Glue for a bathroom counter

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derekdarling
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Glue for a bathroom counter

Post by derekdarling »

HI all, I recently acquired some 3" X 4" mahogany pieces, 5' or so long. The local reno place got several skids: I think they were used for shipping purposes under heavy machinery.

I want to rip and mill them to 1 1/2" X 2" and glue up a counter top for a bathroom vanity. I also plan to resaw some of this wood to veneer the face frame to match. Doors will be re-faced with some mildly spalted maple (I have a few pieces 3" wide and 2' X 4', so I can resaw enough to reface the doors and drawer fronts).

I plan to finish the top in some sort of marine-grade varnish (it is, after all, in a bathroom), and I was wondering about what to use to glue the pieces together. Aliphatic resin? Hide glue? Yellow carpenters' glue (as opposed to white), epoxy?

Any thoughts?

Derek
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Surrey, B.C. Canada
10ERs, other stuff, you know.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

How about using Titebond III? I WOOD KNOT use hide glue in a bathroom.
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

I agree with Beeg. The Titebond III is the way to go. It is "waterproof" as opposed to "water resistant"
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dan1999
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Glue

Post by dan1999 »

Without a doubt Titebond III, love that stuff for moisture resistance.
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derekdarling
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thnx

Post by derekdarling »

Thanks all. I'm also considering a finish that will shed water that will inevitably spill, as well as highlihgt the more decorative effects. Someting in the varnish line. Any thoughts?

I'm going to post some pics of the 'before' pile of materials, and the 'after' job.

Derek
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Polyurethane.
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pennview
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Post by pennview »

Spar Varnish would be another good choice.
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

Polyurethane!!!! Tough stuff.
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

You can also use envirotex lite. I have used this stuff and it's great. Make sure you mix a and b perfectly and give it a full 24 hours before you touch it. Prep work is everything but the end product is worth it.
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derekdarling
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Counter

Post by derekdarling »

Great ideas... thanks all. I plan to start miling the wood tomorrow. Joint two sides square, then rip to size on the 10ER, and joint the cut side and last side. Then think about glue-up. I don't have any pipe clamps, so I was thinking about making a square out of 2X4's, and using sliding wedges along one side. Works for instrument tops, so I will just scale it up, and no pipe clamps to buy/acquire/borrow!

Derek in Vancouver
Derek Darling
Surrey, B.C. Canada
10ERs, other stuff, you know.
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