Gathering Info On Finishing

[mountainbreeze]

Well, the construction is complete and the finishing phase will begin soon. I've been reading as much as I can about finishing and it seems like the options expand the more I read so I'd like to get some feedback from the experts here on a few questions. Here's a picture of the project. The exterior is quarter sawn red oak & veneers and the interior is maple solids and veneers. I will be applying a stain but I have not decided on a color yet. I'm going to spray the finish with an Earlex 5500 HVLP sprayer.

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Now for the questions...

1. Do I apply any kind of finish on the interior parts (case and drawers) or do I leave them unfinished?

2. I think I have settled on a lacquer finish but now I must decide whether or not to use a water based lacquer. What are the pros and cons of each?

3. If I use a water based lacquer, does that change the type of stain I must use i.e., can it still be an oil based stain?

4. Has anyone here used the Earlex 5500 sprayer? Do you have any suggestions or tips you can share?

I'll probably have other questions, I just haven't thought of them yet.

Thanks

[frank81]

4. Has anyone here used the Earlex 5500 sprayer? Do you have any suggestions or tips you can share?
Thanks

I've never sprayed wood stain, but I've had plenty of practice with HVLP guns.

My tip is literally the tip. For a smooth application you want the smallest tip possible because it breaks the solids up. For automotive paint ideally you want a 1.0mm but real world a 1.3mm is more practicle and as high a s 1.5mm still gives professional results. I looked up water based stain and the recommended spray tip is .051" which is close to the 1.3m. Earlex's website says the 5500 comes with a 2mm (.080") tip which is pretty big. If you can change tips, I would purchase a couple in the range of 1.0mm to 1.5mm. Painting might take longer and more fine tuning of the gun but the finish will spray less chunky.

I don't know if you have already bought and used the sprayer yet or not. The sign of a good gun is whether you can change tips or not - always the first thing to look for. If not, that is a very spendy system especially if you already have an air compressor. It also has a bottom feed rather than gravity feed, which is slightly more convienent during use but is more difficult to clean properly. Not trying to be negative, I've spent too much money on "good" HVLP guns and then figured out the most important thing could not be adjusted.

Other than that, just make sure to spray test panels first and clean the gun until you think its spic and span, then clean it again.

Your work so far is absolutely beautiful I may add.

[berry]

Now for the questions...

1. Do I apply any kind of finish on the interior parts (case and drawers) or do I leave them unfinished?

2. I think I have settled on a lacquer finish but now I must decide whether or not to use a water based lacquer. What are the pros and cons of each?

3. If I use a water based lacquer, does that change the type of stain I must use i.e., can it still be an oil based stain?

4. Has anyone here used the Earlex 5500 sprayer? Do you have any suggestions or tips you can share?

I'll probably have other questions, I just haven't thought of them yet.

Thanks

Very nice build, can't wait to see it completed.

I can't help with your questions though. I always try to apply finish before final assembly. I've never sprayed on a finish. I never use lacquer.

Typically I do apply finish inside drawers/cabinets. I use General Finishes water based top coat. I put in 3 coats, per their instructions. It goes on pretty quick, dries in 3-5 hours with a light sanding between coats. Here's a pic of the drying rack I use. It's great when there are several pieces drying.

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[bffulgham]

Now for the questions...

1. Do I apply any kind of finish on the interior parts (case and drawers) or do I leave them unfinished?

2. I think I have settled on a lacquer finish but now I must decide whether or not to use a water based lacquer. What are the pros and cons of each?

3. If I use a water based lacquer, does that change the type of stain I must use i.e., can it still be an oil based stain?

4. Has anyone here used the Earlex 5500 sprayer? Do you have any suggestions or tips you can share?

I'll probably have other questions, I just haven't thought of them yet.

Thanks

A couple of resources you might consider are here. The Flexner site has lots of good info on spraying. You might also check with your local library to see if you can find a copy of Glen Huey's "Finishes that Pop"... a Popular Woodworking publication.

