10ER DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY removal

fredsheldon · Post by **fredsheldon** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:44 pm

So I just drive the dowel against the bearing face as close to the outer edge as I can get and it should pop out the rear of the casing assuming I have the set screw on the back side removed

I'll give it a try tonight.

Thanks.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:50 pm

fredsheldon wrote:So I just drive the dowel against the bearing face as close to the outer edge as I can get and it should pop out the rear of the casing assuming I have the set screw on the back side removed I'll give it a try tonight.

Thanks.

You will be driving against the shaft. Since the bearings are being replaced, race damage is not a concern.

fredsheldon · Post by **fredsheldon** » Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:19 pm

Life is good. I was able to drive the drive shaft assembly out of the housing without breaking something and even pulled the bearings off the shaft. Constructed and inserted one of the way tubes in a 2" pvc pipe with evapo-rust solution to begin the cleaning process. Have remaining small parts in a bucket full of evapo-rest as well with some of the longer parts sticking only half the way in the solution. Tomorrow I will turn those parts around and should have all rusty parts cleaned by Thursday. I have degreased and taped off the head stock in preparation for the new paint job tomorrow. I have ordered new bearings for the drive shaft and once they arrive I can start putting things back together.

Thanks for the advice here which has been very helpful.

kschwarz20 · Post by **kschwarz20** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 6:28 pm

Checkout this video on how to reassemble the quill and install the new bearings. It is from 10ER expert Skip Campbell. It was very useful to me when I restored my 10ER.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MbGbefGFDQ

fredsheldon · Post by **fredsheldon** » Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:43 pm

Thanks for that link. Good demo of the bearing removal and replacement.

fredsheldon · Post by **fredsheldon** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:49 am

Evapo-Rust is great stuff. Places parts in bucket of the stuff overnight and rust just disappeared.

[ATTACH]19325[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]19326[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]19327[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Dec 06, 2012 12:04 pm

fredsheldon wrote:Evapo-Rust is great stuff. Places parts in bucket of the stuff overnight and rust just disappeared.

[ATTACH]19325[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]19326[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]19327[/ATTACH]

BTW it does evaporate, so open top bucket will cause some loss.

Also it does become depleted after several uses.

The location of de rust has become a very thin layer of black oxide.

Leaving a coat of the evaporust will help prevent rusting for a short period.

"Penetrol" will provide long term rust prevention on none-sliding parts.

Parts looking good!!!!

P.S. Evaporust will not help aluminum parts!

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10ER DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY removal

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