layer of fiberglass. I've never been thrilled with this idea as fiberglass is such nasty stuff to work with and it seems even a thin layer would obscure the wood grain. I would think spar varnish too soft, perhaps epoxy? What is the best alternative?

Troy
The best equipped laundry room in the neighborhood...
foxtrapper
Gold Member
Posts: 439
Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:05 am

Post by foxtrapper »

Done with clear epoxy and you can't see the fiberglass. It is glass after all.

What you're getting tripped up on is the cheap polyester resin fiberglass repair kits. That's the cheap stinky murky jelly stuff. Don't use it.

The epoxy on the other hand is virtually odorless, expensive, clear and liquid. Great stuff.

Sticks wonderfully to wood.

My first kayak was a stitch and glue with a strip deck I designed. Modified a Mill Creek design.
User avatar
jbooher
Gold Member
Posts: 84
Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:47 am
Location: Corsicana, Texas

Post by jbooher »

You could coat the wood with epoxy and use varnish to UV it. Fiberglass will stick to wood. Wooden canoes are built using stips of wood and fiberglass. I just finished making a 14 foot boat using cedar strips. The bottom has two layers of fiberglass and the inside has one. I used the West System epoxy with the clear hardener. It was easy to do using a small paint brush. The West System does not have the strong fumes that some epoxy has.
User avatar
shipwright
Platinum Member
Posts: 1165
Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:28 pm
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Contact:

Post by shipwright »

To clarify: Technically fiberglass won't stick to anything. It is a dry fabric.

Fiberglass, is a term commonly used to mean glass fiber reinforced plastic (GRP in England). It is laid up with polyester resin, a useful plastic that sticks to other polyester beautifully, as in a fiberglass boat, but does not stick to wood as several quite well known boat manufacturers discovered to their dismay back in the 60's. When I said that fiberglass wouldn't stick to wood I was referring to that definition.

Fiberglass, as in glass fiber reinforcing material, can be applied with polyester as above or with other plastics, notably in boat building, epoxy.
Epoxy will stick to just about anything except polyethylene.

Troy, I agree with Foxtrapper, You should use a light glass cloth in epoxy. My suggestion would be 6 oz. glass cloth set in System Three Silvertip Laminating Resin. It is a water clear epoxy resin that has a great consistency for wetting out cloth and cures without the amine blush that most other epoxies have. That makes it much easier to sand.

Epoxy alone would lack the necessary abrasion resistance. Also the cloth / epoxy skin will add a surprising amount of stiffness.

Paul M
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
judaspre1982
Platinum Member
Posts: 1237
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:10 pm

Post by judaspre1982 »

====================================
Last edited by judaspre1982 on Sun May 07, 2017 2:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35600
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

Interesting pix with carpeting ad!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Post Reply