Shopsmith Forums

pennview wrote:Just a though, but perhaps you could fit an appropriately sized bolt instead of the threaded pin. Then you could fill the threads of the pivoting portion of the bolt with JB Weld so that it wouldn't score or wear the mating part. If the bolt head would be a problem, you could hack saw it off and cut a slot in the end so that you could use a screw driver for installation.

After several emils from shopsmith telling me I had to buy the tube and bar assy, I took thje broken pin to the local implement dealer. He thought of using a 3/8" bolt with a 3/8" to 1/2" bushing. Worked like a champ except I think I couldn't completely tighten the bold because it prevented the trunion from rotating. It would be better to have abushing slightly longer that the width of the trunion so that the bold would be snug. I could possibly just use some locktight to keep it from tightening as the table is rotated.

On a side note, I have been thinking of ungrading my 510, but I am rethinkinbg it now. For a pin that is easily removable not to be available without purchasing a $150 assemby is just rediculous. What other problems will happen down the road with the same sort of result? In addition, shopsmith reps were not that friendly in trying to get me help.

bduemig wrote:After several emils from shopsmith telling me I had to buy the tube and bar assy, I took thje broken pin to the local implement dealer. He thought of using a 3/8" bolt with a 3/8" to 1/2" bushing. Worked like a champ except I think I couldn't completely tighten the bold because it prevented the trunion from rotating. It would be better to have abushing slightly longer that the width of the trunion so that the bold would be snug. I could possibly just use some locktight to keep it from tightening as the table is rotated.

On a side note, I have been thinking of ungrading my 510, but I am rethinkinbg it now. For a pin that is easily removable not to be available without purchasing a $150 assemby is just rediculous. What other problems will happen down the road with the same sort of result? In addition, shopsmith reps were not that friendly in trying to get me help.

I am pleased to hear that you have at least a temporary solution. I was doubting that the broken part was screwed in and not pressed. I could not ascertain that without potentially destructive analysis.

I understand your frustration but I hasten to say "you need to speak with someone else". You say "shopsmith reps". Has there been more than one.

I must also reiterate someone else's question. How did that trunnion pin get broken. It looks like a pretty sturdy part to me.

dusty wrote:I am pleased to hear that you have at least a temporary solution. I was doubting that the broken part was screwed in and not pressed. I could not ascertain that without potentially destructive analysis.

My repair works, but I am thinking about purchasing a shoulder bolt and cutting off the head, although it soesn't seem to matter if the head is ojn or off. It doesn't seem to be in a place that would interfere with anything.

I understand your frustration but I hasten to say "you need to speak with someone else". You say "shopsmith reps". Has there been more than one.

I must also reiterate someone else's question. How did that trunnion pin get broken. It looks like a pretty sturdy part to me.

I am frustrated, but not as much as I was before (sorry for the outburst). It just seems wrong that a simple removable pin would not be availalbe seperrate from the unit.

My repair works, but I am thinking about purchasing a shoulder bolt and cutting off the head, although it doesn't seem to matter if the head is on or off. It doesn't seem to be in a place that would interfere with anything.


I am not sure how it broke or when it broke. I went to align the table at 45 degrees and noticed the stop bolt on the front of the table was 1/2" from the table stop. Then I grabbed the table and the trunion moved. It doesn't seem to me to be a place of much stress, so I am wondering if I dropped the table somewhere along the line.

You mentioned not being able to tighten the bolt. In this case, I'd use some permanent Loctite to keep that bolt in place. You don't want that thing vibrating loose while you're sawing something.

pennview wrote:You mentioned not being able to tighten the bolt. In this case, I'd use some permanent Loctite to keep that bolt in place. You don't want that thing vibrating loose while you're sawing something.

Thanks for the tip. There was locktight on the threads when I took it apart.

dusty wrote: Having said that, I better go look at the trunnion. I did not realize that there was a removable pin for the trunnion to swivel on. I thought it was cast in place.

Now I'm totally confused. Are we all talking the same part for the same model?

When I recently removed my rear trunnion to re-drill it for larger clearance holes in the bolts that attach to the table, the pivot pin just slipped out nice and easy when I removed the trunnion. It wasn't sheared off and it wasn't threaded, IIRC. I assumed it was designed as a loose piece that spun freely in the casting of the table bar and that the trunnion spun freely around the pin. I assumed the pin was captured (held in place) in the table bar by the trunnion casting when the trunnion was attached to the table.

When I reassembled my trunnions, I slipped the pin back into position and have had no problems or complaints. The table is entirely stable. Can someone post a photo of the pin?

Al

algale wrote:Now I'm totally confused. Are we all talking the same part for the same model?

When I recently removed my rear trunnion to re-drill it for larger clearance holes in the bolts that attach to the table, the pivot pin just slipped out nice and easy when I removed the trunnion. It wasn't sheared off and it wasn't threaded, IIRC. I assumed it was designed as a loose piece that spun freely in the casting of the table bar and that the trunnion spun freely around the pin. I assumed the pin was captured (held in place) in the table bar by the trunnion casting when the trunnion was attached to the table.

When I reassembled my trunnions, I slipped the pin back into position and have had no problems or complaints. The table is entirely stable. Can someone post a photo of the pin?

Al

I have a 510. The trunions rotate on a 1/2" pivot pin which is threaded into the upper end of the tube and bar assembly. I can take a picture of the borken pin and post it when I get home.

Is this what we have been discussing? NOPE - Sorry: I just got the post stating that the pin is 1/2". These are 3/8".

[ATTACH]16664[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16665[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16666[/ATTACH]

If not, can anyone tell me what this is? I have two and don't know where they came from.

Those look like the pins that screw onto the top of the drum/shaper insert.