Shopsmith Forums

camerio wrote:You can always find a used door very cheap. Today, most places have used market or demolition outfit that sells second hand doors with the frame ... and sometimes those old doors are easy to refinish and are sturdier than new ones and could be in your budget ...
Just measure and know your prices from shopping around even on the internet.

Thanks for the tip on the used doors. Most of the used doors I have come across tend to be panel doors and doors that are too narrow. I know from experience those panels don't hold up to a foot very well. I do have one more place to check to be sure but I have a feeling I will end up making a door in the end.

dusty wrote:Not if it is made from laminated 2x4s and the hinges are put on right with screws that go well into the casement. Don't use your shoulder to ram the door!!

Okay to clarify, I'm talking about the door jamb where ya have holes drilled to accept the dead bolt. All that will happen to the door is it will be left with a scuff mark on it. The frame will be split out.

beeg wrote:Okay to clarify, I'm talking about the door jamb where ya have holes drilled to accept the dead bolt. All that will happen to the door is it will be left with a scuff mark on it. The frame will be split out.

You are absolutely correct in a standard installation. I was focused on the hinge side of the door.

jere wrote:Hi my grandfather recently gave me his 82 ss. My fist project is to make a new burglar proof door to secure the ss in the garage. The old door is a rotting mess, and big box doors give me the same uneasy feeling of security as the old door. I don't have much spare cash on hand for those doors either. I do however have a pile of 2x4 taking up space. So I have been thinking about using those. Does anyone have any design suggestions? It doesn't need to be pretty just tough.

For a strong door from 2x4s I would drill holes in each of the boards at so you could feed heavy pieces of all-thread through the boards to tie them all together at 3 or 4 locations.

For example, if it was me, I would mark the boards all at once while clamped together. For 3/8" all-thread, I would use drill press with 7/16" bit and use the fence to center the 2x4's edge. Then slide each board along the fence putting a hole at each mark. Then for the boards that will be on the outside edges, add counter-bores for the nuts and flat washers. I would time a dry setup and then glue with a glue that has adequate working time.

These ideas are from a newbie and I would not be surprised if the door still needed a diagonal cross-brace or turnbuckle to keep it from sagging. Maybe someone will have better ideas to help your design along.

saminmn wrote:For a strong door from 2x4s I would drill holes in each of the boards at so you could feed heavy pieces of all-thread through the boards to tie them all together at 3 or 4 locations.

For example, if it was me, I would mark the boards all at once while clamped together. For 3/8" all-thread, I would use drill press with 7/16" bit and use the fence to center the 2x4's edge. Then slide each board along the fence putting a hole at each mark. Then for the boards that will be on the outside edges, add counter-bores for the nuts and flat washers. I would time a dry setup and then glue with a glue that has adequate working time.

These ideas are from a newbie and I would not be surprised if the door still needed a diagonal cross-brace or turnbuckle to keep it from sagging. Maybe someone will have better ideas to help your design along.

I really like that idea and I think I have some of that threaded rod in the garage.

Best security I've seen for mounting the door ignored the hinges and latch, and set bolts into the top and bottom. Walls are weak, flooring is not, ceilings vary (so aim into the joists).

Then after a few failed kicks, you kick in through the wall beside the door.

foxtrapper wrote:Best security I've seen for mounting the door ignored the hinges and latch, and set bolts into the top and bottom. Walls are weak, flooring is not, ceilings vary (so aim into the joists).

Then after a few failed kicks, you kick in through the wall beside the door.

Sooooo, do you recommend brick walls?:D

JPG40504 wrote:Sooooo, do you recommend brick walls?:D

If it's a real brick wall. Many today are actually a thin brick facing laid against an underlayment. A little stronger than vinyl siding, but still very kickable.

foxtrapper wrote:If it's a real brick wall. Many today are actually a thin brick facing laid against an underlayment. A little stronger than vinyl siding, but still very kickable.

I did say brick wall, not brick veneer.

BTW loose bricks can be pried out(as I well know;))! All three layers if necessary.

You know... My Daddy always told me that doors, windows and locks will keep an honest man honest but, if someone wants in they will find a way. A good solid door will keep less honest people honest, but crooks are crooks. Best of luck to you.