Trying to get the table insert out to do a 45 degree cut. The two screws that hold the insert appear to be quite solid.
I've tried soaking (as best I could) the screws with some penetrating oil. I then tried heating the screws.
They will not budge, and I'm afraid I'll break the allen key. Should I try some evaporust? Should I just try to drill them out? THanks!
... Line
table insert screws are "frozen"
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dusty
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Are we talking about a 500 or a 510 table.
On a 510/520, I have never had the screws that hard to remove. Just make certain that the allen wrench is embedded all the way into the setscrew so that you don't round off either the end of the wrench or the screw hole.
I would consider using a standard "L shaped" allen wrench on the insert screws.
On a 510/520, I have never had the screws that hard to remove. Just make certain that the allen wrench is embedded all the way into the setscrew so that you don't round off either the end of the wrench or the screw hole.
I would consider using a standard "L shaped" allen wrench on the insert screws.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Just to be sure here. You are turning it counterclockwise?:)
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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dusty
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More leverage!!!
Try an hex bit that fits in a ratchet handle. But if you do this, make certain that you keep that bit embedded in the set screw so that you don't strip it. If you strip it, obviously, there is nothing left to do but drill it out.
Try an hex bit that fits in a ratchet handle. But if you do this, make certain that you keep that bit embedded in the set screw so that you don't strip it. If you strip it, obviously, there is nothing left to do but drill it out.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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Ed in Tampa
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I would do a lot of soaking with penetrating oil before I did anything.
The problem is the steel screw in aluminum are dissimilar metals and if moisture get added to the equation things get stuck. I had a similar problem with mower deck, steel bolt in aluminum/alloy casting.
Twisted the head off each bolt and then bought new castings. In your case it would be a new main table. No machine shop I went to would drill out the castings for less than new one cost. When I tried could not stay on the steel bolt kept going off into the casting.
I would soak them and then soak them again. I would then try to remove them, but don't break the head off the screw or ruin the socket hole. If that failed I would then use a drill the exact size of the socket hole and drill it out. Then I would use a bigger one to follow that hole and drill it out more.
In the mean time I would check the price of a new Main table it will give you incentive.
The problem is the steel screw in aluminum are dissimilar metals and if moisture get added to the equation things get stuck. I had a similar problem with mower deck, steel bolt in aluminum/alloy casting.
Twisted the head off each bolt and then bought new castings. In your case it would be a new main table. No machine shop I went to would drill out the castings for less than new one cost. When I tried could not stay on the steel bolt kept going off into the casting.
I would soak them and then soak them again. I would then try to remove them, but don't break the head off the screw or ruin the socket hole. If that failed I would then use a drill the exact size of the socket hole and drill it out. Then I would use a bigger one to follow that hole and drill it out more.
In the mean time I would check the price of a new Main table it will give you incentive.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
Using a cape or cold chisel to loosen screw
As a repair technician screws stuck in aluminum casting has been a bane in my life. One technique is to use a cape chisel
or a small cold chisel. Make a small notch or nick at the outer edge of the screw then come in at a counter clockwise angle and give it a sharp rap on the outer edge. This should be enough to break the bond. Then remove with a "L" shaped allen wrench. Another suggestion would be to dress the end of the allen wrench by grinding it to a point that there are no longer any worn corners. One warning when using this method do not catch the casting when making the nick in the screw.
Note: An old or worn chisel or screwdriver can be ground to make a tool that will work as long as the material is harder than the screw.
or a small cold chisel. Make a small notch or nick at the outer edge of the screw then come in at a counter clockwise angle and give it a sharp rap on the outer edge. This should be enough to break the bond. Then remove with a "L" shaped allen wrench. Another suggestion would be to dress the end of the allen wrench by grinding it to a point that there are no longer any worn corners. One warning when using this method do not catch the casting when making the nick in the screw.
Note: An old or worn chisel or screwdriver can be ground to make a tool that will work as long as the material is harder than the screw.
Glenn
I create problem solving challenges and opportunities for design modification, not mistakes.
SS 520 born 04/16/03, Power Station mounted Band saw , Scroll saw, Jointer, Belt sander, Overarm router, dedicated Mark V drill press, SS Maxi-clamp system, Shopsmith woodworking bench
I create problem solving challenges and opportunities for design modification, not mistakes.
SS 520 born 04/16/03, Power Station mounted Band saw , Scroll saw, Jointer, Belt sander, Overarm router, dedicated Mark V drill press, SS Maxi-clamp system, Shopsmith woodworking bench
The hex bit in a ratchet is my preferred method.dusty wrote:More leverage!!!
Try an hex bit that fits in a ratchet handle. But if you do this, make certain that you keep that bit embedded in the set screw so that you don't strip it. If you strip it, obviously, there is nothing left to do but drill it out.
I also like to tap my hex bit or allen key into the aluminum fastener to make sure it's seated all the way. Hit it hard enough to scoot through the oxidation build up..on an older screw it will actually stick in there and require some wiggling to get back out. The allen key would break before you could do real damage to the fastener, so don't be too shy about it.
If the size is fairly small, small enough you can flex the allen key, I like to use the above method and turn with a cheater bar. Not for extra leverage, but to avoid slicing my hand open when/if the allen key snaps. I also pump the bar quickly and progrssively harder rather than applying constant pressure.
It also helps to tighten it some. It might help break whatever is holding it tight.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
I have a 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" socket impact drivers just for this purpose. A hammer is used to provide the power. You can really hit these drivers hard with a good hammer. I have a set of allen wrench sockets for the 3/8" driver. A small reversible impact driver is only $4.99 at Harbor Freight. However, you will need an adapter to use sockets on this one. There are listings on Ebay for these impact drivers. This HF driver have worked for me for many years.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)