The one I showed was 'age specific' to your Greenie. The newer 500 version(s) are an improvement AIUI.delong94 wrote:Thanks for the input. I'm still sorting out all the parts and pieces I acquired. I need to post some photos soon.
Newbee Questions for table saw and lubrication
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- JPG
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Another Question
Do you know where I could get Part # A3227 for the older Magna Jigsaw Model 610? It is the back-up tube that supports the blade and keeps the air tube connected? I posted something else in a jigsaw thread as well.
I removed the belt cover last night to inspect the motor and blew out some saw dust with the air compressor. I did not go further than that, but it looks like the belts in there are fairly new (they are Pirelli brand belts on the motor pulley). I am wondering if this was rebuilt at one point. My "greenie" is no longer green, but gray. More to follow.JPG40504 wrote:With no 'faceplate' hole you apparently have an "A" headstock.
That being so, lubrication is a bit ornery.
It also is likely the moving sheave hubs do not have an oil hole.
So first the normal part. The belt cover must come loose.
Next the ornery parts. The belt must be taken off the motor pulley(set the speed control to 'fast' first). Remove the power switch(easier than disconnecting and reconnecting the wires to the switch). Drop the motor pan with motor inside(heavy).
Raise to vertical(like going to drill press mode).
Now all is revealed for the task at hand.
The floating sheave is the more difficult. Manually pull the floating sheave out and restrain it with a block of wood or whatever. If it is crudded up, this will be nigh impossible!:(. Now the motor shaft is accessible and liberal oiling of the shaft is possible. Manually allow the sheave to go closed, but do not allow it to bang into the other half of the pulley. Work the sheave in/out several times. Pull out and add oil etc.. Repeat until the sheave moves really easily. Then oil it again!:)
Moving to the control sheave. By moving the loose belt, you should be able to access the idler shaft for oiling. Proceed as above, except the speed control can be used to move the control sheave, and as a final step leave it vertical over night so the control sheave bearing gets a drink.
Be sure to set the speed control to fast prior to reinstalling the motor belt.
Should either sheave have an oil hole in the hub, do use it by all means.
Over!
I removed the belt cover last night to inspect the motor and blew out some saw dust with the air compressor. I did not go further than that, but it looks like the belts in there are fairly new (they are Pirelli brand belts on the motor pulley). I am wondering if this was rebuilt at one point. My "greenie" is no longer green, but gray. More to follow.JPG40504 wrote:With no 'faceplate' hole you apparently have an "A" headstock.
That being so, lubrication is a bit ornery.
It also is likely the moving sheave hubs do not have an oil hole.
So first the normal part. The belt cover must come loose.
Next the ornery parts. The belt must be taken off the motor pulley(set the speed control to 'fast' first). Remove the power switch(easier than disconnecting and reconnecting the wires to the switch). Drop the motor pan with motor inside(heavy).
Raise to vertical(like going to drill press mode).
Now all is revealed for the task at hand.
The floating sheave is the more difficult. Manually pull the floating sheave out and restrain it with a block of wood or whatever. If it is crudded up, this will be nigh impossible!:(. Now the motor shaft is accessible and liberal oiling of the shaft is possible. Manually allow the sheave to go closed, but do not allow it to bang into the other half of the pulley. Work the sheave in/out several times. Pull out and add oil etc.. Repeat until the sheave moves really easily. Then oil it again!:)
Moving to the control sheave. By moving the loose belt, you should be able to access the idler shaft for oiling. Proceed as above, except the speed control can be used to move the control sheave, and as a final step leave it vertical over night so the control sheave bearing gets a drink.
Be sure to set the speed control to fast prior to reinstalling the motor belt.
Should either sheave have an oil hole in the hub, do use it by all means.
Over!
I removed the belt cover last night to inspect the motor and blew out some saw dust with the air compressor. I did not go further than that, but it looks like the belts in there are fairly new (they are Pirelli brand belts on the motor pulley). I am wondering when and if this was rebuilt at one point. My "greenie" is no longer green, but gray. More to follow.JPG40504 wrote:With no 'faceplate' hole you apparently have an "A" headstock.
That being so, lubrication is a bit ornery.
It also is likely the moving sheave hubs do not have an oil hole.
So first the normal part. The belt cover must come loose.
Next the ornery parts. The belt must be taken off the motor pulley(set the speed control to 'fast' first). Remove the power switch(easier than disconnecting and reconnecting the wires to the switch). Drop the motor pan with motor inside(heavy).
Raise to vertical(like going to drill press mode).
Now all is revealed for the task at hand.
The floating sheave is the more difficult. Manually pull the floating sheave out and restrain it with a block of wood or whatever. If it is crudded up, this will be nigh impossible!:(. Now the motor shaft is accessible and liberal oiling of the shaft is possible. Manually allow the sheave to go closed, but do not allow it to bang into the other half of the pulley. Work the sheave in/out several times. Pull out and add oil etc.. Repeat until the sheave moves really easily. Then oil it again!:)
Moving to the control sheave. By moving the loose belt, you should be able to access the idler shaft for oiling. Proceed as above, except the speed control can be used to move the control sheave, and as a final step leave it vertical over night so the control sheave bearing gets a drink.
Be sure to set the speed control to fast prior to reinstalling the motor belt.
Should either sheave have an oil hole in the hub, do use it by all means.
Over!
- JPG
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The greenie paint is magic! It turns a light grayish color. How about a pix so we can verify what you have?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
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I think you will have better luck making one unless Bill Mayo has one. PM him.delong94 wrote:Do you know where I could get Part # A3227 for the older Magna Jigsaw Model 610? It is the back-up tube that supports the blade and keeps the air tube connected? I posted something else in a jigsaw thread as well.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Photos of my Mark V
Here are some photos of my system I acquired this week.
Comments welcome.
Comments welcome.
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- JPG
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Well that certainly nails things down! Tis indeed a Greenie painted 'machine tool gray'.
'A' headstock no less.
Keep track of the front table extension, they be scarce and different from later ones. The clamp differs to accommodate the different table rail.
A nice acquisition BTW.
Keep track of the front table extension, they be scarce and different from later ones. The clamp differs to accommodate the different table rail.
A nice acquisition BTW.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange