Shopsmith Forums

fredsheldon wrote:In this case, 2 out of 3 I turned and stored in January cracked. I am gaining experience in how to prepare the blanks so that the cracking might be reduced.

Fred, did ya seal the end grain when ya finished turing them? WHERE did ya store at?

I stored them in brown paper bags full of sawdust and shaving in my garage but I did not seal the end grains. I will go do that tonight on the remaining 6 if I'm not too late already. I thought the paper bag trick would be enough. Yes, I turned them green three months ago. Took them out of the bags yesterday for a look see.

terrydowning wrote:Rather than sawdust and glue, you can also use any of the following.

Polyester Resin (PR)
Fiberglas resin
Polyurethane Resin (Brand Name = Alumilite)
Epoxy resin

Any of these can be tinted or colored as desired.

The PR and Alumilite are very popular with the pen making community. Alumilite is preferred as it does not shrink as much.

I have saved bowls and spindles with both fiberglass resin and PR.

Terry, what do you used to tint the PR? Where can I pick some up?

Thanks,
Fred

rdavidp wrote:Fred,
Are you saying that you turned your bowls while green, then set them aside to finish drying, and they cracked? I thought that is what you are supposed to do with bowls. Turn the blank while green, then set up to dry, and then do the finish turning.

I guess just placing them in a bag with shavings isn't enough. I left the walls thick as recommended but that didn't help either. I think sealing the end grains is where I fell short.

Fred

PR can be purchased at most craft/hobby stores.
Cast n' Craft is a common brand. You will also need hardener (MEKP). Read and follow all directions. I typically use 5 drops per oz of resin. More hardener cures faster but can make the resin brittle. Not enough hardener and it can take allooonnnggg time to harden and cure.

For tinting, they do sell translucent dyes (same brand usually on the shelf or peg board with the resin.) I've had good luck with acrylic paints for opaque coloring. You can also Mica and or embossing powders to give a more reflective look.

As for cracking, it happens. I've had sealed ends, crack as much as the bag method. All part of the journey and fun of working with green wood.

Best bet is to get the pith removed ASAP and seal the end grain. If turning, wait a bit to see if crack develop in the stock you have. If you do get cracks cut along the crack lines and use the woods nature to your advantage.

Even kiln drying wood can cause some to crack. This is the nature of wood. You just don't see it in the stores as it is cut down and turned into other products before it hits the store.

fredsheldon wrote:I stored them in brown paper bags full of sawdust and shaving in my garage but I did not seal the end grains.

Hows the temp in the garage? Is it fairly even?

beeg wrote:Hows the temp in the garage? Is it fairly even?

My garage has been between 60-75 since January. It's insulated from the weather.

While you are experimenting there are some ideas you might try on this web page, Ron Kent.