Shopsmith Forums

Yes, the spring does appear to be normal.

Knowing the speed control setting give an indication of how wide open or closed the sheaves should be.

I believe the motor sheave is stuck in a position other than where it should be. The v-belt seems too loose but the spring looks about right (I gotta go look at mine).

Late Post:

Actually, I have come to the conclusion that I can not trouble shoot in this manner. Pictures that I took of my own Mark V make the belts appear wrong.

Step one: Get rid of all that sawdust.

Then you can see what is going on.

The floating sheave on the motor shaft is stuck fer sure.

Realize the speed control only positions the control sheave along the idler shaft(opens/closes the pulley).

The risk of damage is when the control sheave closes the pulley and the belt is squeezed thereby. Unless the belt is 'relieved' of that squeezing, the forces all the way back to the gears on the control knob are stressed. Rotating the shafts provides that relief. However the floating sheave on the motor shaft must be free to open up.

So step two is to get the floating sheave free to 'float'.

Buckling of the spring under tension is normal. Ever tried to squeeze a spring free hand?

This may require either oiling the shaft/sheave gap from the belt side and raising the 'foot' end so the oil can migrate towards the spring end or (bad choice) attempting to remove the spring while under all that tension.

How do I unstick the floating sheave? How do I unstick the motor sheave?

Is this the inspection port you're talking about?

Yes that is the 'port'.

Surprisingly the speed control looks decent.

Again that dust needs to go so the parts(details) are visible.

As for unsticking the sheaves, the sheave to shaft contact needs to be lubricated. However most likely the dust has caked with what little oil was there and become 'crud'.

Best 'solution' is to completely disassemble it then clean, then lubricate, then reassemble, then add more oil.

Trick is to get the oil to seep in without also making the sawdust/crud also expand.

If they are really really stuck considerable force will be needed to get them to move.

An overnite(or longer) soak with penetrating stuff(kerosene, pbblaster, kroil) may help get them started moving.

Problem is, with the sheaves stuck it don't disassemble well either.

Patience will go a long way with this.

Resist the urge to use a 'hammer' until no other option is available and then very judiciously. Yes some do not come apart without shock force. Twisting will not help since the shaft is keyed.

I am, not trying to discourage you, but just to prepare you for what may be very difficult.

Also you may need this.
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beeg wrote:Also you may need this.

replacing the motor spring.PDF

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I was counting on Beeg doing this!

I finally had a chance to tear the headstock down and found both floating sheaves stuck. I was too aggressive on the Poly V sheave and had this happen: Should I get a new shaft and sheave? or just file down the sharp spots on this one?

My pork chop also had an open part in it: All in all a lot of sawdust and the floating sheaves would barely move. I appreciate any help anyone can give me.

bamend13209 wrote:I finally had a chance to tear the headstock down and found both floating sheaves stuck. I was too aggressive on the Poly V sheave and had this happen:

IMG_0743.JPG

Should I get a new shaft and sheave? or just file down the sharp spots on this one?

My pork chop also had an open part in it:

IMG_0745.JPG

All in all a lot of sawdust and the floating sheaves would barely move. I appreciate any help anyone can give me.

I would do that.

The void in the porkchop does not appear to be severe enough to warrant concern assuming the back side is solid.

Far more worrisome is the condition of the gear teeth on the porkchop.
Cannot tell fer sure, but the pix looks good.

I assume both sheaves are now 'loose'? Secret now is clean shafts and bores and oil and oil and oil and . . . . If not, persistent push/pull on the floating sheave will eventually get it off. May require more force than you are comfortable with. That includes impact. Trick is to not bend/break the sheave. This un can be very stubborn. I think it is often the 'forgotten' lubrication target.

The gear teeth are good. I checked them all. When I put it all together the poly V belt is lose. Is there a clock position the detent on the eccentric bushing is supposed to be? Is the retaining washer for the bushing or the bearing?

I agree with JPG that you should file the sharp edges off the poly V pully. As long as there no sharp edges coming in contact with the belt there will be no excessive wear. The hole in the pork chop casting may be a slight blow out that occurred when the rivet holding the spring in place was pressed in. I don't think that it is of any concern.
The teeth on the speed control seem to be real good for a machine that is of that age.
If this was my machine I would tear it down completely and do a thorough cleaning and reassembly. I always like to have a "base line" for the stuff I buy like cars and other things.
In my opinion the sheave lockups occurred after the PO was finished using the machine. If the sheaves were binding when the machine was in use I believe that the pork chop would show more wear.
Bill V
I just realized that I failed to answer one of your questions.
There is no index for the eccentric bushing. Loosen the clamp bolt under the bushing and rotate the bushing using a flat blade screwdriver in the split in the bushing to tension the belt. Tighten the clamp bolt CAREFULLY.
Too much torque on that bolt will break the tabs under the eccentric and essentially ruin the headstock casting. Thumb and forefinger pressure on a 1/4 inch "T" handled allen wrench should be enough.
Bill V