Interesting 10E Mod

skou · Post by **skou** » Thu Sep 26, 2013 3:13 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Now that I have demonstrated the fallibility of my memory cells, I shall alter the 'suggestion' made above after looking at some actual parts.

OVER!:D

I've got the benefit of my ER "coffee table" right next to me. My eyesight is a da** sight better than my memory! (I don't have to remember, just have to look.)

steve

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Sep 26, 2013 3:33 pm

skou wrote:I've got the benefit of my ER "coffee table" right next to me. My eyesight is a da** sight better than my memory! (I don't have to remember, just have to look.)

steve

As did I after the first post and went back and 'looked'. Hence the later post. I still think drilling out the tie bar is unnecessary although it simplifies '(dis)assembly'! With proper alignment, a c clamp would work!:eek:

A dedicated screw(bolt) would work if ya just left it in the tiebar threaded hole. Makes it an automatic storage place and decreases the likelihood of loosing the screw. It also provides a place to store the final lock nut!:D

Do post pix of the 10 footer!

skou · Post by **skou** » Thu Sep 26, 2013 10:43 pm

JPG40504 wrote:As did I after the first post and went back and 'looked'. Hence the later post. I still think drilling out the tie bar is unnecessary although it simplifies '(dis)assembly'! With proper alignment, a c clamp would work!:eek:

A dedicated screw(bolt) would work if ya just left it in the tiebar threaded hole. Makes it an automatic storage place and decreases the likelihood of loosing the screw. It also provides a place to store the final lock nut!:D

With both the pivot end and the tiebar threaded, I'd have no way to tighten them together. A "C" clamp, is a good idea!

On that joint, it's; pivot end, tailstock, then tiebar. Both the end pieces have threads in them. Any bolt, even a piece of allthread, won't tighten them up, unless the threads just happen to match up perfectly. a bolt, will keep the spacing aligned, but not tight. I could assemble the joint, and then lock down the setscrews, which would make it "snug," but I'd like it tighter than that. In fact, I'm thinking of doing just the opposite. Leave a gap between one (or more) of the cast iron pieces, .005 to .010, so the bolt will exert some pressure on the ends of the way tubes. (Since the bolt in mind, has a knurled end, I'm not applying foot/tons of pressure. If I can get 1 ft/lb, I'll be happy.)

"Do post pix of the 10 footer!"

A camera is next on my list of stuff.

JPG, thanks for making me think!

steve

skou · Post by **skou** » Thu Sep 26, 2013 10:59 pm

Oh, one more thing.

I ordered a tierbar and a tailstock from Tom, (HogWinslow) and requested stuff that was not perfect, if he could do it. I told him that if the threads on the tiebar were mangled, to send that one, and the only part of the tailstock, that was important, were the areas around the way tubes and the center hole.

I may end up getting mangled parts, which would be OK with me, especially if I have to drill out stuff, or cut stuff off.

steve

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:23 am

I think he would delighted to send you a 'damaged' tie bar!:D

I see the 'tie bolt' as follows.

Insert the 'bolt'(make it all-thread) into both threaded parts(hinge and tiebar).

There will be a small amount of slop in each threaded hole.

Butt the way tube joint tight.

By pulling the tie bar away from the 'joint and tightening the way tube set screws the tie bar/bolt slop will be towards the joint and the hinge/bolt slop will be away from the joint.

Tightening a nut on each end of the bolt will move both the tie bar and the hinge towards each other by the amount of their collective slop thus pressing the joint tight.

Once the tie bar has been positioned and tightened by the set screws, the 'bolt' can be merely backed out of the hinge after removing the nut on both ends. Reassembling would require bolt engaged with the tubes again tight against each other and both nuts then tightened to take the thread slop out of both ends.

This is a case of the sloppier the threads, the better!;)

skou · Post by **skou** » Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:36 am

I just checked, with the "long" bolt included with the ER. The shaft, from the base of the aluminum knurled "Knob," is 3 inches long. the first 1/4 inch is machined to be less than the minor diameter of the threads. Then, 1,375 inches of threads. (OK, 1 and 3/8ths by my yardstick.) And another 1.375 inches of shaft at the major diameter. (See the yardstick comment above.)

I screwed this bolt into both threaded parts. The tiebar showed a barely detectable movement, longitudinally. Laterally, about 1/32th of an inch at the knob end. when screwed in 3/4 inch. The hinge end, maybe .002 end play, and 1/16 inch laterally.

"This is a case of the sloppier the threads, the better!"

I wish! I just don't think there is enough slop to make enough difference.

"I think he would delighted to send you a 'damaged' tie bar!"

I hope so! I'd rather drill out a damaged one! These parts are over 60 years old, and I don't want to deface something that could be used in a restoration!

I hope he's sending a damaged tailstock, too. If I cut the top off, so I can use a "C" clamp, I won't be as distressed. (If I use the "C" clamp, it's gotta be on the bottom side, and the "upper" part of the tailstock will be in the way. I'm NOT putting the "C" clamp on the upper side, because I want all the turning diameter I can get.)

Oh, if I do the 10 foot lathe, I'm gonna have to do the join, twice! (Main ER, extension piece, and semi-dedicated drill-press ER.) The floor HAS to be flat!

steve

skou · Post by **skou** » Fri Sep 27, 2013 1:50 am

OK, I tested the SS supplied bolt, in the SS supplied parts. Maybe, the allthread will have more slop.

THAT would make things much more simple. (I wonder if I could find an undersized die.)

But, I'm waiting to see what Tom sends. (Tom got all of Bill Mayo's ER stuff, so if ANYONE gets my money, tom gets it!)

steve

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:00 am

skou wrote:OK, I tested the SS supplied bolt, in the SS supplied parts. Maybe, the allthread will have more slop.

THAT would make things much more simple. (I wonder if I could find an undersized die.)

But, I'm waiting to see what Tom sends. (Tom got all of Bill Mayo's ER stuff, so if ANYONE gets my money, tom gets it!)

steve

Some older dies are 'adjustable'. They have a slot and a set screw. They are also more easily broken.

One 'could' use a triangular file to increase thread clearance! Chuck it up and file while 'turning'.

Go to bed!;) Sleep on it!

skou · Post by **skou** » Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:08 am

Hey, I'm (until the daylight savings kicks in for the rest of you) in the pacific zone. And, don't have to be to work, until 4:00 PM, Arizona time.

Bro, thanks a LOT for your input! I may not follow what you suggest, but I DO think about it.

Oh, didn't remember the adjustable dies, even though I've seen them. (See the above paragraph.)

I'll be in bed, after this episode of MythBusters finishes. (Yes, it's on the computer, so I can pause for the cause.) The boys are tenderizing steak, with C4. Should be fun!

steve

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Sep 27, 2013 2:21 am

skou wrote:Hey, I'm (until the daylight savings kicks in for the rest of you) in the pacific zone. And, don't have to be to work, until 4:00 PM, Arizona time.

Bro, thanks a LOT for your input! I may not follow what you suggest, but I DO think about it.

Oh, didn't remember the adjustable dies, even though I've seen them. (See the above paragraph.)

I'll be in bed, after this episode of MythBusters finishes. (Yes, it's on the computer, so I can pause for the cause.) The boys are tenderizing steak, with C4. Should be fun!

steve

It does burn ya know! Tenderizing?????