SS Tracksaw

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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judaspre1982
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Post by judaspre1982 »

tool72 wrote: It is easy to move until you apply down pressure, but if you like clamps we have them available, they slide into the dovetails on the underside. The underside dovetails also work with our self aligning connectors, which do a great job.
I would like more info, if possible, on the clamps. I don't see them on SS' site.
Price? Availability?

I assume they are similar to the EZ System clamps.

Anymore info would be appreciated.

Thank You for posting.

Dave
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

judaspre1982 wrote:I would like more info, if possible, on the clamps. I don't see them on SS' site.
Price? Availability?

I assume they are similar to the EZ System clamps.

Anymore info would be appreciated.

Thank You for posting.

Dave
Careful:D there!
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Sometimes I have insufficient will power and I speak out when I should not. To reduce the chances of me doing just that AGAIN, I have implemented the ignore feature.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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charlese
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Post by charlese »

My, Oh My! I've never seen such ado about a straight edge! Maybe if "they" would make it "micro adjustable" it would attract even more attention.

Here's mine - even partly aluminum:) and it is even micro adjustable! Just tap one end with a hammer!!!

P.S. got the design from a woodworking Magazine where copying was encouraged:)
[ATTACH]13879[/ATTACH]
Attachments
straight edge circle saw.jpg
straight edge circle saw.jpg (118.86 KiB) Viewed 3103 times
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
bmv2
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Post by bmv2 »

charlese wrote:My, Oh My! I've never seen such ado about a straight edge! Maybe if "they" would make it "micro adjustable" it would attract even more attention.

Here's mine - even partly aluminum:) and it is even micro adjustable! Just tap one end with a hammer!!!

P.S. got the design from a woodworking Magazine where copying was encouraged:)

Hahaha, I love that -- Has anyone decided to call and actually ask questions about all of this? I'm sure they have a customer service thing...I might do that tomorrow, seems like the stuff on SS is just what was in the flier email

As for the website thing not being up, I know plenty of small companies that lack a website, and if you get it done professionally it can cost a pretty penny...
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Your Ez2Uz rip fence looks a lot like mine but I need to incorporate an aluminum edge. Even your power cord has some distinguishing characteristics similar to mine.

I waxed my saw face and the mating surface of the guide fence but I am not sure that improved anything. In fact, I am not sure there was any need for improvement.:o:)
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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damagi
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Post by damagi »

charlese wrote:My, Oh My! I've never seen such ado about a straight edge! Maybe if "they" would make it "micro adjustable" it would attract even more attention.

Here's mine - even partly aluminum:) and it is even micro adjustable! Just tap one end with a hammer!!!

P.S. got the design from a woodworking Magazine where copying was encouraged:)
[ATTACH]13879[/ATTACH]
I like it - Lets start the comparison here.

In all cases, a higher quality blade than the one which came with the saw goes a long way. Sometimes this part is overlooked :)

The angle iron + hardboard version:
1) has two parts plus screws - lower cost ($$), easy to source parts
2) It exactly matches the cutline
3) works with any saw
4) works with any router

truetrac:

1) saw is captive on the track, ensuring that both sides of the cut are straight. unclear if riding "on top of the channel" yields significant benefits - testing needed
2) track is expandable in a way which allows tracks to be joined
3) anti-chip edge (not sure how the angle iron + hardboard version performs here)
4) no router capability announced
5) $$$
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup

JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw

-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
charlese
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Post by charlese »

damagi wrote:I like it - Lets start the comparison here.

In all cases, a higher quality blade than the one which came with the saw goes a long way. Sometimes this part is overlooked :)

The angle iron + hardboard version:
1) has two parts plus screws - lower cost ($$), easy to source parts
2) It exactly matches the cutline
3) works with any saw
4) works with any router

truetrac:

1) saw is captive on the track, ensuring that both sides of the cut are straight. unclear if riding "on top of the channel" yields significant benefits - testing needed
2) track is expandable in a way which allows tracks to be joined
3) anti-chip edge (not sure how the angle iron + hardboard version performs here)
4) no router capability announced
5) $$$

Angle iron + hardboard:
1) 1" Aluminum angle is used
2) Countersunk holes every 6" or so are drilled thru one side of the angle
3) The other side of the 1" angle is sawn off to 1/2" to allow saw to not rub on the angle.
4) After screwing the angle to the board and filing the flush on bottom, the board is sawn off using the portable hand saw. This makes the board only suitable for that one saw.
5) Small clamps are used to align the edge with the proposed cutting line.
6) After clamping (and adjusting with a hammer) simply saw off the material while pressing the saw platen against the 1/2" vertical aluminum wall.
7) Hardboard cutting edge is intact. If it gets nicked because of rough handling it will still be perfectly good - the straight sawing is guided from the aluminum angle. The hardboard cutting edge only serves to line up the cut.
8) I made an 8' straight edge and later reduced it to 5'. Easier to hang on the wall and never used the 8' length, because of reducing
the 4' length of sheet goods before the 8' length.
9) Cost - only about $4 for the aluminum angle because had hardboard scrap, drill bit, screws and file.
10) New unit would have to be made for a router, but as yet no need. Grooves and dados made with Shopsmith.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
kalynzoo
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Post by kalynzoo »

Charlese, you are indeed a scholar. An excellent use of material to create a useful device.
Gary Kalyn
Kalynzoo Productions
Woodworking
Porter Ranch/Northridge
Los Angeles, CA
judaspre1982
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Post by judaspre1982 »

charlese wrote:My, Oh My! I've never seen such ado about a straight edge! Maybe if "they" would make it "micro adjustable" it would attract even more attention.

Here's mine - even partly aluminum:) and it is even micro adjustable! Just tap one end with a hammer!!!

P.S. got the design from a woodworking Magazine where copying was encouraged:)
[ATTACH]13879[/ATTACH]
Nice Chuck.
Nick made a similar one in the Sawdust Sessions
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... lywood.htm.

I like the use of the 1" alum angle better in the one you made.
Thanks for showing us your setup.

Dave
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