Shopsmith Forums

Oh. I understand now Forrest.

Forgive this newbe if this is ridiculous, but how about an adjustable “spacer”.

Get a piece of square steel an inch or so long, that fits the slot in the quill. Drill and tap it 32 tpi, sort of like a long square nut. Now thread in a bolt with the head squared to fit the quill slot. Use this spacer against the split collar reible suggested.

Here’s how I see this working.

1. Install the split collar and extend the quill so that the spacer will fit in the slot. (The spacer should be completely closed), and lock the quill.

2. Zero the bit to the table.

3. Extend the quill slightly, and turn the bolt to adjust your depth of cut, ie 4 turns for 1/8”, 8 turns for 1/4”, etc. Lock the quill.

4. Now all you have to do to adjust within 1/128” is turn the bolt ¼ turn and reset the quill to the new stop. No need to move the collar.

Jim

reible wrote:I have a split collar which makes it easy to take on or off.
Ed

Reible, Where did you get this split collar?

Here is the posting I did on stop collars and it contains information on where I got mine and where others found them.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11298


If you are new here I would say give it a read, if you read it before it's up to you.

Ed

Great thread reible. Thanks.

I did a search on threaded stop collar and found this

http://www.staffordmfg.com/Product-Cate ... r-Assembly

Joy in my heart:) until I downloaded the PDF catalog page: maximum bore listed is 1 ½ inch:eek:

I will pursue this idea with them and others. If available, how to mount it on the quill is my next quest. I know someone has done this kind of thing.

Forrest

forrestb wrote:I have made a router table that fits on the table when in the under-the-table routing setup.

I use the stop collar to made fine adjustments to the fence position, but do not have a good method of making fine adjustment to the quill for vertical movement.

Has anyone worked (and solved) this problem?

Forrest

At the risk of being mocked for ALWAYS saying this, I'ma gonna say Model 10!

For those of you that don't have an ER, the depth gauge is a square threaded rod, with 2 nuts on it and a washer with a square hole in it, between the 2 nuts. The rod is securely mounted to the quill front end. The lower nut hits a forked slot, cast into the headstock, when bottomed out. The nuts are knurled on the outside, and are "hand tighten" only. I can loosen one, just a wee bit, and tighten the other one up against it, moving the quill about 3 thousandths or so. (If you're old enough, and your high school had an old drill-press in metal shop, it had the same depth stop setup. Mine did.)

steve

skou wrote:At the risk of being mocked for ALWAYS saying this, I'ma gonna say Model 10!

For those of you that don't have an ER, the depth gauge is a square threaded rod, with 2 nuts on it and a washer with a square hole in it, between the 2 nuts. The rod is securely mounted to the quill front end. The lower nut hits a forked slot, cast into the headstock, when bottomed out. The nuts are knurled on the outside, and are "hand tighten" only. I can loosen one, just a wee bit, and tighten the other one up against it, moving the quill about 3 thousandths or so. (If you're old enough, and your high school had an old drill-press in metal shop, it had the same depth stop setup. Mine did.)

steve

And FWIW,the '10' had stop collars, but only the 'fixed' ones.

&quot wrote:And FWIW,the '10' had stop collars, but only the 'fixed' ones.

I've only seen 1 stop collar on a "10," and that was on the lathe toolrest base. (The part that went in the carriage.) And, I've only seen a couple.

steve

How about trying McMaster Carr online for the shaft collar?

Please send me a PM. Stafford has said they can do it but it would be custom (sounds like $$$$).

I am willing to give it a try and get a quote. It would help with the price were I to ask for 10 or 20 (is that enough )

I will wait a week before I contact their local distributor, so think about it if you will.

Thanks

Forrest