Page 2 of 4

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:48 am
by Ed in Tampa
I keep a regular insert in my table. However if I know I'm going to be doing a lot of sawing I put in a Zero Clearance insert and my sharkguard upper blade guard.

I don't like to keep the ZCi in place because my blade to table alignment rarely ends up the same unless I carefully adjust for it which I don't often do when I'm busy working. I just slide the table into place lower it and start cutting. However if I have ZCi in place I must make sure my Table is full to left, the quill is completely retracted and everything lines up before I lower the ZCI over the blade.

My sharkguard catches all the chips and above table dust.

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:56 am
by terrydowning
Home made ZCI is my go to when sawing. I use hardboard cutoffs, and laminate flooring (which just happens to be the perfect thickness).

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 2:22 pm
by saminmn
terrydowning wrote:Home made ZCI is my go to when sawing.
Me too. Using 1/4" plywood currently. I need to setup one insert for drum sanding. I Plan to use fresh blank when I need a 45 degree bevel cut.

Using the SS insert as template for router worked well on stack of pieces ruff-cut to shape.

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:18 pm
by dusty
This is a question for those who make their own table saw inserts.

Do you strive to level the insert with the table top or is a slight step (.008" to .010") between the table and the insert considered tolerable.

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:22 pm
by terrydowning
I guess I've always been lucky and the materials I've used have always fit without issue.

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:10 pm
by easterngray
I make my own ZCI's from 1/4" tempered hardboard; they work great.

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:29 pm
by edflorence
dusty wrote:This is a question for those who make their own table saw inserts.

Do you strive to level the insert with the table top or is a slight step (.008" to .010") between the table and the insert considered tolerable.

I make mine from hardboard, and there has been a little step like you describe on a few of them. Didn't seem to hurt the cut but does mean you have to be more careful when checking the angle between blade and table since the top of the zci is then no good as a reference surface.

Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:39 am
by pieceseeker
Couldn't you start with a slightly thicker stock and then plane it to perfect height? That is if you have a planer!

Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:58 am
by dusty
pieceseeker wrote:Couldn't you start with a slightly thicker stock and then plane it to perfect height? That is if you have a planer!

Sometimes it is not quit that simple. In the case of my ZCI it becomes a matter of how accurately I do the setups. I do some routing/rabbeting when I make ZCI.

This image depicts the underside of a ZCI that is made from 1/2" stock. How well it fits is dependent upon how much was routed off the bottom side. The thinner areas are the result of that routing and should be a tad more that 1/4" thick (about .257").

[ATTACH]19960[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]19961[/ATTACH]

This is used to feed the ZCI through the router with one end against the fence. The fence is adjusted according to how deep into the end you want to cut. Four passes with a 3/4" router bit gets me to the 2 1/4" with some overlap. Flip the ZCI end for end and cut the other end.

Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:25 am
by transplanted
[quote="algale"]There are at least 2 advantages to ZCIs. First, by supporting the workpiece all the way to the cutting edge it minimizes chip out on the bottom surface of the work piece. Second, by closing the gap, it reduces the probability of cut offs being made into projectiles because the cut off can't fall down into the blade.

On the negative side, on a Shopsmith it eliminates the ability to adjust the quill to shave a hair off of a rip cut.

I keep telling myself to make some ZCIs for my Shopsmith but just never seem to get around to it.[/QUOTE
]
Could not have said it better. ZCI's are the way to go.