Shopsmith Forums

I hesitate to disassemble my one and only of that version, since it is square, but I guess you may have a burr(s) on the holes drilled through the extrusion that are cocking the extrusion relative to the front clamp. If not shimming may be needed to correct the tilt.

I already took a 510 fence apart today for another thread.(it was funky to begin with ).



Geez another thing to fret over!

I do not have the Shopsmith band saw fence but I do have the Shopsmith-edition Kreg band saw fence. It is a relatively simply matter to adjust the face of the fence relative to the blade. There are a pair of socket head nylon screws on either side of the head which are used, seen in this image.

Dusty
Yes , jointing the edge adjacent to the face that rides on the fence is necessary. Basically you should prep the stock as you would to square up any stock for a project. Flatten one face and then joint one edge. A tall fence and a feather board is also necessary. I use the push block to advance the stock as well as to hold it against the resaw fence.
Bill V

Good advice.

Dusty,
I bought the Kreg resaw guide to go with their fence. I would think that it could be easily adapted to fit the standard SS bandsaw fence. It should be much easer to shim it than to try and square the fence to the table.

Just my thoughts.

Be well,
Ben

Hey guys. I know this an old thread, but I just ran into the same problem as Dusty - table is square to blade, but SS fence is not square to the table. There does not seem to be an adjustment on the fence for this - did anyone figure out how to correct this??

Ed

Couple points that helped me to re-saw to 1/16 routinely..

1 - I made my own fence out of wood using a couple old hard drive magnets that hold it down, works amazingly well (only works with old iron table) calibrated the fence to the table by using old business cards between the base and fence with screws holding it together. I too tried several fences finally just gave up, making my own allowed me to customize it to my table and blade. May have to make a couple passes with some scap to dial it in, but worth the effort

2 - if it's an older BS the rod guide retainer has slop (side to side) in it making locking down a crap shoot with respect to blade being vertical to table, if I explained that right. After I ordered and installed 5025499 Bandsaw Retainer and 5025549 Rod Blade Guide. The retainer has another adjustment screw added to take out that side to side slop, it's an upgrade to the BS SS isn't real good about letting folks know it even exists.

3 - I upgraded to cool blocks which allows you to rest the blocks right against the blade. Once all that was done and adjusted, re-sawing became a breeze and is dead on now, no drift perfectly vertical cuts every time

edit: forgot to add I use woodslicer blades they seem to work pretty well, if I had to pin down the most useful items it would be two and three above

Many of us do know about that screw!

Thanks guys, but I'm not following you - are you suggesting aligning the blade out of square to match/be parallel to the fence?? Mine is a newer bandsaw with aluminum table, and cool blocks - the upper blade guard seems to be operating properly, and yes I saw the plastic adjustment screw.

Maybe I could try adding a wood fence and hand-planing it to make the business end square to the table, but I'd lose width...