Sliding Cross Cut Table

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Dec 16, 2012 5:02 pm

Finally got to look at the video. Interesting.

When I did this project

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11262

I used maple for the runner. I have used other wood and when you get to too close to a perfect cut they can still swell enough to stick a bit. I think this might be dependent on humidity levels you experence. I work in an un-airconditioned garage shop with no control over humidity. In the winter it can quite low and summers quite high. Most of my previous versions have been oak so the change in wood will be intersting to note. I still find plastic most stable. I embeded the runner I believe about 1/8" into the bottom of the "sled". I guess his screws evey 3" has the same stablizing effect.

For me doing the 5 cuts seemed a little much. With one end of the fence pinned and a short slot for adjustment and a good square seems simple and quick. Perhaps if I ever make another one I try his method if I can remember to do so.

If someone wants to cut the two slots for the runners in the table I can give you some hints on how to do it.

Ed

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 6:33 am

reible wrote:Finally got to look at the video. Interesting.

When I did this project

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11262

I used maple for the runner. I have used other wood and when you get to too close to a perfect cut they can still swell enough to stick a bit. I think this might be dependent on humidity levels you experence. I work in an un-airconditioned garage shop with no control over humidity. In the winter it can quite low and summers quite high. Most of my previous versions have been oak so the change in wood will be intersting to note. I still find plastic most stable. I embeded the runner I believe about 1/8" into the bottom of the "sled". I guess his screws evey 3" has the same stablizing effect.

For me doing the 5 cuts seemed a little much. With one end of the fence pinned and a short slot for adjustment and a good square seems simple and quick. Perhaps if I ever make another one I try his method if I can remember to do so.

If someone wants to cut the two slots for the runners in the table I can give you some hints on how to do it.

Ed

I am interested in hearing your suggestions for cutting two slots on the underside of the sled to match the miter tracks on the table.

My first thought was to use the Incra fence and that would work well except for the simple fact that my fence does not reach far enough to make the second dado.

I have measured and measured and then measured again to make certain that the table slots are parallel and to determine separation. As stated, they are 7 1/64" apart and are parallel.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:15 am

As stated, I have a sliding cross cut sled that I am planning to replace (possibly for defensible reasons).

I decided this morning to do a five cut test. Using William Ng's method, my sled is way off (.028" over 23"). Checking for square using the "diagonals should be equal" method, the piece I cut was off about 1/32". The diagonals were 22 15/16" vs 22 15/16+".

I'm still going to build a new sled but not for the sole purpose of improving accuracy. I have my own indefensible reasons for doing so. I will attempt to incorporate some of Williams techniques. This could be fun but then it could just be an exercise in making sawdust.

No matter what happens to my sled, if you don't have one for use on your Mark 5/V, you should give serious consideration to building one.

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 1:12 am

dusty wrote:I am interested in hearing your suggestions for cutting two slots on the underside of the sled to match the miter tracks on the table.

My first thought was to use the Incra fence and that would work well except for the simple fact that my fence does not reach far enough to make the second dado.

I have measured and measured and then measured again to make certain that the table slots are parallel and to determine separation. As stated, they are 7 1/64" apart and are parallel.

See post

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11827

Ed

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 2:15 am

dusty wrote:I am interested in hearing your suggestions for cutting two slots on the underside of the sled to match the miter tracks on the table.

My first thought was to use the Incra fence and that would work well except for the simple fact that my fence does not reach far enough to make the second dado.

I have measured and measured and then measured again to make certain that the table slots are parallel and to determine separation. As stated, they are 7 1/64" apart and are parallel.

My retired machinest friend has an outstanding machine shop with top quality equipment. He has added the under cut on each side of the 500 miter slots for the 510/520 miter gauge. He has refaced sets of joner tables that was wrapped, not parallel , bowed and heavy rusty for me. He does all my double bearing quill machine work. He is prefectist. He lives in West Palmetto, FL 34221, if any one in interested, please contact me.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:34 am

reible wrote:See post

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11827

Ed

This is an excellent example of what can be done with a "story board" and without making a single measurement with a ruled. An excellent example.