another idler question.

dutchman52 · Post by **dutchman52** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 1:46 pm

I have looked and read all of the thread about the my idler problem.. I would like help on how to move the eccentric into a position to view the set screw, and if what the set screw twist is (10/32..... etc).

Appreciate the help from any and all.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Aug 23, 2011 8:15 pm

See second pix

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showpos ... ostcount=1

5/32 socket in 5/16-18 set screw.

dutchman52 · Post by **dutchman52** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 12:49 pm

thanks for the quick reply. I have the original manual on this mark 5. I have tried emailing the manf, but I haven't been able to find this setscrew in dallas.
because it's tapered. Any ideas, I may just have to machine a new one.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 11:16 pm

dutchman52 wrote:thanks for the quick reply. I have the original manual on this mark 5. I have tried emailing the manf, but I haven't been able to find this setscrew in dallas.
because it's tapered. Any ideas, I may just have to machine a new one.

As in 'pointed'?
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=139367&Submit=Find+Item

wiredone · Post by **wiredone** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:27 am

dutchman52 wrote:thanks for the quick reply. I have the original manual on this mark 5. I have tried emailing the manf, but I haven't been able to find this setscrew in dallas.
because it's tapered. Any ideas, I may just have to machine a new one.

I noticed that my 1984 model had no set screw when I pulled it down for a bearing refresh.
So, last night as I was assembling it I very easily modified a cup style set screw to do the job.
piece of 5/32 allen wrench chucked into a power drill, stick cup style set screw on, take to bench grinder, spin and grind at the same time and you get a nice point that is centered.
Make sure it is short enough to allow the eccentric to rotate inside the casting for belt adjustment.
And don't over tighten, just snug.
You don't want to distort the bearing.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:27 am

wiredone wrote:I noticed that my 1984 model had no set screw when I pulled it down for a bearing refresh.
So, last night as I was assembling it I very easily modified a cup style set screw to do the job.
piece of 5/32 allen wrench chucked into a power drill, stick cup style set screw on, take to bench grinder, spin and grind at the same time and you get a nice point that is centered.
Make sure it is short enough to allow the eccentric to rotate inside the casting for belt adjustment.
And don't over tighten, just snug.
You don't want to distort the bearing.

For all eccentric bushings with a set screw, I use a knurled cup point set screw from http://www.mcmaster.com/#knurled-cup-po ... ws/=dsvweb.

I find a pointed set screw can cause distortion of the Idler Shaft bearing outter race and cause a failure of the bearing. I agree, do not overtighten this set screw.

I always replace the eccentric bushing flat washer (103A) with a #8 body washer to prevent the eccentric bushing & Idler Shaft bearing from being pushed out of the headstock when changing speeds. This is needed for the eccentric bushing without a set screw.

wiredone · Post by **wiredone** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:30 am

billmayo wrote: I find a pointed set screw can cause distortion of the Idler Shaft bearing outter race and cause a failure of the bearing. I agree, do not overtighten this set screw.

I always replace the eccentric bushing flat washer (103A) with a #8 body washer to prevent the eccentric bushing & Idler Shaft bearing from being pushed out of the headstock when changing speeds. This is needed for the eccentric bushing without a set screw.

that explains why I had no set screw, NOW I have both!
Never can be too cautious I guess.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 3:22 pm

Tis absolutely true that excessive tightening is a no-no. However it does need to be tight enough to prevent the bearing from rotating inside the eccentric bushing. The split bushing will prevent that, but not all bushings are 'split'. The setscrew and groove in the bearing hold the bearing from sliding in/out....

i.e. It needs to be there with this older design idler shaft. Never seen a new version in hand, so I do not know its relevance in that situation.

wiredone · Post by **wiredone** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:59 pm

wiredone wrote:that explains why I had no set screw, NOW I have both!
Never can be too cautious I guess.

Well, I hate to admit it, but I found the missing setscrew today.
I guess old age is catching up. I dismantled this puppy a month ago, but until I FOUND IT UNDER THE MACHINE, don't remember pulling the screw out. Oh well.
So now I have an extra.
hey DUTCHMAN52, still need one?
I'll mail it to you, from one cheesehead to another!
R.VanVliet

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another idler question.

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