Shopsmith Forums

Hi Dusty! The height of the blade in the photo bothers me a bit. Could the bevel tool could also be used with a conical sanding disk? Operating either through the table (with no insert) or from the table edge.

dusty wrote: Here are pictures of the Bevel-Miter Gauge. Please ignore the fact that the blade is set much to high to be safe. Not good.

Yes, Charlese, I think that it might function that way...with either the conical or the regular disk.

I'll try to set it up that way tomorrow. I'm still restricted from making dust but I can give it a dry run.

Did you have anything specific in mind?

dusty wrote:Yes, Charlese, I think that it might function that way...with either the conical or the regular disk.

I'll try to set it up that way tomorrow. I'm still restricted from making dust but I can give it a dry run.

Did you have anything specific in mind?

If you used the regular disk, woodn't it try to lift the work piece after passing the "half-way" mark?

dusty wrote:Yes, Charlese, I think that it might function that way...with either the conical or the regular disk.

I'll try to set it up that way tomorrow. I'm still restricted from making dust but I can give it a dry run.

Did you have anything specific in mind?

Specific? - My mind? - Ahhh, nope!

First - Glad you are still being careful with your new eyes!
Second - Thanks for highlighting the "high saw disclaimer" It sure helped my eyes!
Third - If using the flat disk, I think you should only use the roughest sandpaper, and then only operate on the front (down rotating) portion of the disk. If your workpiece isn't wider than 5" then you could work the flat disk by quill extension pulses. The quill extension pulses would have to be of short duration to prevent burning.

a1gutterman wrote:If you used the regular disk, woodn't it try to lift the work piece after passing the "half-way" mark?

How a true woodworker types. If I hadn't sawed it myself, I woodn't believe it.

You can use the table from th belt sander to build that jig without lots of money in it. A drill and tap for a section of miter bar won't hurt the table and the sub-table can easliy be fashioned to work with the sliding arms to set the angle. I haven't done it- it just came to me as I looked at that jig.Comments?mt

Good Idea Mtobey! You could also just use the belt sander - as is! Just tilt the table to the desired degree and sand away! you'll get the desired miter.

eldyfig wrote:How a true woodworker types. If I hadn't sawed it myself, I woodn't believe it.

Hi Tony,
I'm glad that you have sawed my "woodworkers poetic license" use of the English language! A guy has to have a little fun, woodn't you say? Now, if I was a diabetic, I wood check my gluecose level. I wood also pet the fir on my cat. Are you getting all this oakay? Since you are participating on the SS forum, did you cedar tool sales? (Oakay, that one might be going a bit too far!)

I've been doing the "wood" thing for months. When I first started, I wood put "(sp)" after the "misspelled" word.

I'm a bit corn-fused (farm typing):D but why are we trying to make these cuts without tilting the table?
I apologize if I missed the explanation in previous post.

Is that tool the Joint-Matic Bevel Miter Gauge (555461)?