10ER based 30 inch shop built Drum sander

[reible]

Just a few points here.

Many years ago, not long after I got my shopsmith in 1976 I built the same sort of thing out of the plans in the Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone. You turned a wood "drum" and it had a notch in it to hold a wedge that held the sand paper. I think it quite possible that this design was in the older manuals as well. Well it was or is that is? Page 232 in my 10ER version of the book.

They also show using the drum sander in much the same manor. In some of the newer manuals they show using the 6" drum sander and using that in the same manor.... this went away perhaps for safety reasons?????

I was never very happy with these ideas mostly due to the fact that they can throw stock back at you. You also end up having to take really small "cuts", I think the modern book specified like 1/64". They also warn of throwing the sander off just like any lathe turning due to excessive force being applied.

I can see a couple of improvements that I would make if I were doing one of these. First would be to use a faceplate to hold the drum. This was what I did when I built a sandflee sort of sander some years back. During this build I also found that the PVC pipe was not all that round and I needed to turn mine to have it round..... Now was I unlucky or what?

The project could be used on any shopsmith or lathe for that matter so long as the thickness of the wood did not exceed the table to sander distance. If you were to plan to do only thinner stock then I would opt for a larger drum size which would run cooler and most likely give a better, flatter finishes. The drum sander I have has I believer a 5" drum and yes it gets warm when sanding if with lighter cuts.

The real winning aspect of the commercial machines is the feed belt that is motor driven but even a hand crank would be better then attempting to push stock through in my option. If that is not reasonable then a sled that could be pulled through would be an improvement.

I have some more thoughts but I'll save them for later.

Ed

[rjent]

Just a few points here.

Many years ago, not long after I got my shopsmith in 1976 I built the same sort of thing out of the plans in the Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone. You turned a wood "drum" and it had a notch in it to hold a wedge that held the sand paper. I think it quite possible that this design was in the older manuals as well. Well it was or is that is? Page 232 in my 10ER version of the book.

They also show using the drum sander in much the same manor. In some of the newer manuals they show using the 6" drum sander and using that in the same manor.... this went away perhaps for safety reasons?????

I was never very happy with these ideas mostly due to the fact that they can throw stock back at you. You also end up having to take really small "cuts", I think the modern book specified like 1/64". They also warn of throwing the sander off just like any lathe turning due to excessive force being applied.

I can see a couple of improvements that I would make if I were doing one of these. First would be to use a faceplate to hold the drum. This was what I did when I built a sandflee sort of sander some years back. During this build I also found that the PVC pipe was not all that round and I needed to turn mine to have it round..... Now was I unlucky or what?

The project could be used on any shopsmith or lathe for that matter so long as the thickness of the wood did not exceed the table to sander distance. If you were to plan to do only thinner stock then I would opt for a larger drum size which would run cooler and most likely give a better, flatter finishes. The drum sander I have has I believer a 5" drum and yes it gets warm when sanding if with lighter cuts.

The real winning aspect of the commercial machines is the feed belt that is motor driven but even a hand crank would be better then attempting to push stock through in my option. If that is not reasonable then a sled that could be pulled through would be an improvement.

I have some more thoughts but I'll save them for later.

Ed

Thanks Ed for your input.

First, I was leary of "kick back". When I first got it put together, I hand fed some from the outfeed side just to see what I was dealing with. One of the reasons I opted for the smaller pipe was for that very reason. i am running the drum at motor speed and I calculated (don't remember what it was) the FPM speed stock would exit the infeed side if mishandled. The larger drum increases that speed significantly. Yes, it will run on the other two speeds and on high it will exit at a pretty high rate. I have had some small pieces get away from me with no harm, actually even hitting me, but I had already done my due diligence. But your point is well taken.

I agree with the face plate totally. As soon as I can get to it, I plan for wooden plugs for both ends and a dedicated (2) faceplate(s) for the drums. That is an absolute. This rig was simply for proof of operation. I feel it has passed that test so far ...

Your last point on the feed belt. My research showed me that commercial drum sanders use huge horsepower motors because of the relentlessness of the feed motor. You can take huge amounts of material off in a single pass, and I concluded that was the reason for the high power motors. I don't need to do that. I have some idea on feeding mechanically, but I am on hold until I get my final shop at least to a point where I can spread out, right now I am pretty cramped. It took me a while to learn how to feed the beast, so to speak, but I am getting pretty good results.

Finally, after I had this working I was feeling pretty proud of myself and then I found the drum sander plans in my 10ER WWFE book. Just goes to show, nothing new under the sun ....

I truly look forward to hearing what else you have to say on this machine application.

[JPG]

Been 'silently' following this thread. I like it but was concerned re the durability of the end caps.

A 1/4" MDF table surface(waxed) might improve the 'flatness.

[masonsailor2]

I agree about the kick back problem. My drums are 5 inch in diameter and it requires your full attention when doing small pieces. I usually end up using a scrap piece of ply and cutting a notch in it that captures the piece and then use that to push it through. I drew blood a couple of times before I figured that one out. Using that method gives me total control of the piece.
Paul

[rjent]

I agree about the kick back problem. My drums are 5 inch in diameter and it requires your full attention when doing small pieces. I usually end up using a scrap piece of ply and cutting a notch in it that captures the piece and then use that to push it through. I drew blood a couple of times before I figured that one out. Using that method gives me total control of the piece.
Paul

You say "your drums". How is your drum sander configured? Is it a commercial unit, SS mounted ....

I agree with the notched push stick to fit the piece idea. Learned that early. Honestly, I don't have a problem with not only kick back, but I would have to work very hard to get my hands anywhere near the drum (as long as the DC hood is on). like I said in an earlier post, I tested the actual "spitting out" of a "untethered" piece. It is not big deal and again, one of the reasons I opted for the smaller drum.

Am I not seeing something here that I should ....

[masonsailor2]

Mine is SS mounted. I use 5 inch aluminum drums which are made from 5 inch 3/8 wall tubing. I use a three inch faceplate bolted on one end and currently use a live center on the other end. I had them trued up at a machine shop. I just found bearings to replace the live center which come with 5/8 bore and two set screws to accept the tail stock insert ( the one that accepts the drill chuck) which should give me even better stability than the live center on a long term basis. The only issue is that I will have to take them back to the machine shop to have them trued up after I mount them.
Paul

[rjent]

Mine is SS mounted. I use 5 inch aluminum drums which are made from 5 inch 3/8 wall tubing. I use a three inch faceplate bolted on one end and currently use a live center on the other end. I had them trued up at a machine shop. I just found bearings to replace the live center which come with 5/8 bore and two set screws to accept the tail stock insert ( the one that accepts the drill chuck) which should give me even better stability than the live center on a long term basis. The only issue is that I will have to take them back to the machine shop to have them trued up after I mount them.
Paul

Sounds very nice! Can you post some pictures? I would love to see this beast. How do you control the table to drum distance?

[masonsailor2]

The depth is controlled by a platten that has a three point support that are 1/2 inch fine threaded shafts that are tensioned using an o ring that is captured between a fixed nut and a floating nut which are held together with a 1/2 inch drive 12 point socket. I will post pictures later when I get home. I can't do it from my phone.
Paul

[tomsalwasser]

Nice work Dick, thanks for posting. Excellent video too, so helpful in getting a clear understanding.