Out With the Old and In With the New

[Gene Howe]

Not needing to account for drift was the biggest surprise I had after installing the new guides. The excellent cut wasn't so surprising as I expected a big difference.
The SS 5/8, 3-4TPI blade is running on mine. It's pretty good, now that it runs straight.
I tried a blade from Suffolk Machinery and, while it cut well, it dulled very quickly.
When the SS blade wears out, I'll try the Wood Slicer.

[claimdude]

Dusty,

I did the double bearing upgrade on my bandsaw from the forum and have had no squeal since (about a year and a half i think. Side by side bearings at the tension adjustment, above the table and below the table. My bandsaw performs better than it ever has but I would like to improve it a bit more so I may get the carter guides (I use ceramic guides now but those will take the set out of a blade in a heartbeat). I have never had good luck with the cool blocks (most likely user error).

Thank Gene for the posts... Also, Dusty I have eyed the woodslicer for a long time I guess it is time to get one of those as well.

Jack

Yesterday, I received and installed the Carter guide system on the band saw.
I know that many guys don't feel that they help in any appreciable fashion, but WOW, what a difference they make on my saw with the 5/8, 4 TPI blade.
I was able to resaw a 3/16" X 5" with absolutely no deviation and, even though previous set up attempts indicated there was a need for a cocked fence to accommodate for drift, a squared up fence was used with beautiful results.
I'm sold!

BTW, I increased the speed from "Slow" to the "B" setting, as suggested. I had tried this setting before installing the Carter guides and it helped a little, but now, it's darned near perfect.

OKAY, Gene, I', listening. I am one of the nay sayers. What do Carter Guide System do for is not done by the cool blocks?

I already understand that the bearings provide a frictionless guide but that doesn't change the blade performance. When I am resawing, I run the cool blocks firm against the blade; the blade does not twist.


Can the Carter Guides be employed with a narrow bandsaw blade? The resaw blade is at one end of the dichotomy but do they work at the other extreme?

In terms of bearing noise, is there a significant difference with the Carter Guides? Permanently eliminating that squeal would be a very significant factor for me.

If you are permanantly eliminating cool blocks from your bandsaw, I have a goody box here where the abandoned hardware can be deposited for future use.

[dusty]

I got up this morning anxious to check out my other band saw with the previous resaw blade. Immediately I recognized that it is not a resaw blade. As best I can tell, it is a 1/2" combination 6or7 TPI raker (555196). It cuts straight both when ripping and when resawing. Cut quality is terrible (for a resaw blade) but may be what is expected for a combination blade.

This is the Shopsmith Description of the blade that I think I am talking about:

E. 1/2" Combination Bandsaw Blade:
1/2" Combination - 6 TPI Raker - Heavy-duty, general-purpose blade for wood, plywood and nonferrous metals. Suitable for wood up to 6-inches thick and metal work on stock up to 1/2-inch thick. 2-inch minimum radius.

A couple pictures of the cut quality:

Blade Saw Cut Quality 004 (Large).jpg (480.66 KiB) Viewed 35077 times

Blade Saw Cut Quality 007 (Large).jpg (661.92 KiB) Viewed 35077 times

I guess this might be an example of "the right tool for the job". In other words, I'll use this blade for cutting plywood and 2/4s.

[charlese]

Cool blocks work BEST when squared to the blade and set UP AGAINST THE BLADE - not any distance away. Just snug the blocks up against the blade - NO PLAY AT ALL.

[forrestb]

Cool blocks work BEST when squared to the blade and set UP AGAINST THE BLADE - not any distance away. Just snug the blocks up against the blade - NO PLAY AT ALL.

Chuck, I have no doubt that this works even though not recommended by SS, but the constant rubbing will heat up the blocks (will they expand and get tighter on the blade?) and the blade to some degree. Short runs would be my suggestion doing it this way.

Just a thought.

Forrest

[charlese]

Cool blocks work BEST when squared to the blade and set UP AGAINST THE BLADE - not any distance away. Just snug the blocks up against the blade - NO PLAY AT ALL.

