Switch failed

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jun 17, 2013 12:31 am

johnwilliamson062 wrote:I did not have a proper jumper for the tabs, so I stripped the wires to use a wire nut on the neutral wires. I was surprised, but one of the wires is silver colored.

Likely plated copper wire.

Scratch the surface and a copper color will 'appear'.

johnwilliamson062 · Post by **johnwilliamson062** » Tue Jun 18, 2013 3:44 pm

I didn't consider it being plated. What do you think it would be plated with? I already bought the special wire nut that costs $1.50, so I will use it anyways. If I ever have time again.

aloibl · Post by **aloibl** » Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:22 pm

johnwilliamson062 wrote:I didn't consider it being plated. What do you think it would be plated with? I already bought the special wire nut that costs $1.50, so I will use it anyways. If I ever have time again.

Most likely tin plated. The tin allows for a better connection plus it also helps protect the copper against corrosion.

Alan

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:47 pm

aloibl wrote:Most likely tin plated. The tin allows for a better connection plus it also helps protect the copper against corrosion.

Alan

Tin also solders well since it is a tin lead alloy.

johnwilliamson062 · Post by **johnwilliamson062** » Sat Jun 22, 2013 4:06 pm

Finally had time to wrap this up. I used my $1.50 wire nut since I already had it. No need to worry about whether it is plated or aluminum that way.

Here is the somewhat disturbing part. The motor is running much more swiftly and even seems a bit smoother. I gathered the pieces from the old switch and it seems to be labeled 20A 227 VAC 1 HP. That didn't make sense from what I read about the switches on this forum. I thought 20A 120VAC was 1.5 HP and a higher VAC would be higher horse power. 227 seemed quite odd to begin with. I once took engineering level electrical physics, but it has been a while and looking up the equations and doing the math to try and check would cause a headache more bothersome than my curiosity.

I added a nice red safety cover to it. I like that it won't come on if bumped and being able see the switch in my peripheral vision to slap it off if I need to do so. I also like the appearance. I plan to repaint my SS in the future and will choose colors that compliment the switch(it really sticks out at present). Getting the safety cover to fit the SS without using a file on the SS was a bit of a pain. Broke one bending it and my grinder sucked one in.

Foot switch is on the way also. Not a hard wired one, just one the plug goes into so I can switch it around or take it on and off with ease. I am sure I will find something to use it on.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jun 22, 2013 11:36 pm

Forget the electrical course.

The hp rating has to do with potential arcing due to the inductive nature of the motor arcing the contacts as the switch is moved to off(opening contact).

Hence the hp rating has more to do with contact longevity(size) than contact electrical rating.