`Since you are replacing the bearing, you can be 'forceful' when removing it. Key detail is to apply force in the correct direction. You do not want to get things cocked. My limited experience has been that the quill bearing comes out quite easily. After removing the retaining clip etc. the quill can be placed on an immovable object so that the bearing bore is clear and tapping on the end of the splined shaft. Use a piece of hard wood between the shaft and the hammer to prevent mushrooming the shaft. The bearing can be removed from the shaft by sticking the splined end loosely between a vise jaws and again tapping on the shaft end(this time the flatted end). Again no direct hammer to shaft contact. The bigger the vise, the better.
Once the shaft and bores are cleaned up, the bearing will slip on fairly easily. Bearing on shaft first, then the pair into the quill body.
That splined shaft wobble is not unusual. The shaft end in the main shaft keeps that under control. Because of that 'play', the washer is used to help guide the splined shaft into the main shaft(holds it centered).
Cleaning up Greenie, questions about quill rebuilding
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange