Man you guys rock.
So long as we're at it, what would be the way to attach something like this:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CMG3C.html
to the motor? I can't afford the shopsmith's nova chuck at ~$200...
Quick Help: Buying Used 10-ER Model
Moderator: admin
You would need this Penn State adapter -- http://www.pennstateind.com/store/L5818.html
Art in Western Pennsylvania
From the Pennsylvania man himself! Thanks. I probably should've spotted that!
If you guys can recommend any other 4 or 2 jaw, self-centering chucks (I'm removing 2 of the jaws anyways) that are cheap (under $100 or even lower) but still great, I'd be much obliged. The square-faced ones would probably be ideal, but the round ones like the Pennstate chuck would work too. I've looked around a decent amount but am curious to see if you guys have any specific recommendations.
If you guys can recommend any other 4 or 2 jaw, self-centering chucks (I'm removing 2 of the jaws anyways) that are cheap (under $100 or even lower) but still great, I'd be much obliged. The square-faced ones would probably be ideal, but the round ones like the Pennstate chuck would work too. I've looked around a decent amount but am curious to see if you guys have any specific recommendations.
Here's one for ya.
http://www.novatoolsusa.com/RECONDITION ... 3055-R.htm
http://www.novatoolsusa.com/RECONDITION ... 3055-R.htm
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
If you do a bit of looking around you might find that you can get a Nova G3 a bit cheaper. A reconditioned one as shown here:
http://www.novatoolsusa.com/RECONDITION ... 8202-R.htm
You would need the adapter like this one:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200576 ... nsert.aspx
This would get you in at $112 plus shipping. Then you can pick what jaw you might need and add them as time goes by.
Without seeing what other items are coming with the 10ER I'd say it is likely that you should set aside a couple to several $100 for missing parts and other things you will want to get before you even get started. (One safety item to make sure you have is the pulley guard.) You will also very likely want a live center (for the tailstock). Also think about some way of sharpening the lathe tools, you can't turn with dull tools. Woodworking is not a cheap hobby.
Ed
http://www.novatoolsusa.com/RECONDITION ... 8202-R.htm
You would need the adapter like this one:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200576 ... nsert.aspx
This would get you in at $112 plus shipping. Then you can pick what jaw you might need and add them as time goes by.
Without seeing what other items are coming with the 10ER I'd say it is likely that you should set aside a couple to several $100 for missing parts and other things you will want to get before you even get started. (One safety item to make sure you have is the pulley guard.) You will also very likely want a live center (for the tailstock). Also think about some way of sharpening the lathe tools, you can't turn with dull tools. Woodworking is not a cheap hobby.
Ed
aldenw wrote:Man you guys rock.
So long as we're at it, what would be the way to attach something like this:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CMG3C.html
to the motor? I can't afford the shopsmith's nova chuck at ~$200...
Well, if there's one thing I've learned in life, it's that no hobby is cheap once you get into it.
My one concern about the Nova is that the jaws are smooth. I'm wondering if a hard, irregular wood like Briar will want to slip out.
Would I see any advantage with the Nova over the pennstate chuck? With either chuck, I'm considering replacing the larger jaws with home-brewed wooden ones to get just what I need and save some cash. The pennstate comes with 2 other pairs of jaws for cheaper, so that's pulling me in that direction.
As far as sharpening goes, I'll figure something out... Maybe my dremel can handle it.
My one concern about the Nova is that the jaws are smooth. I'm wondering if a hard, irregular wood like Briar will want to slip out.
Would I see any advantage with the Nova over the pennstate chuck? With either chuck, I'm considering replacing the larger jaws with home-brewed wooden ones to get just what I need and save some cash. The pennstate comes with 2 other pairs of jaws for cheaper, so that's pulling me in that direction.
As far as sharpening goes, I'll figure something out... Maybe my dremel can handle it.
The Nova Chucks really are a better fit on the Shopsmith than that Penn State chuck you referenced earlier because the latter extends further out from the spindle than the Nova models. This has to do with the adapter. On the Nova, the adapter is an insert that fits mainly inside the chuck. On the Penn State model the adapter hangs out of the back of the chuck.
Now if all you're doing is light turning that shouldn't matter much. Then again there are those accessory jaws that come with the Penn State model.
Something else to consider is if down the road you want to change lathes, the Nova models have a large number of adapters to fit virtually all lathes, so all you need is a new adapter.
Now if all you're doing is light turning that shouldn't matter much. Then again there are those accessory jaws that come with the Penn State model.
Something else to consider is if down the road you want to change lathes, the Nova models have a large number of adapters to fit virtually all lathes, so all you need is a new adapter.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
If you do use this adapter I have a fix for it. They use a metric set-screw with the wrong fit and I had very poor results with that adapter until I re-drilled/tapped the adapter to match the flats on the shopsmith spindle and changed the thread to 5/16-18.pennview wrote:You would need this Penn State adapter -- http://www.pennstateind.com/store/L5818.html
There is another version of this adapter which I have seen but do not own, it from reports I've herd was done right and well costs more.... You might want to check that part out before deciding.
All in all I am happier with the Nova G3 chuck mounting system which has the adapter mount inside the chuck then hanging out on the the adapter as in the case of the penn state adapter.
Ed
That's really good to know. I don't wanna mess around with any redrilling/tapping. The nova sounds like a more solid piece of equipment.
Do you think home-made, wooden jaws would be a workable solution?
As seen here:
http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/ ... wChuck.htm
I'm a little worried that Nova g3 might be a tad small for my needs. But whatever I buy, I want to make sure it's a solid piece of equipment. I see a lot of talk about the Oneway chucks, but they're just too expensive for me.
Do you think home-made, wooden jaws would be a workable solution?
As seen here:
http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/ ... wChuck.htm
I'm a little worried that Nova g3 might be a tad small for my needs. But whatever I buy, I want to make sure it's a solid piece of equipment. I see a lot of talk about the Oneway chucks, but they're just too expensive for me.
How BIG are your turnings go to be?aldenw wrote: I'm a little worried that Nova g3 might be a tad small for my needs.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.
Bob
.
.
Bob