Gathering Info On Finishing

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frank81
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Post by frank81 »

dan1999 wrote:The idea of spraying in the driveway kind of makes me cringe all that hard work in getting it prepared and then any gust of wind at all will bring airborne particals on to your project.
If you are concerned about this, you can make a makeshift paint booth out of pvc pipe and plastic drop cloth. It will also keep you from overspraying on the house or cars. It doesn't need to be huge, you can set the piece on a piano dolly and rotate rather than needing room to walk around. Wear a face mask and bring a fan.

Other than wind blown particles, this cuts down on the pollen this time of year.
swampgator
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Water vs. oil

Post by swampgator »

You never want to mix oil based with water applications in the same job. Water based stains/dyes for water based finishes. Oil based stains/dyes for oil based finishes.

From experience on board the USS Ranger in 1968, our compartment door was painted with oil based paint. We did something with lacquer. We liked the finish of gloss lacquer and sprayed some on that oil based compartment door. It crinkled and if that's the look, that's how you can do it. :)

Really nice work on your project. Can hardly wait to see the finished job.
Steve, the old Florida gator

I just love it when she says I can go make sawdust. ;) :D
charlese
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Post by charlese »

swampgator wrote:You never want to mix oil based with water applications in the same job. Water based stains/dyes for water based finishes. Oil based stains/dyes for oil based finishes...

Have to post a disagreement with that statement. Oil based stain after cured can successfully be finished with water based polyurethane. I've done this on every piece of furniture I've made. From tables to corner cabinet, chests, TV consoles, etc. Of course you must wait until the oil based stain is fully cured before applying the poly. My favorites are Danish oil stain and Varithane brand urethane water based floor finish.

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Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

Nice piece, Chuck!

This piece of mine also has water-based poly over oil first-coats... still doing well after 4 years.
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Chris
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

Here are a couple suggestions and a confirmation.
1-You can mix water stains and oil poly. No problem, but as mentioned, the water satin must be totally dry before you finish over it. A hairdryer helps here. The reverse is also true.
2-Stains do just that, stain the wood. They don't sit on top. Try and sand stain out of a piece and you would see quite a bit of penetration.
3-Dyes are great, you can control the depth of the penetration and the color a bit.....but you can do the same with stain if you thin it with various amounts of, and apply with, a short or long evaporating carrier.
4-An underutilized dye is food coloring. Very cheap and you can add tones etc where you may want them.
The piece looks great.
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mountainbreeze
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Post by mountainbreeze »

Thanks to all for the replies.

I thought I was convinced that dye was the better way to go to enhance the figure of the wood and that dyes penetrates more than stain. My basis for this came from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o3Ysfw0LmMw. At about 7:45 into it, is a good demonstration of stain vs. dye.

Another interesting item from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGZfmxbzTZg
at about 3:00, it is noted that some "stains" are actually dyes.

I'll let you know what I decided to do.
Bill
----------------
Mark V 520 50th Anniversary Edition, Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw
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