Shopsmith Forums

JPG40504 wrote:The reason I consider it 'better' is that the dual bearings are replaceable, whereas the older water pump bearing is not. That said, the older bearings last a very long time if not squeezed too much.

I am finding less than 10% of the old idler shafts have started to have problems with wear, noise and roughness to where I have to replace them. I believe the cone point set screw has caused the most bearing problems from over tightening the set screw in the eccentric bushing. I switched to the knurl-grip cup point set screw originally for the Gilmer drives but have used this set screw for all the eccentric bushings in the past year.

I got the parts yesterday and replaced them today. I ended up replacing the whole unit as it came with its own eccentric bushing and the one I removed from my machine was no better.
I did have one small causality however. When replacing the speed control I stripped the threaded hole in the headstock casting for the retaining screw that carries the spring and the wire clip inside. I thought about re-tapping it and installing a larger screw but decided in the end just to use a longer screw with a nut. I'll monitor the situation for a while and if it doesn't loosen I'll leave it. I guess the "correct" repair would be to heli-coil it. That way everything would be as per specs. We'll see.

On another note, WOW, is this thing ever quieter. I guess the keyway had been wearing for a while and I had become used to a little extra noise. The bottom line is ..... for forty-five bucks and an hour's work, I'm a happy camper.

Thanks for the help.

shipwright wrote:I got the parts yesterday and replaced them today. I ended up replacing the whole unit as it came with its own eccentric bushing and the one I removed from my machine was no better.
I did have one small causality however. When replacing the speed control I stripped the threaded hole in the headstock casting for the retaining screw that carries the spring and the wire clip inside. I thought about re-tapping it and installing a larger screw but decided in the end just to use a longer screw with a nut. I'll monitor the situation for a while and if it doesn't loosen I'll leave it. I guess the "correct" repair would be to heli-coil it. That way everything would be as per specs. We'll see.

On another note, WOW, is this thing ever quieter. I guess the keyway had been wearing for a while and I had become used to a little extra noise. The bottom line is ..... for forty-five bucks and an hour's work, I'm a happy camper.

Thanks for the help.

Not only can they become stripped, many break off. Something about that hole/ear. I think cross threading that hole while keeping the spring on the screw may be a contributing factor.???

Probably like my Goldie after I finally replaced the control sheave and key. Ahhhh! so quiet now, and changes speed so smoothly.