Chuck, I have no doubt that this works even though not recommended by SS, but the constant rubbing will heat up the blocks (will they expand and get tighter on the blade?) and the blade to some degree. Short runs would be my suggestion doing it this way.

Just a thought.

Forrest

Oh, but it IS recommended by Shopsmith. In a conversation with Jim McCann. Constant rubbing may heat up, but Cool Blocks lubricate the blade not expand.

[Mike907]

From the Cool Blocks installation instructions:

"4 Adjust the distance between the blade and the guide blocks. This distance should be between .003′′ and .005′′ which is roughly the thickness of a piece of paper. A dollar bill is .004′′ thick and will give you an accurate measurement. Fold the dollar bill over the back of the blade. Position the paper and the blade between the blocks. Gently move the two blocks together holding the two folds of paper and the blade between the blocks. Be careful not to deflect the blade to one side or another. Tighten the blocks and slide the paper out. If the paper doesn't slide, the blocks are too close. After removing the paper you should see an equal amount of light on each side of the blade between the two blocks."

From the Shopsmith website:

"Bandsaw Cool Blocks Blade Guide
Cool Blocks blade guides are made of a special, non-metallic material that lubricates your bandsaw blades as they cut, keeping them cool and reducing the chance of premature breakage. And since they won't damage blade teeth, you can really snug them down for added stability when working with smaller blades.

Required if you're using our 1/16-inch Blade (555386)."

Mike

[claimdude]

Gene,

Can the Carter guides be used only with the 1/2" blade? I have a 1/4" blade in my saw a lot, would I have to change from the carter bearings to the stabilzer bearing when going to a narrow blade like the 1/4"?

Thanks
Jack

Yesterday, I received and installed the Carter guide system on the band saw.
I know that many guys don't feel that they help in any appreciable fashion, but WOW, what a difference they make on my saw with the 5/8, 4 TPI blade.
I was able to resaw a 3/16" X 5" with absolutely no deviation and, even though previous set up attempts indicated there was a need for a cocked fence to accommodate for drift, a squared up fence was used with beautiful results.
I'm sold!

BTW, I increased the speed from "Slow" to the "B" setting, as suggested. I had tried this setting before installing the Carter guides and it helped a little, but now, it's darned near perfect.

[charlese]

From the Cool Blocks installation instructions:

"4 Adjust the distance between the blade and the guide blocks. This distance should be between .003′′ and .005′′ which is roughly the thickness of a piece of paper. A dollar bill is .004′′ thick and will give you an accurate measurement. Fold the dollar bill over the back of the blade. Position the paper and the blade between the blocks. Gently move the two blocks together holding the two folds of paper and the blade between the blocks. Be careful not to deflect the blade to one side or another. Tighten the blocks and slide the paper out. If the paper doesn't slide, the blocks are too close. After removing the paper you should see an equal amount of light on each side of the blade between the two blocks."

From the Shopsmith website:

"Bandsaw Cool Blocks Blade Guide
Cool Blocks blade guides are made of a special, non-metallic material that lubricates your bandsaw blades as they cut, keeping them cool and reducing the chance of premature breakage. And since they won't damage blade teeth, you can really snug them down for added stability when working with smaller blades.

Required if you're using our 1/16-inch Blade (555386)."

Mike

It is too bad that the thickness of a piece of paper is used in the instructions for Cool Blocks. This is also the instruction for using carbon blocks.

Here is from the sale description from Shopsmith. (Note the words ... you can really snug them down for added stability...)
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... blocks.htm

Also (as said earlier) During an e-mail conversation with Jim McCann, about using the bandsaw with a PowerPro, we talked about Cool Blocks. His words were to snug the blocks up to the blade.

I have found that snugging Cool Blocks down, behind the teeth, when using 1/2" or 1/4" blades makes the blades really stable. Perfect for sawing an unwavering line,

Note: I noticed that Mike had emboldened the "Snug words" but they don't show up to well in this format. I took the liberty of also underlining them.

[claimdude]

Gene,

Can the Carter guides be used only with the 1/2" blade? I have a 3/8" blade in my saw a lot, would I have to change from the carter bearings to the stabilzer bearing when going to a narrow blade like the 3/8"?

Thanks
Jack