Good luck....Looking forward to see more pics. Great looking project!

Bud

[dan1999]

One thing I use when working with stain, to avoid splotches I like to use Minwax's pre-stain wood conditioner before you apply the stain. I just finished a pantry of 46 x 94 x 15 with red oak and I had a very nice even spread and used golden oak stain, it came out beautiful. I then sprayed it with a 35 degree lacquer because I did not want a high gloss on oak, to me oak should look more natural. A high gloss would be great for a piano but remember the higher the gloss the more any imperfections show. I am not saying that you have imperfections!!!! Secondly I would not spray the inside of the cabinet it messes a bit with the operation of the runners with the drawers. I prefer not to use the water based lacquer, I find that it does not give me the hardness of finish that I want on my furniture. But generally most of the stains out there are compatible with water based if that is your decision. (Minwax, Valspar, Behlen) Make sure that when you spray that you do it in a ventilated area, that you do not have any fans near your area that you assign to put the piece on to dry and that your compressor is also not in that area. The compressor when it draws air in it has a tendancy to throw crap into the area and that will land on your project. Make sure that you scuff sand between coats I use 380 grit sandpaper before you apply your second coat

Oh, and btw nice cabinet!!

[mountainbreeze]

Thanks to all.

As for the sprayer, I have both the 1.0mm and the 1.5mm tip. I'll play with both to see which one seems to work the best.

It looks like putting any finishing material on the inside is typically not done but I can do it if I want. On another forum it was suggested NOT to use any solvent based finishes on drawers because it will make your clothes smell like the solvent for a zillion years.

It has been suggested that I use shellac instead of lacquer but I was under the impression that shellac was not very durable. Any thoughts?

It as also been suggested I ditch the stain and use dye instead for a more natural look. This would definately be new territory for me. Do you use the dye in every coat or just the first coat? Or maybe you keep using the dye until you get the darkness of color you want then finish without the dye. This sounds more complicated than stain but if the end result is significantly more pleasing, I'd be willing to give it a go.

It looks like water base has the advantage of easy cleanup, not being nearly as bad on the respiratory system, not an explosion hazard, and not needing a spray booth. BTW, I plan to do the spraying in my driveway on a calm, low humidity day. It has the disadvantage of raising the grain of the wood, slower dry time, and being not as hard as solvent base which I suppose translates to lower durability.

The reasearch continues. Thanks again for the feedback.

[algale]

I am partial to shellac. Easy to apply with a rag or brush and no need for ventilators and it is easy to repair. You can stain separately or tint the shellac. By the way, great case piece.

[JPG]

I am partial to shellac. Easy to apply with a rag or brush and no need for ventilators and it is easy to repair. You can stain separately or tint the shellac. By the way, great case piece.

Shellac is reasonably durable as long as no alcohol touches it.

For inside a cabinet, it should be very acceptable. Reason for inside use is to control(?) moisture absorption(raising grain over time). The parts will need to breathe slightly though.

Orange shellac may be used if color is not an issue 'inside'(out of sight).

[dan1999]

The problem with putting the stain or dye in with the lacquer is that each additional coat allows less of the light to shine through in essense you will remove all of the features of the oak it will go dull and lifeless. Try it out on a scrap of material, you will see what I mean. Stain gets into the pores of the oak and gives a better finish that dyes because dyes tend to stay on the surface. I always spray my drawers with solvent based lacquer and do not stain them, and the smell last about a month then its gone.

The idea of spraying in the driveway kind of makes me cringe all that hard work in getting it prepared and then any gust of wind at all will bring airborne particals on to your project.

This is just this guy's opinion.

[mountainbreeze]

I thought it was stains that stay on the surface and dies that penetrated the wood. guess I need to do a little more research.

Unfortunately my driveway is the only place that I have where I can do spraying. I'll just have to be sure its a calm dry day before I get started.