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Biggest advantages of the tracksaw systems over home built saw guides is

Cut quality. On some tracksaws the cut is equal or superior to a high quality table saw.

Dust control. On some tracksaw systems 99% of the dust is captured with an attached dust control system. In fact some the tracksaw systems have allowed professional cabinet makers to construct various pieces right in the customers home.

Cut off piece cut quality. On some tracksaw systems both the good piece and the cut off piece have excellent cut quality. You don't have to recut the cut off piece to reuse it.

Add to the tracksaw ability:

To be able to cut full size sheet goods without requiring the user to man handle the full sheet.

The ability to cut tapers simply by measuring and laying the guide on the taper.

And the ability to joint boards that would requires separate jigs to accomplish the same thing.


Tracksaws are something to be considered. There are more than a few testimonials where people owning high dollar cabinet table saws ended up selling the tablesaw due to no one using it.

Also there is the safety factor, the tracksaw systems have been shown to be safer to use than say a tablesaw.

Ed in Tampa wrote:Biggest advantages of the tracksaw systems over home built saw guides is

Cut quality. On some tracksaws the cut is equal or superior to a high quality table saw.

Dust control. On some tracksaw systems 99% of the dust is captured with an attached dust control system. In fact some the tracksaw systems have allowed professional cabinet makers to construct various pieces right in the customers home.

Cut off piece cut quality. On some tracksaw systems both the good piece and the cut off piece have excellent cut quality. You don't have to recut the cut off piece to reuse it.

Add to the tracksaw ability:

To be able to cut full size sheet goods without requiring the user to man handle the full sheet.

The ability to cut tapers simply by measuring and laying the guide on the taper.

And the ability to joint boards that would requires separate jigs to accomplish the same thing.


Tracksaws are something to be considered. There are more than a few testimonials where people owning high dollar cabinet table saws ended up selling the tablesaw due to no one using it.

Also there is the safety factor, the tracksaw systems have been shown to be safer to use than say a tablesaw.

Good comments! Which track saw system do you have?

With regard to cut quality, what features of the track saw contribute to cut quality. I see that as a function of 1) the blade and 2) how well the saw is held to the glide rail.

dusty wrote:Good comments! Which track saw system do you have?

With regard to cut quality, what features of the track saw contribute to cut quality. I see that as a function of 1) the blade and 2) how well the saw is held to the glide rail.

I'm told the anti splinter insert on the rail and the zero clearance insert built into the saws or saw base is what prevents chip out. In any case it is more than blade and more than just having a guided cut. Take the same saw, same blade and make a cut against a guide and then put that same saw, same blade and place it on guide rail with everything in place and adjusted and the cut quality is day and night difference.

As far as which do I have, at the moment none, long story.

I'm now back to reevaluating my choices. Part of me says go first class for once in your life. Another part is saying hey how much longer are you going to be wood working do you really need to make another big of investment.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I'm told the anti splinter insert on the rail and the zero clearance insert built into the saws or saw base is what prevents chip out. In any case it is more than blade and more than just having a guided cut. Take the same saw, same blade and make a cut against a guide and then put that same saw, same blade and place it on guide rail with everything in place and adjusted and the cut quality is day and night difference.

As far as which do I have, at the moment none, long story.

I'm now back to reevaluating my choices. Part of me says go first class for once in your life. Another part is saying hey how much longer are you going to be wood working do you really need to make another big of investment.

Go for first class, Ed.




Only the good die young!:D


I think I like Dusty's, but wonder that the guide bar is.

JPG40504 wrote:Go for first class, Ed.




Only the good die young!:D


I think I like Dusty's, but wonder that the guide bar is.

The guide bar is a clamp on straight edge that I got as a gift (I would not have bought that particular one for myself because it is too short - 48"). I have a clamp on straight edge by eemersontool (eemersontools.com) that I would use if building one today.

BTW: The one I built has the zci feature but yes there is no riving knife function.

Again if you are just looking for a way to cut straight, any guide will probably do.

But with the guided tools systems almost all of them offer a nearly flawless cuts, most reviewer say they equal or surpass high end table saw cuts.

They also offer easier placement of the guide and usually far superior dust collection. Here again some reviewers claim dust collection is so good as to be able to work inside a house with no clean up required other than picking up the tools and perhaps a drop cloth.

Ed in Tampa wrote:Again if you are just looking for a way to cut straight, any guide will probably do.

But with the guided tools systems almost all of them offer a nearly flawless cuts, most reviewer say they equal or surpass high end table saw cuts.

They also offer easier placement of the guide and usually far superior dust collection. Here again some reviewers claim dust collection is so good as to be able to work inside a house with no clean up required other than picking up the tools and perhaps a drop cloth.

We have departed from the original object of this thread. The primary function of a track saw system is to accurately cut sheet goods using a system that is safe and easy to set up accurately.

Fancy dust collection is great, especially for the guy you wants/needs to slice up sheet goods in someone's living room.

That is not me.

I do that in the shop and if I create saw dust, I later clean it up.

In my opinion, a straight and properly located cut is all that is required of a track saw system. The rest of the characteristics that Ed speaks of are, in my opinion, functions of the saw and saw blade and not the track system.

Enough of that. We disagree (so what's new). I have said all that I will say about this particular subject (in this thread).

I am not sure of what the vast improvement a track provides that is not possible with proper use of a guide strip.

I understand the ZCI, but that is possible with a merely a base plate.
Straightness I understand, but holding tight to a straight edge will also.

So what features has a track saw that are not possible with these other methods?

This thread has well thought out home brew solutions.

My perception may be in error, but I perceive the track systems as a bit flimsey(never had one 'in hand'). The joints seem inadequate.

I will likely make one like Dusty's, but use the Emerson straight edge as suggested(I already got that). I do like Gene's however(fer 8').

JPG40504 wrote:I am not sure of what the vast improvement a track provides that is not possible with proper use of a guide strip.

I understand the ZCI, but that is possible with a merely a base plate.
Straightness I understand, but holding tight to a straight edge will also.

So what features has a track saw that are not possible with these other methods?

This thread has well thought out home brew solutions.

My perception may be in error, but I perceive the track systems as a bit flimsey(never had one 'in hand'). The joints seem inadequate.

I will likely make one like Dusty's, but use the Emerson straight edge as suggested(I already got that). I do like Gene's however(fer 8').

I agree. Most of these "appear" to be flimsy but except for safe transport why do they have to be rigid as long as the edge remains straight? Being that they are extruded aluminum makes them pretty stout. The joint, where an extension is attached, would likely be the weak point.

FYI: Emerson makes a longer version than the one I have. I believe it too is 8'. Emerson also sells a face plate to attach to you saw.

JPG said:I understand the ZCI, but that is possible with a merely a base plate.

Ya don't even need a base plate. Just a very good blade. My Tenryu blades fit the bill. That, plus the guide is (Usually) clamped to the workpiece, not the offcut. Because the blade cuts right at the edge of the guide, it's ZC... on one side anyway.
Another thing, my cuts are on a large bench that I cover with a 3/4 or 1" thick piece of insulating foam and I'm very careful to set the blade depth. Those factors probably help with the tear out, too.
As noted in my previous post, the workpieces cut with my el cheapo "track saw" need no trimming or truing up at the TS.....that is if I have measured right.