SS Tracksaw

[jcraigie]

Thanks for the information. I just don't see myself getting one, for the price of it and for as little as I would use it it just doesn't seem like it's worth it to me. I'm sure that there are people who use it and it works very well for but I just don't see it and I'm really trying to. I've made a couple of comments to your reply below. Again this is strickly my opinion and it's worth what you paid for it.

This is the #1 question people have when first looking at a trac saw
1- when using a edge guide you must measure the offset between the blade and the edge of the saw plate and then factor that into the measurment of your cut. Sounds easy but many woodworkers we talk to tell us they use the edge guide to get it close then finish with a 2nd cut on the table saw. With a track saw your anti chip edge is matched to your saw and by placing the anti chip edge on your mark your dead on- it's fast, easy and accurateA simple measurement isn't that hard to make

2- elminate chip out- When cutting sheet goods we learn good side down because of tear out as the blade comes up through the wood. What happenes on a bookcase when both sides must be good? The anti chip edges that we use on the trac and the saw plate gives you a true 0 clearence insert that eliminates chipout on both sides of the blade as wellas the top side even when crosscutting oak plywood I've found that using a sharp and correct type of saw blade with some masking tape over the cut area gives me a pretty good edge. Your system may indeed be better in this instance but the cost to benefit ratio is pretty high and I can usually make it as perfect as I need it to be.

3- Narrow cuts- If anyone has tried to trim a narrow cut of off a sheet of ply you realize how difficult it is to maintain control of your saw when most of it is unsupported. Try trimming a 1/2" off the bottom of a door. With your track saw the saw is supported and guided by the trac. The easy and speed with top results is why so many pros are switching to trc saws I've cut many doors with a straight edge clamped to the door and never had a problem in the amount of time it would take you to take out and set up a track saw I would already have the door cut and rehung, it's a 5 minute.

4- Ripping dimensional lumber- Try to use an edge guide and circular saw to rip a 1"x4" in half. When ripping narrow stock with a trac saw(when the stock is narrower then the trac) simply place a 2nd board the same thickness next to the board you are cutting, place the trac on top and you are ready to cutThis is where I would use a table saw, trying to rip a 1 x 4 with a circular saw is asking for trouble (track saw not withstanding). I jsut did this earlier this week. I ripped 8 - 1 x 4's in half, it took me about 5 minutes to pull out the table saw and set it up and another 5 to 10 minutes to rip them all. It seems to me that it would again take you longer to get the track saw out and set it up than for me to cut them on a table saw. I also didn't need another board on the other side of the saw to "balance it out"

I could keep going with many more examples,but it is safe to say you will use your trac saw for much more then breaking down sheet goods, and the more you use it the more use's you will find

To me it seems like a great tool for sheet goods and if you were cutting a lot of them it would be great (so would a panel saw at that point though). But for a weekend warrior like me it seems like a lot of money for something I would use rarely. I may be wrong (been known to happen more than once) and if I get one I will indeed post it so everyone can tell me "I told you so". I truely wish you the best in your business.

[jcraigie]

I'll try to answer this question. The best one is the one that fits your needs!

In my opinion, a straight edge is a straight edge, as long as it is straight!

If a straight edge is used as a guide for sawing/routing/scoring/etc. it is a often called a saw guide.

If the saw guide has a feature that holds the saw/router/ or other tool from wandering away from the guide = it is called a tracksaw (I think )

If a woodworker uses either a straight edge or a saw guide or a track saw to mill straight lines successfully then there is none of these any better than the others. In my opinion! The best one is the one that better fits the needs of the user.

Some folks prefer to use a multi dollar tool to do what can be done with hand tools. This choice is clearly up to them.

If a contractor thinks he can save $ by using an expensive tool and thereby save customers $. He should choose the more expensive tool. If a hobby wood worker likes the expensive tool (or brand of tool), he/she should use it, if affordable.

Final thought as it applies to my shop - a straight edge is a straight edge. I have one especially made for drywall installation. You've seen my saw guide in a previous post.

I agree completely:)

[JPG]

Agreed this thread has unattractive overtones. The honest discussion regarding saw guides vs saw tracks etc. is worth reading. The over the wall verbal grenades are a distraction from the 'good' stuff.

The items other than a saw track that crept into the discussion are also a distraction.

Finally I find it illuminating the difference in 'tone' and objectivity between posts by TOOL72 and YCFDINO.

[jcraigie]

I may be the only one, and all may care less, but this thread has lost my attention. I watched both videos. One used a real saw, the other used drawings. I thought the real saw video was a REAL demonstration. I then read a message from the inventor of the drawing saw video who stated that his product is available from 4000 outlets, worldwide. I guess this results from a video that uses drawings. Who the hell cares!
If you believe that the product ShopSmith is offering, is worth your investment and you can use it, BUY IT!
This entire thread truely appears to be a competitive marketing effort to discredit the offered product. Use your own judgement and spend your dollars as you, and only you see fit. That's if you even see fit.
But gees guys, ENOUGH!!!!
Dick

Actually if you read my posts I kept asking for reasons why a track saw is better than what I have - irregardless of brand. I was looking for information. I seem to have all I'm going to get from here for now.

This thread has turned bad and if I have contributed to that I apoligize. Thank you to all who offered up usefull information. I will now follow Dusty's lead and impliment the ignore feature and move back to the more enjoyable areas of our ShopSmith forum.

[pennview]

Perhaps someone who owns one of these track system could answer a few questions for me. For background, I've used an aluminum rail and circular saw for years to reduce sheet goods to manageable size and then finish them to size on a table saw, and I'm satisfied with that approach.

