Shopsmith Forums

I have an A Head stock, but I don't drop the motor to lubricate.

Here is what I do.
Set in drill press mode
Unscrew belt cover, slide up the way tubes, and clamp out of the way.

Inspect everything while I'm in there and vac sawdust/wipe clean or whatever,

I can easily lube the motor spindle,

I lube the idler spindle using 3 in 1 oil with the handy extendable flexible spout.

I then manually run the speed up and down to work the oil onto the shafts to makes sure every thing is lubed add then a few extra drops and let it sit overnight.

The next day, run the motor and run the speed up and down a couple time to make sure everything is happy, replace the cover and back to work.

I do this about once a month (or earlier if I've been using my machine a lot)

I've never felt a need to drop the motor just to lube the idler shaft.

Am I missing something??

I be curious how you get the oil to the idler shaft/control sheave from that position.

I'll take photos next time I have it up for lubrication. Probably in a few weeks, shop time has been severely curtailed due to Marching Band Season being in high gear (Just 3 more shows this year) and my weekends are spent doing band stuff or routine chores.

i am sorry if i am ignorant, but on my greenie with no access panel, where DO i put the oil since there is no oil hole that i can see. (i get i need to drop the pan, but still have no idea what to do next. thank you.

I have mentioned this before but I don't have an early headstock that I am willing to modify at this time.

I have attached a photo of a stainless steel inspection port for marine application that might be a real easy solution. There are a host of types of ports in metal or plastic and prices across the board.

Were I to use this one, recognizing the area it would mount is not 100% flat, I would mount it with auto masking tape on the back side, then fill the gaps with JB Weld to fashion what would appear to have been a cast stand-off for it, then touch up the paint accordingly.

It would be simple, and solve the problem. One could still affix the logo plate if desired and have a finished inspection port.

This 316 stainless steel highly polished inspection port includes a deck ring and cap. The cap is supplied with an o ring to ensure a watertight seal.

Specifications

I.D: 75mm (3")
Flange O.D: 119mm (4-11/16")
Cut Out Hole Size: 85mm (3-3/8")

Thoughts?

I did say I would post photos. Sorry it's taken so long. (5 years! Really?)

I have an A head stock and I don't have an inspection hole. I really don't want to drill or cut on my headstock.

Here is what I do.
Set in drill press mode
Unscrew belt cover,
NOTE: I upgraded the screws on mine to 5/32 allen head socket cap screws.
The original threads were stripping out and I had to do something. So I replaced with the socket screws and used some JB weld to fasten corresponding nuts to the inside of the headstock.
now I can use my magic tool for removing the screws. slide up the way tubes, and clamp out of the way. Inspect everything while I'm in there and vac sawdust/wipe clean or whatever,

I can easily lube the motor spindle,

I insert a screw driver into the spring and spread it apart in several locations.

I lube the idler spindle using 3 in 1 oil with the handy extendable flexible spout. The oil just has to get on to the shaft it does not have to go in some magic hole.

I put the tip of the oiler between the sheaves and shoot some oil onto the shaft. Spin it a bit and put some more on a different part of the shaft.
I then manually run the speed up and down to work the oil onto the shafts to make sure every thing is lubed add then a few extra drops and let it sit overnight.

The next day, run the motor and run the speed up and down a couple time to make sure everything is happy, replace the cover and back to work.


Just the way I do it for a quick lube.

I do sometimes drop the motor. if more thorough cleaning is required. In which case I reverse the table on the carriage put some cardboard down loosen the screws and fold the motor pan down onto the table.

When oiling the floating sheave, the oil Needs to get between the motor shaft and the sheave, not on the outside of the sheave Hub.