I recently aquired an old SS Mark V with alot of accessories (I am estimating the Headstock SN indicates it was made in SEPT or OCT of 1954). The system came with the older magna jigsaw (original), magna jointer, newer band saw (1990), strip sander, shaper fence, and biscuit jointer.
This tables on the system are original (smaller version) and do not have any safety accessories for the table saw.
Will at 510 upper and lower table saw guard fit this?
Also, what is the best way to lube the sheaves? I cannot access one via the faceplate method.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Newbee Questions for table saw and lubrication
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dusty
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Welcome to the forum. You have come to the right place to get answers to your Shopsmith related questions.
However, the only question that I can answer is that related to using a 510 upper/lower saw guard. No, they are not compatible.
I'll let others, who have experience with the 500 answer your questions regarding lubrication. All I can tell you is that it is very important to do so.
However, the only question that I can answer is that related to using a 510 upper/lower saw guard. No, they are not compatible.
I'll let others, who have experience with the 500 answer your questions regarding lubrication. All I can tell you is that it is very important to do so.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
With no 'faceplate' hole you apparently have an "A" headstock.
That being so, lubrication is a bit ornery.
It also is likely the moving sheave hubs do not have an oil hole.
So first the normal part. The belt cover must come loose.
Next the ornery parts. The belt must be taken off the motor pulley(set the speed control to 'fast' first). Remove the power switch(easier than disconnecting and reconnecting the wires to the switch). Drop the motor pan with motor inside(heavy).
Raise to vertical(like going to drill press mode).
Now all is revealed for the task at hand.
The floating sheave is the more difficult. Manually pull the floating sheave out and restrain it with a block of wood or whatever. If it is crudded up, this will be nigh impossible!:(. Now the motor shaft is accessible and liberal oiling of the shaft is possible. Manually allow the sheave to go closed, but do not allow it to bang into the other half of the pulley. Work the sheave in/out several times. Pull out and add oil etc.. Repeat until the sheave moves really easily. Then oil it again!:)
Moving to the control sheave. By moving the loose belt, you should be able to access the idler shaft for oiling. Proceed as above, except the speed control can be used to move the control sheave, and as a final step leave it vertical over night so the control sheave bearing gets a drink.
Be sure to set the speed control to fast prior to reinstalling the motor belt.
Should either sheave have an oil hole in the hub, do use it by all means.
Over!
That being so, lubrication is a bit ornery.
It also is likely the moving sheave hubs do not have an oil hole.
So first the normal part. The belt cover must come loose.
Next the ornery parts. The belt must be taken off the motor pulley(set the speed control to 'fast' first). Remove the power switch(easier than disconnecting and reconnecting the wires to the switch). Drop the motor pan with motor inside(heavy).
Raise to vertical(like going to drill press mode).
Now all is revealed for the task at hand.
The floating sheave is the more difficult. Manually pull the floating sheave out and restrain it with a block of wood or whatever. If it is crudded up, this will be nigh impossible!:(. Now the motor shaft is accessible and liberal oiling of the shaft is possible. Manually allow the sheave to go closed, but do not allow it to bang into the other half of the pulley. Work the sheave in/out several times. Pull out and add oil etc.. Repeat until the sheave moves really easily. Then oil it again!:)
Moving to the control sheave. By moving the loose belt, you should be able to access the idler shaft for oiling. Proceed as above, except the speed control can be used to move the control sheave, and as a final step leave it vertical over night so the control sheave bearing gets a drink.
Be sure to set the speed control to fast prior to reinstalling the motor belt.
Should either sheave have an oil hole in the hub, do use it by all means.
Over!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Thank you! Do you what types of guards are available for this older system? I'd feel better having some saftey mechanism for using the table saw. I know I can upgrade to the 510 tables, but I can't afford that option at the moment.dusty wrote:Welcome to the forum. You have come to the right place to get answers to your Shopsmith related questions.
However, the only question that I can answer is that related to using a 510 upper/lower saw guard. No, they are not compatible.
I'll let others, who have experience with the 500 answer your questions regarding lubrication. All I can tell you is that it is very important to do so.
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joshh
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 723
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:53 pm
- Location: Dallas / Fort Worth, Texas
They sometimes come up on eBay though I don't see any for the 500 listed right now. Other forum members may have one to sell. If you contact Bill Mayo, I bet he has one to sell you also.
Another option is to shell out over $200 for a new one from shopsmith, but if you were gonna do that...pay a little more and get a used 510 table upgrade.
Another option is to shell out over $200 for a new one from shopsmith, but if you were gonna do that...pay a little more and get a used 510 table upgrade.
- 1986 Mark V 500 Mini
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
- 1985 Mark V 510 with reversible motor, bandsaw, jointer, and double-tilt.
I offer quality motor reversal, rebuilding, and rewiring. Contact me at HarbourTools@live.com
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terrydowning
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
it's more than a little more for the 510 upgrade from SS. (Close to $1000 delta between the 500 guards and the 510 upgrade)
500 Saw Guard system $227 (I purchased mine 10 yrs ago when it was significantly less expensive)
500 to 510 upgrade is $1200
500 to 520 upgrade is $1321 (If upgrading from SS go the 520 route)
BTW you're almost half way to Mark 7 PP so you may as well go all the way IMHO
IMO the safety stuff for the 500 is almost useless. The splitter on the upper guard is too far away from the blade to function properly and I find it difficult to keep aligned properly, it tends to cause me more trouble than it's worth so I go without it more often than not. The lower saw guard does help with dust collection but it still spews a lot. I have never had the occasion to put my hands beneath the table when the saw is running so not sure of its safety applicability. I do use the lower guard as stated to assist in DC
If you are going to use your SS in Table Saw mode on a regular basis I recommend piecing together a 505/510/520 upgrade.
First purchase these
Carriage
Table (510 or 520 depends on what you want in terms of the fence, what's available and what you're willing to spend)
Fence
Extension table
Safety guards
Arbors
Then add the floating tables and extension tubes (Tube mounting will need to match whatever you chose for the table)
You should be able to piecemeal all of this for a few hundred bucks via craigslist and/or eBay
Personally I opted to reduce my table saw usage and use other means for cutting instead. This greatly depends on the type of cutting you intend to do. I find that there is very little my band saw and Sliding Compound Miter saw can't do. Supplemented by some rather nice Hand Saws, I find I only use my SS in Table saw mode if I have a lot of repeatable cuts to do on engineered wood products (plywood, MDF, OSB etc).
Lots of options here. If you want the safety devices plan on at least a couple of hundred bucks.
500 Saw Guard system $227 (I purchased mine 10 yrs ago when it was significantly less expensive)
500 to 510 upgrade is $1200
500 to 520 upgrade is $1321 (If upgrading from SS go the 520 route)
BTW you're almost half way to Mark 7 PP so you may as well go all the way IMHO
IMO the safety stuff for the 500 is almost useless. The splitter on the upper guard is too far away from the blade to function properly and I find it difficult to keep aligned properly, it tends to cause me more trouble than it's worth so I go without it more often than not. The lower saw guard does help with dust collection but it still spews a lot. I have never had the occasion to put my hands beneath the table when the saw is running so not sure of its safety applicability. I do use the lower guard as stated to assist in DC
If you are going to use your SS in Table Saw mode on a regular basis I recommend piecing together a 505/510/520 upgrade.
First purchase these
Carriage
Table (510 or 520 depends on what you want in terms of the fence, what's available and what you're willing to spend)
Fence
Extension table
Safety guards
Arbors
Then add the floating tables and extension tubes (Tube mounting will need to match whatever you chose for the table)
You should be able to piecemeal all of this for a few hundred bucks via craigslist and/or eBay
Personally I opted to reduce my table saw usage and use other means for cutting instead. This greatly depends on the type of cutting you intend to do. I find that there is very little my band saw and Sliding Compound Miter saw can't do. Supplemented by some rather nice Hand Saws, I find I only use my SS in Table saw mode if I have a lot of repeatable cuts to do on engineered wood products (plywood, MDF, OSB etc).
Lots of options here. If you want the safety devices plan on at least a couple of hundred bucks.
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
The 'correct' one will look like this'n.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=10611&highlight=guard
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=10611&highlight=guard
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I'm not much of a pre 1976 shopsmith person. The blade guard version I got with my 1976 model looks a lot like what was pictured in the JPG link.
I was not a fan of that system. In fact I did use it sometimes and other times it just became a pain.... so at some point shopsmith offered any upgrade what I purchased. It was a much better design, and worked well enough so I started using it full time. Shortly after they upgraded the upgrade with a better dust collection port.
You do have to do some drilling to mount it but the templates come with it and it is not all that hard to do. You can also build a guide that lets you align the top guard to the saw which works pretty well.
As was mentioned, it is not cheap from shopsmith.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... system.htm
I have seen them on ebay for far less.
I'd for go the old AL version.....
Worth the price, it is up to you.
Ed
PS
If anyone is having alignment issues with this newer guard I can look up the alignment gauge, it simple to make and cost is almost nothing if you have scrap wood in your shop... and it works pretty well.
I was not a fan of that system. In fact I did use it sometimes and other times it just became a pain.... so at some point shopsmith offered any upgrade what I purchased. It was a much better design, and worked well enough so I started using it full time. Shortly after they upgraded the upgrade with a better dust collection port.
You do have to do some drilling to mount it but the templates come with it and it is not all that hard to do. You can also build a guide that lets you align the top guard to the saw which works pretty well.
As was mentioned, it is not cheap from shopsmith.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... system.htm
I have seen them on ebay for far less.
I'd for go the old AL version.....
Worth the price, it is up to you.
Ed
PS
If anyone is having alignment issues with this newer guard I can look up the alignment gauge, it simple to make and cost is almost nothing if you have scrap wood in your shop... and it works pretty well.