But my question has to do with repeatable cuts to exactly the same size, as in wanting to size kitchen cabinet parts or such, not cut sheet goods for a sub floor. Using a rule (or storystick, or whatever) to put pencil marks on a plywood panel and then aligning an edge of a track rail would seem to work for one piece, but doing that a dozen times and expecting identical parts seems a bit of a stretch. How does this work?

Also, how is it to cross cut narrow pieces to exact size? I'm talking about identical length as in making drawer parts.

I'm not wanting to engage in sniping or rock throwing, regarding track systems. I'm just curious about how well the work.

[JPG]

Perhaps someone who owns one of these track system could answer a few questions for me. For background, I've used an aluminum rail and circular saw for years to reduce sheet goods to manageable size and then finish them to size on a table saw, and I'm satisfied with that approach.

But my question has to do with repeatable cuts to exactly the same size, as in wanting to size kitchen cabinet parts or such, not cut sheet goods for a sub floor. Using a rule (or storystick, or whatever) to put pencil marks on a plywood panel and then aligning an edge of a track rail would seem to work for one piece, but doing that a dozen times and expecting identical parts seems a bit of a stretch. How does this work? It will not work like a rip fence/cross cut stop. Each piece would have to be measured/sticked/whatever.

Also, how is it to cross cut narrow pieces to exact size? I'm talking about identical length as in making drawer parts. See previous answer, but more than one/setup if they are narrow.

I'm not wanting to engage in sniping or rock throwing, regarding track systems. I'm just curious about how well the work.

Now how well that works depends I am sure depends upon 'technique'.

[dusty]

Now how well that works depends I am sure depends upon 'technique'.

Which track system do you use?

[spicyguy2005]

Perhaps someone who owns one of these track system could answer a few questions for me. For background, I've used an aluminum rail and circular saw for years to reduce sheet goods to manageable size and then finish them to size on a table saw, and I'm satisfied with that approach.

But my question has to do with repeatable cuts to exactly the same size, as in wanting to size kitchen cabinet parts or such, not cut sheet goods for a sub floor. Using a rule (or storystick, or whatever) to put pencil marks on a plywood panel and then aligning an edge of a track rail would seem to work for one piece, but doing that a dozen times and expecting identical parts seems a bit of a stretch. How does this work?

Also, how is it to cross cut narrow pieces to exact size? I'm talking about identical length as in making drawer parts.

I'm not wanting to engage in sniping or rock throwing, regarding track systems. I'm just curious about how well the work.

I am a brand new member who just know this forum after reading about SS Tracksaw and follow the discussion on this thread.

First of all, to make it clear, I am a user and an owner of an EZ system. Just a user and an owner, with no connection with the company. I am very new to woodworking and very new user of Eurekazone EZ system, so I wouldn't feel comfortable enough to answer or make comments to your posts. Anyway, from reading at the http://www.tracksawforums.com for quite a while, I know similar problem has been raised there before. I would suggest that you post similar question there. I believe someone who is very knowledgeable and has more experience with the system will be able to give you a good answer.

[bigjohn1]

If any of you fellows really care yes all the above can be done with the EZ system with Items like the Ripsizer and the cabinet maker repeater. Like I said its not just a straight edge its mutch mutch more. and the whole reason for it being around is to get rid of the dangerous table saw whitch now can be done. There are some cuts that need to be worked on but there close.

Why you ask to get woodworking going again in schools where because of dangerous tools they have stopped a lot of programs.

One other thing you don't need a 40 dollar blade to get a good cut you can get one with a 10 dollar blade.

Not sure why some think the tone is bad here we are all adults and should be able to take it. This info you ask for is out there but take more then a one minute look at it. Hope this has cleared some things up just don't close your mind to it A straight edge is a straight edge like some have said there is mutch more to it then that. Top of the list is safety.

[tool72]

Perhaps someone who owns one of these track system could answer a few questions for me. For background, I've used an aluminum rail and circular saw for years to reduce sheet goods to manageable size and then finish them to size on a table saw, and I'm satisfied with that approach.

But my question has to do with repeatable cuts to exactly the same size, as in wanting to size kitchen cabinet parts or such, not cut sheet goods for a sub floor. Using a rule (or storystick, or whatever) to put pencil marks on a plywood panel and then aligning an edge of a track rail would seem to work for one piece, but doing that a dozen times and expecting identical parts seems a bit of a stretch. How does this work?

Also, how is it to cross cut narrow pieces to exact size? I'm talking about identical length as in making drawer parts.

I'm not wanting to engage in sniping or rock throwing, regarding track systems. I'm just curious about how well the work.

To do cabinets or bookshelves, where replicating exact cuts is required, you need two attachments; We have developed, prototyped, and tested both a square and a repeater system - we are currently waiting on the extrusion dies and other needed production items (knobs, measuring cursors) - that allow exact repeatable cuts quickly and easily.

The repeater will come in 18" sections that can be connected and extended if needed, much the same as the track itself can be. Very few repeat cuts will require anything over 36". The repeater also has a built in measuring tape and cursor, with the cursor being movable to adjust for saw kerf the first time you use it.

The two (square and repeater) can be used together, or separately as you need. Both products will be introduced later this fall, due again to the time needed to finalize dies and receive finished products.

As a footnote, if you have an entire shop full of tools, you are of course going to have a specific tool that can do any one job easier than the TrueTrac or other tracksaw - The point is that this one tool CAN do everything that a large variety of other tools can as well, but in a single package.