billmayo wrote:I have a 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" socket impact drivers just for this purpose. A hammer is used to provide the power. You can really hit these drivers hard with a good hammer. I have a set of allen wrench sockets for the 3/8" driver. A small reversible impact driver is only $4.99 at Harbor Freight. However, you will need an adapter to use sockets on this one. There are listings on Ebay for these impact drivers. This HF driver have worked for me for many years.
Bingo!!!!!:)
But I have a question.
Why does the insert need to come out to do a 45 degree cut?;)
It does need to be removable just on general principles.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Why does the insert need to come out to do a 45 degree cut?]
It is not necessary to remove the factory insert. What you should do is move the blade assembly, with the quill, to position it for bevel cuts. The greater the angle the further you need to slide over the blade assembly. Here's a pic where I'm making a small bevel. For safety, I've used a piece of Masonite to make a cheap ZCI and riving knife.
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New Leaf Custom Woodworking
Berry Conway - Chief Dust Maker
I would try the Evaporust, just use a drop or two and let it wick into the threads.
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
