Which Faceplate is Best?

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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jondann
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Which Faceplate is Best?

Post by jondann »

I have three types of 3 3/4" faceplates: aluminum, cast iron, and steel. All are Shopsmith. Which is the best, and why?

Same thing with sanding discs. I have both aluminum and steel for my Mark V500. Which discs should I keep and which can I get rid of.
Jon in southern Maryland
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

jondann wrote:I have three types of 3 3/4" faceplates: aluminum, cast iron, and steel. All are Shopsmith. Which is the best, and why?

Same thing with sanding discs. I have both aluminum and steel for my Mark V500. Which discs should I keep and which can I get rid of.
It is just not in my being. I can not justify telling you to "get rid of" anything. Keep it. I do. Unless you find someone who really needs it.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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jondann
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Post by jondann »

My problem is that I've been keeping everything and find it hard to work with all the stored stuff takingup so much room. Just finished tearing down/cleaning/rebuilding my second Mark V, and need to clear enough room to use it! Four 3.75" faceplates are too much, as are nine sanding discs. I just wondered whether to keep steel, iron, or aluminum. Does turning an aluminum faceplate (if I miss the wood) dull the chisel very fast?
Jon in southern Maryland
pennview
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Post by pennview »

Check them for being square to the spindle when mounted and keep whichever one is square. If they're all square you can flip a coin. I expect that the use of different materials in their construction was simply a matter of cost or availability.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Sanding disks:

Keep all that are not warped(run true). Tis nice to not have to change paper(a disc with each type/grit is advantageous)

Keep a steel one that is possibly warped for potential use as an indexing wheel.

There is no advantage to the steel sanding disks other than the ease of also using the lower saw guard as a dust collector.(505,510,520)

FWIW a warped disk works just as well when using it to hand sand small parts and a flat surface is desired.

I would keep all nine!;)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

As Art has noted, whatever you keep should be square, sanding discs and faceplates. As far as the sanding discs I would keep at least three (maybe up to 5). Three for the three basic grits. Four would have the sharpening paper on it and five would have the Velcro adapter disc for hook and loop paper. Regarding the sanding discs and assuming that they are all square (no wobble), I would keep any of the steel ones that have the longer hub (work with the guards on the 510/520/7). Then, I would keep the regular steel discs because they can be upgraded to the longer hub. Lastly, would be the aluminum.

Call me old school, but I prefer the cast iron faceplate, followed by the steel faceplates.

Getting rid of stuff is hard.............;)
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

jondann wrote:I have three types of 3 3/4" faceplates: aluminum, cast iron, and steel. All are Shopsmith. Which is the best, and why?
Keep the cast iron one because it's heavier.
BUT I'd keep all three.

Same thing with sanding discs. I have both aluminum and steel for my Mark V500. Which discs should I keep and which can I get rid of. Keep the steel one. But I'd keep em all. Ya can put different grits on each one.

But like Dusty said, KEEP EM. I wood.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

Keep them, make a rack to hold them, and put the various grits on them. Nothing beAts just sliding a new disk on with the grit you need.
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

"GET RID OF" ???? :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Egads what an alien concept!!!


.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

robinson46176 wrote:"GET RID OF" ???? :eek: :eek: :eek:
Egads what an alien concept!!!


.

Hey! You're right! We have been invaded by 'space' freaks!:D
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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