Power Coupler Strip-Out

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randythewoodchuck
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Power Coupler Strip-Out

Post by randythewoodchuck »

I have stripped out the "threads" of 2 power couplers, at the end that connects to the headstock, in the last 6 months or so. I've a 500. I've owned it for a couple of years but really only used it for the last year or so. Is this to be expected or am I doing something wrong?
-Randy
mbcabinetmaker
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Post by mbcabinetmaker »

What SPT are you using? It could have a bad bearing or some problem causing the coupler to strip.
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Mark

2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

I'd say "something" is wrong with this picture. Are you talking about part# 503574? Or the spindle hub?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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dusty
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Power Coupler Strip-Out

Post by dusty »

FWIW, I just discarded one of my original power couplers. That would make it about 15 years old. Based on that, I would say you either have something wrong or maybe something is getting on the plastic in the coupler that has made it brittle.

Just guessing.

I'll be watching this for the feedback that will come from it.

Hope you have a replacement so that you can continue to make saw dust.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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billmayo
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Power Coupler Strip-Out

Post by billmayo »

randythewoodchuck wrote:I have stripped out the "threads" of 2 power couplers, at the end that connects to the headstock, in the last 6 months or so. I've a 500. I've owned it for a couple of years but really only used it for the last year or so. Is this to be expected or am I doing something wrong?
-Randy
I find that the headstock hub and the SPT hub are not perfectly aligned when this happens. I move the headstock hub againest the SPT hub and adjust the SPT mount and/or tubes until all 3 axes (X, Y & Z) mate snugly.

When I was using the bandsaw to cut metal, I was forced to go to a LoveJoy Spider 5/8" ID coupler. I got mine from Grainger. http://www.grainger.com

The rubber spider shown is the most expensive one, they make cheaper ones.
A complete coupler requires two bodies and one insert(spider). This coupler requires excellant alignment too.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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thainglo
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Post by thainglo »

billmayo wrote:When I was using the bandsaw to cut metal, I was forced to go to a LoveJoy Spider 5/8" ID coupler. I got mine from Grainger. http://www.grainger.com

The rubber spider shown is the most expensive one, they make cheaper ones.
A complete coupler requires two bodies and one insert(spider). This coupler requires excellant alignment too.
Bill - I'd sure like to know more about the coupling setup you use. Do you remember the part numbers and have any pictures of the setup? I've been having the exact same issue.

Thanks!
Matt
Lost count, over a dozen rebuilt/repaired/restored
Personal equipment: 510 made in 1993, belt sander, jig saw, band saw, planer and jointer

Matt in GA
regnar
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Post by regnar »

I have used the Lovejoy couplers as well. They work out nice but I often loose the spider. Cheapest price that I have found is at use-enco.com

I use the series L050 5/8 bore Hubs . Enco's Part# 990-4047
And I use the Buna-N Spider. Its a softer rubber meant for jars and soft starts.
Enco's Part #990-4042

You can see all the sizes on page 1034 of their catalog. Your looking at about 7.85 + S/H for a coupling.
"Sua Sponte"
gregf
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Post by gregf »

Those couplers are interesting. I've not come across them before.
Good to know about, thanks!
Richwood, OH
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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

billmayo wrote:I find that the headstock hub and the SPT hub are not perfectly aligned when this happens. I move the headstock hub againest the SPT hub and adjust the SPT mount and/or tubes until all 3 axes (X, Y & Z) mate snugly.

When I was using the bandsaw to cut metal, I was forced to go to a LoveJoy Spider 5/8" ID coupler. I got mine from Grainger. http://www.grainger.com

The rubber spider shown is the most expensive one, they make cheaper ones.
A complete coupler requires two bodies and one insert(spider). This coupler requires excellant alignment too.

I went to the grainer site and could not figure out how this coupler actually works or what I need to buy can you provide additional details?
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
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michaeltoc
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Post by michaeltoc »

paulmcohen wrote:I went to the grainer site and could not figure out how this coupler actually works or what I need to buy can you provide additional details?
You need 2 coupler bodies and one spider:

4X177 - 5/8" bore (headstock and most SPT)
4X176 - 1/2" bore (for some SPT)
1X409 - Spider

Mount the coupler bodies on the shafts (replacing the drive hubs). Fit the spider in-between the "teeth" and slide the headstock to mate the two couplers.

Be sure to check the shaft diameter on the SPT's - some (like the jigsaw) are 1/2" diameter. Purchase additional coupler bodies to mount on each SPT you have, plus an additional one to mount on the lower drive hub.

I have wanting to try this for some time, but I have some concerns with the PowerPro. The PowerPro may require a "zero backlash" coupling.
Michael

Mark V Model 500 (1985) upgraded to 520 (2009) and PowerPro (2011); Bandsaw, Jointer, Jigsaw, Planer.
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