Well! My paperwork does not have that pix. May be incomplete.
Adding to the 'conversation', I have two different 'catalogs'. Each has a pix of the speed changer. One has the control rod to the right(outside), and the other has it to the left(inside).
So I guess it is user's 'choice'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Ya got a wiffle golf ball on the quill feed lever!:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Before I do that (assuming everything is correct and the handles still interfere with each other), I'm going to try replacing headstock lock lever with either a cap head screw or a threaded stud with a knob. I don't know if I'll be able to apply enough torque to lock things up or not, but it's worth a shot.
Lol. Yeah... Since I received it in that condition, I'm considering it an OEM part
That'll probably get replaced with either (purchased) original arms, or I may make some up from long carriage bolts and some turned wood knobs. It's not important to me either way since I'm only refurbishing this one enough to put it into use.
Cavediver, just remove the adjustment screw, and re-install it to the left of the ears. (Or, follow Heath's picture.) That is the real way to install the speedchanger. (Sorry JPG!) The other thing you can do, is to "index" the headstock lock, to be in another position. If you have 2 wedge locks, the inner lock has a nut inside it, that the handle threads into. Just move the nut, so the handles don't hit. (Personally, I think it's easier to move the speedchanger adjust screw.)
JPG was right about something else. Bolting the speedchanger, the attachment needs to be real "sloppy." Or, when you try to slide the headstock, it won't slide.
Before I do that (assuming everything is correct and the handles still interfere with each other), I'm going to try replacing headstock lock lever with either a cap head screw or a threaded stud with a knob. I don't know if I'll be able to apply enough torque to lock things up or not, but it's worth a shot.
How is that going to improve the 'situation'?
Not sure which lock you have, but a washer between the 'bent screw handle', and the outer wedge may change change the position of the handle when tightened.
I fergit about that nut! Y'all got me at a disadvantage, since I cannot find my 'wedges'. They are in a box(or whatever) with all the rest of the hardware(I hope!).
As long as it clears the belt, I think the inside location makes sense.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
skou wrote:Cavediver, just remove the adjustment screw, and re-install it to the left of the ears. (Or, follow Heath's picture.) That is the real way to install the speedchanger. (Sorry JPG!) The other thing you can do, is to "index" the headstock lock, to be in another position. If you have 2 wedge locks, the inner lock has a nut inside it, that the handle threads into. Just move the nut, so the handles don't hit. (Personally, I think it's easier to move the speedchanger adjust screw.)
JPG was right about something else. Bolting the speedchanger, the attachment needs to be real "sloppy." Or, when you try to slide the headstock, it won't slide.
steve
Oops! I was paying more attention to the belts in those photos, and missed the fact that the adjustment screws were on opposite sides. I'll give that a try tonight!
JPG40504 wrote:How is that going to improve the 'situation'?
A knob would have a diameter smaller than the current swing of the locking lever, which should provide the clearance I need.
Hopefully putting the screw on the opposite side of the ears will provide the room I need. (Sorry for being so dense and not picking up on that when it was first suggested!)
The first shot in that series shows the screw behind the ears, the same way mine is currently positioned. Subsequent shots of the speed changer mounted on the way tubes all show the screw in front of those ears.
It's a tiny detail, but I'd bet it's going to provide all of the room I need.
Thanks all for the help, I'll report back this evening when I get things swapped around.