Now I've Done It, I'm In Over My Head

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dusty
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Now I've Done It, I'm In Over My Head

Post by dusty »

I make sawdust. I do not refinish furniture. Especially, I do not finish furniture that some one cherishes.

Unfortunately for me, that may soon not be true. I have just been harnessed with a request I could not refuse to re-glue and refinish an old rocking chair that was Grandma's.

The joints are all very loose so pulling it apart will not be difficult; EXCEPT for that one or two joints that will not pull apart easily. They always seem to exist.

Then what. How do I clean it. How do I re-glue it. What finish do I use.

I am in over my head and there is no way to escape.

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"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

First off, watch out for hidden nails at the tenon joints. Try HOT water or hot air to loosen the joints. Also mark ALL the pieces so ya can get it back together the same way. Using masking tape, mark that front turned spindle at the bottom "A" and place a tag on the seat with an "A". Mark the top of that spindle with a "B", then place a tag under the arm rest with a "B". Looks like ya have about 25 pieces there. What kind of finish does it have?:confused:

I used hide glue on 4 chairs that I re-glued recently. I used the hide glue because I NEEDED the extra time to get it glued and clamped together. As far a new finish, might go with a light colored shellac. OH and DO KNOT sand the tenons, that might make em to loose to fit right. When ya start re-gluing it, do it in stages.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I am not much use here either, but question the 'need' to refinish! Hey it is apparently an heirloom(ya finally got a shot at one:D) and as such is not supposed to look 'new'!

I would suggest(to the 'heir') that it be cleaned up(gently) and waxed. That would be more easily done when still disassembled.

Hope it is not too late to mark as Beeg suggested!:rolleyes:


P.S. 27 pieces!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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anmius
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Post by anmius »

I agree, hot water and/or hot air to loosen the glue so the joints can be pulled apart. Some of the so called "speed clamps" can also be turned around to push a joint apart.

As far as finish, if it is to become a high valued antique, a new finish will diminish the value by a factor of two. JPG's advice to just clean it up (with a mild detergent) and apply a thin coat of furniture wax (like our favorite - Johnson's) is your best bet.

"In my humble opinion." :D
________________________________________________________________________________________________
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.

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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I have done some dis-assembly but not enough to cause confusion.

I have no idea on finish. I hope she will be satisfied with a wide on oil or wax. I really dislike the finishing process.

I reassembled a number of chairs and have experienced the confusion brought by not keeping track of where the parts belong.

I know that I have some brads in two of the tenons (back rest). Most all of the other parts can be moved (at least slightly). I expect it to almost dis-assemble it self. The glue joints are really dead.

I have found two screw holes with no screws but I thing them have been snapped off. I feel metal, with a scratch awl, in the screw holes but see nothing.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

dusty wrote:I have no idea on finish. I hope she will be satisfied with a wide on oil or wax.
I have found two screw holes with no screws but I thing them have been snapped off. I feel metal, with a scratch awl, in the screw holes but see nothing.
Dusty, see if denatured alcohol will remove/soften the finish under the seat. I'd STILL go with the shellac finish. Or ya wood have to REMOVE all the existing finish.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

My wife just discovered that I had begun working on the chair. Her first reaction was concern about me dismantling it.

Once convinced that all of the parts were so loose, she agreed that that had to be done.

Her desire is that all I do is oil and/or wax. She does not want to sand or refinish.

What have I gotten myself into???
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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dan1999
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Dusty

Post by dan1999 »

First off as was explained in previous posts make sure that you label everything, clean off the tenons with acetone you have to absolutely get off all the old glue try not to remove any wood. If the chair looks decent and you don't want to strip then don't. a wax finish over the top of what exists is ok as long as you don't have flaking. When putting it back together I would under no circumstances use hide glue this is very time sensitive in getting it back together and the temperature must be just right, not for a person with little or no experience with this stuff.
Personally after having fixed a number of chairs over the years I think that 2 part epoxy is a much better adhesive, if you take a version that has a longer drying time it is better because it gives you the time to put all your clamps in place to ensure that everything is where you want it and to make any adjustments as needed. Don't be afraid of this project it is not really difficult you have the knowledge!!

PS Make sure that you get all the brad nails out of the tenons before you separate the pieces I generally use a 1 pound dead mallet(lead filled)
Mark V 520,Mark V 510(2),Mark V 500(2) Dust Collector(2), Jointer(2), bandsaw(2), jigsaw, beltsander, biscuit joiner(2) Lathe Duplicator, RingMaster, Pro planer
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

dan1999 wrote:When putting it back together I would under no circumstances use hide glue this is very time sensitive in getting it back together and the temperature must be just right, not for a person with little or no experience with this stuff.

I beg to differ on that statement. OR maybe I should clarify LIQUID hide glue in a bottle, KNOT the flakes.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote: . . .

What have I gotten myself into???
You have been married to her for how long and you are just now asking that question?;)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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