Need some help

[hagarz71]

Thanks for your help I will try that tomorrow and follow up.

[slowride59]

You could possibly try PB BLASTER ON IT. Spray several times over a period of time. At each time you spray it try to move it. Eventually it should come loose.

[dusty]

There's a two-step solution for your problem, Hagar. Here goes:


2. If A rubber mallet doesn't loosen the wedge, or the mechanism remains too tight to move by hand even after you've tapped it back and forth several times, it's time to get serious. Remove the headstock from the way tubes and rest it on you workbench quill down. Remove the rear motor cover and the motor pan. This should give you access to the wedge mechanism. TIGHTEN the headstock locking handle about 30 turns, or until there is about 2" of threaded rod showing between the handle and the frozen left wedge. The right wedge will have come completely out of its socket. Grasp the wedge mechanism inside the headstock and work it back and forth until you have freed the frozen wedge from its socket too. Clean the inside surfaces of the sockets and the cylindrical surfaces of the wedges with a soft wire brush and fine sandpaper until they are as smooth as you can make them.

Hold both wedges steady on the threaded rod and turn the handle as if you were loosening the mechanism. The wedges will begin to move away from each other. Guide them into their respective sockets and continue until the handle is snug against the left wedge. Test to make sure that you can move the wedge mechanism back and forth easily -- there should be about 1/8" of play. If there isn't, turn the right wedge (the one nearest the quill stop) on the threaded rod until there is. Replace the headstock on the way tubes.

,

Why can this procedure NOT be done with the headstock in place on the SS?

[ronsmv]

Hagar, one of the best Oil's I have used to lubricate and free frozen parts is "AERO KROIL" made by;
KANO LABORORATORIES
1000 S. Thompson LN.
Nashville, TN 37211

Phone: 615-833-4101
FAX: 615-833-5790
http://kanolabs.com

You can go on line and usually get a nice trial package at a savings.
They have several types of oil for various uses and explain each in detail.

Ron H-South Carolina

[ronsmv]

Hagar, one of the best Oil's I have used to lubricate and free frozen parts is "AERO KROIL" made by;
KANO LABORORATORIES
1000 S. Thompson LN.
Nashville, TN 37211

Phone: 615-833-4101
FAX: 615-833-5790
http://kanolabs.com

You can go on line and usually get a nice trial package at a savings.
They have several types of oil for various uses and explain each in detail.

Ron H-South Carolina

[hagarz71]

Thanks for your input,

The solution was to tighten the quill lock about 30 turns to extract the seized wedge so far, I've yet to sand it and reinstall because im considering replacing it, but it's no longer stuck.

Thanks

[hagarz71]

Thanks for the help.

After trying to free the wedge with a mallet unsuccessfully, i tightened as instructed to free the stuck wedge, some parts broke off of the wedge and i am ordering replacements.

[Nick]

Why can this procedure NOT be done with the headstock in place on the SS?

Because you can't tighten the headstock lock 30 turns with the way tubes running through the headstock, Dusty. You will either (1) dent the way tubes big time, or (2) strip out the threads in the aluminum wedges, or (3) both.

With all good wishes,

[Nick]

For those of you following this thread, I have some additional information from the good folks who rebuild Shopsmith headstocks here at the factory. The most common cause of Hagar's troubles -- one locking wedge moves while the other remains in place -- is that the headstock lock has been overtightened repeatedly. This practice eventually causes the threaded steel rod to strip out the threads in the softer aluminum locking wedge nearest the handle (on the speed dial side of the headstock). As the steel rod is drawn through the soft aluminum and strips out the threads, it also causes the wedge to expand slightly -- and the wedge locks in its socket. When this happens, the only solution is to remove the headstock from the way tubes, remove the roll pin in the handle with a 1/8" punch, remove the locking assembly, and install new wedges.

Remember that the proper way to tighten the headstock lock is to spin it until its snug, then turn it an additional 1/4 turn. You should never tighten the lock further than 1/2 turn past snug. If the headstock is slipping on the way tubes even when the lock is tighten 1/2 turn past snug, it's because (1) there is a buildup of fine sawdust inside the headstock, (2) there is a buildup of wax on the wedges because you have not been properly buffing the wax after applying it to the way tubes, or (3) the wedges are worn and need to be replaced.

Additionally, we ask you to ignore the well-meaning but potentially troublesome advice about using various oils to free the wedges, even penetrating oils. If you get oil, wax, silicone, or any other lubricant on the locking surfaces of the wedges, the locking mechanism won't hold. (See #2 in the above paragraph.) You will have to remove the headstock from the way tubes, remove the rear cover and motor pan, and thoroughly clean the wedges with a powerful solvent such as acetone or xylol.

With all good wishes,

[chettrick]

I was going to say what Nick said but a little briefer. I was watching my wife use our SS and found that when she tried to tighten the lathe chisel rest, it would still move on her. I noticed this because she was trying to crank the wrong part and was over tightening the assembly. I believe this will also in time dent or bend the way tubes and the motor assembly would not slide as easy.

Another thing I would try after you got the assembly apart would be to use powder graphite for the gears like you would use on door locks. A little goes a long way and allows the gears to be lubricated without damaging oils.