10E Speed Changer Crank vs. Headstock Lock

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Cavediver
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10E Speed Changer Crank vs. Headstock Lock

Post by Cavediver »

Hey folks,
I recently picked up a speed changer for my 10E, and finally got around to putting it on this weekend. It appears the speed adjustment crank will block my ability to tighten and loosen the headstock lock. Is this a common issue, or have I installed it incorrectly?

Also, the threaded stud that connects the speed changer to the headstock and the jamb nut were not included. I figure the stud is easy (3/8x1-1/4"), but would like a detail or three on the jamb nut. Is there a certain thickness that I need to stay under? Does it need to be a knurled nut like the original, or can it be a standard hex? Also, once I use the stud to lock the motor mount in place, how tight do I need to make that jamb nut.

Thanks!
Jay
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

You might have it installed wrong. There's not a ton of clearance, but it should definitely clear. Post a picture and we might can tell you where you went wrong.

I think I have an extra threaded stud and jam nut. I'll have to look tonight. If I remember correctly, I thought I lost mine when I disassembled it and ordered another one. After I got the replacement, I found the original right where I had put it so I wouldn't lose it.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Cavediver
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Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 9:14 pm
Location: Buford Ga

Post by Cavediver »

Pics it'll be. I'll take a couple of shots this evening and post them up.

I looked it over quite carefully yesterday. The lock lever is bent ever-so-slightly, but it's not nearly enough to cause the type of interference I'm seeing.

Is the main casting of the speed control supposed to be pressed up tight to the headstock, or will there be a fair bit of space between them once the jamb nut is installed?
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

Cavediver wrote:Pics it'll be. I'll take a couple of shots this evening and post them up.

I looked it over quite carefully yesterday. The lock lever is bent ever-so-slightly, but it's not nearly enough to cause the type of interference I'm seeing.

Is the main casting of the speed control supposed to be pressed up tight to the headstock, or will there be a fair bit of space between them once the jamb nut is installed?
There's a little bit of space between them. The screw assembly (adjusting leaver, threaded rod, etc) can be mounted on either side of the "ears". You might have yours mounted on the headstock side. I had mine there at first and while the handles cleared, my knuckles didn't. I moved it to the belt side of the ears and it's a lot better now.

You can get the original installation and operation instructions at the Vintage Machinery site here: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2714
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

The attachment of the speed changer to the headstock needs to be a bit sloppy, so it will not cause jamming as they are slid on the way tubes.

IIRC the crank needs to be attached on the opposite side as(away from) the headstock lock.

Well so much for my 'recollection'!

[ATTACH]24676[/ATTACH]
Attachments
ER speed changer.jpg
ER speed changer.jpg (203.14 KiB) Viewed 1407 times
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

I counter that with...

[ATTACH]24677[/ATTACH]

That's the cover image on the original instruction sheet.

As I said, it should work and have clearance on either side of the ears.
Attachments
Screenshot_2014-04-07-21-51-12~01~01.png
Screenshot_2014-04-07-21-51-12~01~01.png (404.38 KiB) Viewed 1396 times
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Cavediver
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Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 9:14 pm
Location: Buford Ga

Post by Cavediver »

So, does that make the first picture the low speed option?

eta: I've taken a couple of photos and will crop / edit them for posting tomorrow AM. Unless the speed changer floats way off of the headstock, they won't clear each other.
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heathicus
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Post by heathicus »

Yep, the first picture is in the low speed range. But, pay attention to how the threaded adjusting rod is attached to the "ears."
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Cavediver
Gold Member
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 9:14 pm
Location: Buford Ga

Post by Cavediver »

Here's one of the pictures as an attachment:
Attachments
IMG_5251.JPG
IMG_5251.JPG (232.46 KiB) Viewed 1350 times
Cavediver
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Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 9:14 pm
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Post by Cavediver »

Double Post.
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