small spline jig anyone?

[reible]

I've just started the design process for a small spline jig to fit the shopsmith table saw. As such if there is interest I can go though how I am progressing though the phases and show the output of my sketchup plans and maybe even do some details of the actual build.

This is a sideline process so it may go fast at some points and really slow at other times....

Some of you maybe at a lost as to what I'm talking about so here are a few captures of what is up in my sketch to this point.

Front of jig
[ATTACH]13816[/ATTACH]

Rear of Jig
[ATTACH]13817[/ATTACH]

Work piece with resulting cut
[ATTACH]13818[/ATTACH]

Spline is glued in
[ATTACH]13819[/ATTACH]

Trimmed and sanded flush
[ATTACH]13820[/ATTACH]

The box shown is just a sample, picture frames, flag boxes, what ever can have the splines added for just looks or to add strength to the joint. You may also cut them at angles to give a different look. Match wood, contrast wood, splines need not even be made of wood.

If there is interest I'll give out a lot more details. BTW what is shown is just a simple sketch, just gives the general idea.

Ed

[JPG]

A dovetail spline version would be 'interesting'. It would need a wider 'kerf' cut in the base.(below table bit as well)

[wa2crk]

Reible;
I like your idea for long projects. One idea that comes to mind is to mark the saw blade cut lines on the jig so the kerf areas can be located to make wider kerfs. For narrower things like picture frames I use a saddle fixture. The one in the pic has the vertical guide moveable so that different angles can be accomodated.
[ATTACH]13822[/ATTACH]
Bill V

[reible]

I all ready have a jig for that, it fits my Jointech fence and is built to slide along the fence to make the cuts. A totally different design, made to lower the joint to table height which is almost a requirement to use it with a router. It also works with a saw blade but I've never used it in that way.

http://www.jointech.com/optaccess.htm

Ed

A dovetail spline version would be 'interesting'. It would need a wider 'kerf' cut in the base.(below table bit as well)

[reible]

Yes that is another good design that many of us have made and used.

If you happen to have the tenon jig that will work well for this same sort of application (http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... aster.htm).

I think everyone should consider making a jig like yours, they are very handy for a lot of projects, a good all around addition to the shop.

Ed

Reible]13822[/ATTACH]
Bill V

[mrhart]

I've just started the design process for a small spline jig to fit the shopsmith table saw. As such if there is interest I can go though how I am progressing though the phases and show the output of my sketchup plans and maybe even do some details of the actual build.

This is a sideline process so it may go fast at some points and really slow at other times....

Some of you maybe at a lost as to what I'm talking about so here are a few captures of what is up in my sketch to this point.

Front of jig
[ATTACH]13816[/ATTACH]

Rear of Jig
[ATTACH]13817[/ATTACH]

Work piece with resulting cut
[ATTACH]13818[/ATTACH]

Spline is glued in
[ATTACH]13819[/ATTACH]

Trimmed and sanded flush
[ATTACH]13820[/ATTACH]

The box shown is just a sample, picture frames, flag boxes, what ever can have the splines added for just looks or to add strength to the joint. You may also cut them at angles to give a different look. Match wood, contrast wood, splines need not even be made of wood.

If there is interest I'll give out a lot more details. BTW what is shown is just a simple sketch, just gives the general idea.

Ed

I would appreciate some pics on this as you go along.

[reible]

So another day and another design update.

One thing I wanted was replaceable inserts so when the width of cut is changed or just plain wear replacement was possible. You will see that portion of the design in red. Basic size is 2" wide, 1/4" thick and more then likely made of MDF.

I've added a mini t-track to allow stop blocks. This is the track that uses 1/4-20 bolts and is 3/8" deep by 3/4" wide. It is in two pieces to accommodate the inserts. This means that the closes a bolt can get to the center-line of the jig is restricted by the width of the insert, I don't think that is an issue.

The last addition is the stop blocks. They can be positioned via the t-track. One might want a couple of styles of these depending on the project, and perhaps a provision for clamping could be in order. One could be very creative with this part of the jig.

This is the resulting sketch:

[ATTACH]13827[/ATTACH]

Ed

[reible]

At this point a couple of checks need to be done. The first is to get an estimate of the blade height/depth of cut for a series of blade diameters.

For this sort of spline cutting operation you need to have flat bottom cuts, or at least close to a flat bottom. Blades that will work well are ones with a flat grind, one example is a ripping blade. This could be a 10" blade and kerf of 1/8" (.125). This would work for a small spline and I guess you could index by an 1/8" and have a 1/4" slot, it could work and might be someones option.

The more likely option for a blade is a dado blade. I have both a wobble blade and a stacked set, for narrow cuts either would work. For a lot of people the 6" set is standard, for others the 8" set is their standard. I have seen several styles dado blades which are "yet another design" and they should also work as long as they provide the flat bottom type of cut. Width of cut would be your choice but for the design I'm not thinking of anything over 3/4".

The third type blade that might be used are flat-bottom crosscutting blades. They are limited by width but are designed to cut box-joints and as such would be the ideal blade to go with this jig.

Graphically done in sketchup is the drawing with 6", 8" and 10" blades at maximum projection. The dept of cut and length of cut are shown. I'll be using that later to determine things like, can I get a deep enough cut, will the blade ever get past the blade guard. So for now here is that drawing:

[ATTACH]13828[/ATTACH]

Ed

[dusty]

At this point a couple of checks need to be done. The first is to get an estimate of the blade height/depth of cut for a series of blade diameters.

For this sort of spline cutting operation you need to have flat bottom cuts, or at least close to a flat bottom. Blades that will work well are ones with a flat grind, one example is a ripping blade. This could be a 10" blade and kerf of 1/8" (.125). This would work for a small spline and I guess you could index by an 1/8" and have a 1/4" slot, it could work and might be someones option.

The more likely option for a blade is a dado blade. I have both a wobble blade and a stacked set, for narrow cuts either would work. For a lot of people the 6" set is standard, for others the 8" set is their standard. I have seen several styles dado blades which are "yet another design" and they should also work as long as they provide the flat bottom type of cut. Width of cut would be your choice but for the design I'm not thinking of anything over 3/4".

The third type blade that might be used are flat-bottom crosscutting blades. They are limited by width but are designed to cut box-joints and as such would be the ideal blade to go with this jig.

Graphically done in sketchup is the drawing with 6", 8" and 10" blades at maximum projection. The dept of cut and length of cut are shown. I'll be using that later to determine things like, can I get a deep enough cut, will the blade ever get past the blade guard. So for now here is that drawing:

[ATTACH]13828[/ATTACH]

Ed

I am curious and maybe too much of an amateur to understand but what sort of project do you envision that will require 2" deep splines. Even the 1 1/4" deep spline available with your 6" dado blade seems to be more than I can imagine needing.

[reible]

Hi,

When I look at this I see a potential of not have enough blade exposure with the 6" blade and perhaps some design changes will be needed to even use an 8" blade.

Since I have given you no dimension it would be pretty hard to see the problem. The base is 3/4" as are the other parts. So the very edge of the work piece is 3/4" + the "V" notch... not looking good for the 6" blade.

Anyway stay tuned for a future post where this will be addressed.

Ed

I am curious and maybe too much of an amateur to understand but what sort of project do you envision that will require 2" deep splines. Even the 1 1/4" deep spline available with your 6" dado blade seems to be more than I can imagine needing.