Once more - the Mark V comes through

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rjent
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by rjent »

Outstanding as usual :eek:

How did you do the grooves in the tapered part of the legs? (if you don't mind sharing :D)
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

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charlese
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by charlese »

You may ask - Why that design on the legs?

I tried to mimic the shape of the legs on the dining table (an antique).
Gave up on making the curved stretchers.
TABLE LEGS.JPG
TABLE LEGS.JPG (87.97 KiB) Viewed 2125 times
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
charlese
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by charlese »

rjent wrote:Outstanding as usual :eek:

How did you do the grooves in the tapered part of the legs? (if you don't mind sharing :D)
With a carving knife and carving "V" and rounded gouges. You will notice I only made 1/2 of the original grooves.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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rjent
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by rjent »

charlese wrote:
rjent wrote:Outstanding as usual :eek:

How did you do the grooves in the tapered part of the legs? (if you don't mind sharing :D)
With a carving knife and carving "V" and rounded gouges. You will notice I only made 1/2 of the original grooves.
Well, like I said, outstanding sir ....
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
masonsailor2
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by masonsailor2 »

Wow. Georgeous !
Paul
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Bruce
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by Bruce »

charlese wrote:Thought it would be appropriate to show the assembled bench. No finish yet. Walnut center Oak surrounds and legs.
That looks like one sturdy bench. Nice work.
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Bruce
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by Bruce »

Did I do that? I posted a reply to your photo and now it's gone.
charlese
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by charlese »

I forgot to mention, When lauding the capabilities of the Mark V, the reason I decided on using the OPR.

The 1/2" mortises in the stretchers and legs were started, at first, with a 1/2" straight bit (W/half inch shank) secured in a Shopsmith router arbor, on the spindle of the PowerPro. At 10,000 RPM things proceeded well. Then all of a sudden one tip of the bit broke and it was not safe to proceed. :eek: -- Made new stretcher boards and switched to the Shopsmith 3/8" bit mounted in the 1/2" arbor. Finished the stretcher and leg mortises with the PowerPro and this set-up.

The PowerPro at top speed worked well with a 1/2" router shank. This was the first time trying the routing feature of the Mark V/PowerPro. :D

That brought me to the need for the bench/breadboard where I thought 3/8" wasn't enough. I had another 1/2" straight bit, but it has a 1/4" shank. Thinking the 10,000 RPM might be a bit hard on the narrow shank, I opted for using the OPR. Even at 22,000 RPM took it pretty slow and things worked out.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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algale
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by algale »

charlese wrote:I forgot to mention, When lauding the capabilities of the Mark V, the reason I decided on using the OPR.

The 1/2" mortises in the stretchers and legs were started, at first, with a 1/2" straight bit (W/half inch shank) secured in a Shopsmith router arbor, on the spindle of the PowerPro. At 10,000 RPM things proceeded well. Then all of a sudden one tip of the bit broke and it was not safe to proceed. :eek: -- Made new stretcher boards and switched to the Shopsmith 3/8" bit mounted in the 1/2" arbor. Finished the stretcher and leg mortises with the PowerPro and this set-up.

The PowerPro at top speed worked well with a 1/2" router shank. This was the first time trying the routing feature of the Mark V/PowerPro. :D

That brought me to the need for the bench/breadboard where I thought 3/8" wasn't enough. I had another 1/2" straight bit, but it has a 1/4" shank. Thinking the 10,000 RPM might be a bit hard on the narrow shank, I opted for using the OPR. Even at 22,000 RPM took it pretty slow and things worked out.
First of all, great work! The bench is looking amazing!

Second, I'm not router savvy enough to follow all of this. Why do you think the first router bit broke? And why would a 1/4 inch shank, 1/2 inch diameter bit do better in the higher RPMs of the OPR than in the PP at lower RPMs? Intuitively, I would have thought the opposite, but again, I'm a router ignoramus.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!

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jsburger
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Re: Once more - the Mark V comes through

Post by jsburger »

algale wrote:
charlese wrote:I forgot to mention, When lauding the capabilities of the Mark V, the reason I decided on using the OPR.

The 1/2" mortises in the stretchers and legs were started, at first, with a 1/2" straight bit (W/half inch shank) secured in a Shopsmith router arbor, on the spindle of the PowerPro. At 10,000 RPM things proceeded well. Then all of a sudden one tip of the bit broke and it was not safe to proceed. :eek: -- Made new stretcher boards and switched to the Shopsmith 3/8" bit mounted in the 1/2" arbor. Finished the stretcher and leg mortises with the PowerPro and this set-up.

The PowerPro at top speed worked well with a 1/2" router shank. This was the first time trying the routing feature of the Mark V/PowerPro. :D

That brought me to the need for the bench/breadboard where I thought 3/8" wasn't enough. I had another 1/2" straight bit, but it has a 1/4" shank. Thinking the 10,000 RPM might be a bit hard on the narrow shank, I opted for using the OPR. Even at 22,000 RPM took it pretty slow and things worked out.
First of all, great work! The bench is looking amazing!

Second, I'm not router savvy enough to follow all of this. Why do you think the first router bit broke? And why would a 1/4 inch shank, 1/2 inch diameter bit do better in the higher RPMs of the OPR than in the PP at lower RPMs? Intuitively, I would have thought the opposite, but again, I'm a router ignoramus.
Thank you Al! I was going to ask the exact same questions.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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