Shopsmith Forums

Hi tdorey! You loosed the bolts and then you can twist the table. Don't align the table with the sanding disk. Align it using the miter gauge, a allen wrench through it against the rip fence.

Rather than try to explain - recommend you search this forum, using the search function on top of every page, for "table alignment" There are quite a few old posts explaning and discussing that issue.

The good news is - once it's done it will stay that way.

tdorey wrote:Yes, It could be. Thats a good point. Under the table there are four bolts that are suppose to be adjustable to align table, But I can't see how, they are just strait bolts.

Any suggestions for aligning the table to the sanding disc? It is out about 1/16, but those bolts only loosen and tighten.

Thanks.

That is most of your problem. Align the whole machine and you will improve much. I will look for a link for a step by step ... hang on ....

Edit: here is a video, there are threads that cover this in depth. I will look for it, but search the site for "alignment" and you will get a lot of info .... http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... gnment.htm

If you do not already know, it is time for you to learn how to SEARCH the forum for this sort of topic.

In this case, do a search for "main Table Alignment but first make sure you have something to drink and your eye glasses are clean. There is a lot to read.

Incidently - loosen all four of those botls on the under side of the table and you will find that the table moves around quit a bit. Now all you have to do is align it to the blade (not the sanding disk) and secure the four bolts.

Others are going to point you to specific procedures so I won't.

tdorey wrote:Yes, It could be. Thats a good point. Under the table there are four bolts that are suppose to be adjustable to align table, But I can't see how, they are just strait bolts.

Any suggestions for aligning the table to the sanding disc? It is out about 1/16, but those bolts only loosen and tighten.

Thanks.

Blade/sanding disk are both a satisfactory reference if used properly(Always reference the same point on the blade/disk).

The table miter gauge slots MUST be parallel to the blade/sanding disk.

Not being so is a safety hazard.



P.S. a dial indicator is not necessary. A rod in the mitergauge holes or against the face will get it quite close.
After the slots are parallel to the blade, the rip fence must also(aligning the fence to the miter slot accomplishes that.

Do not overlook the $20 bill shim.

I got my SS new in '82. When I switched to a thin kerf blade it made a world of difference to the overall performance. I have one for ripping and a combo blade. Just my 2¢

I will trying aligning the table top.

I tried a couple oak pieces with a new blade with same result. Smoke and then the breaker blew.

Tdorey
Do you have the owner's manual? It gives instruction on how to align the table. 1/16 is a LOT to be out although the sanding disc could also be warped. With the bolts under the table loose, the table can be shifted to bring it into alignment.
Try to align the table to the blade using the miter gauge slots as the guide. The rip fence can be aligned to the table slots. Remember that the table should be aligned to the blade first before any other adjustments are made.
Bill V
PS I also agree with JPG that misalignment is a safety hazard.

The answer here is all of the above. When using a SS to cut 8/4 cherry you need a sharp blade and everything aligned. Get your blade sharpened and everything aligned and it will cut your 8/4 cherry just fine. Another item that is often overlooked is the electrical connection. Make sure it is plugged directly into an adequate outlet. No extension cords !
Paul

Under the table there are four bolts that are suppose to be adjustable to align table, But I can't see how, they are just strait bolts.