Shopsmith Forums

ERLover wrote:Thanks for the info/learning, cant help you, I know if not a PP most can, but most here dont have one, my thoughts are belt tension and bearings if you did not change upgrade for the new speed, discussed on another thread.
The one I think with a PP spindle with a lot of run out.

Motor to idler shaft by a poly-v belt.

Idler shaft to quill shaft by a second poly-v belt.

The idler shaft needs to be 1.6 x the main shaft rpm.

godavid2 wrote:Sorry, PP is for Power pro. As for doing a search on "headstock hot" I got one return, the one I posted. I thought it abnormal that the shafts were hot after runing the headstock at 10,000 rpm for about five minutes. Also the idler shaft was hot too not warm but hot. When I ran the hs at 3450 rpm for five minutes it did not heat up, thanks.

Sounds normal to me. 10,000 RPM will cause the bearings to heat up. I have run mine for a maximum of 10 minutes or so before giving it a rest. Mine has been run at saw speed or lower for several years. Ir is probably well broken in. Actually 10 minutes is enough time to do a lot of work.

Your Saw speed of 3450 sounds normal too.

Fist, good evening JPG.
2nd should not a PP be able to run at a high RPM for some time? I mean if you are routering ect, should it not take RPMs?

ERLover wrote:Fist, good evening JPG.
2nd should not a PP be able to run at a high RPM for some time? I mean if you are routering ect, should it not take RPMs?

Should, YES.

CAN? For a while.

I think the PP(like the Reeves drive as well) has a lack of adequate ventilation for sustained high speed running.


I will let y'all define 'sustained'. It will depend upon the ambient temperature.

The problem is probably one of three things. 1) The tension is too tight, you should be able to depress the belts about 1/8". 2) The belts tensions are not balanced, that is the belt on the motor is much looser or tighter than the upper one. 3) Or you have one of the belts misaligned, its easy to be just one tooth off on the pulleys. Again running at 10,000 RPM for any length of time is going make things pretty hot even if everything is perfect but you should still be able to keep your hand on the top of the headstock without burning it.

I don't understand why you are using the forum instead of calling Shopsmith. They have the answer. Besides, it should be covered under the warranty. Let them fix the problem.

stephen_a._draper wrote:I don't understand why you are using the forum instead of calling Shopsmith. They have the answer. Besides, it should be covered under the warranty. Let them fix the problem.

Sure! Call em! Let us know the 'response'.

JPG, as always thanks for the education. Not to sound critical, but one of the worst things for electronics is heat. So does SS have a design flaw with PP upgrades in older Head Stocks ??!! Does a new style PP HS have more/better ventilation? Just asking, to get a learning curve in case I would ever go the PP route.

ERLover wrote:JPG, as always thanks for the education. Not to sound critical, but one of the worst things for electronics is heat. So does SS have a design flaw with PP upgrades in older Head Stocks ??!! Does a new style PP HS have more/better ventilation? Just asking, to get a learning curve in case I would ever go the PP route.

For starters, I only know what others have revealed.

The PP has a huge heatsink both on the motor case as well as the electronics.

The headstock has always been a hot box. M5 has one intake(the vent plate) and one exhaust(the motor pan louver). PP does not change that.

However the PP has sensors that will shut it down it it gets too hot.

Hot shafts are not new and I do not think they get hot enough to affect anything other than the bearing grease. JMHO

Ya, I hear and understand, guess they have it engineered. True on the old motor drives not much there, name/SS# plate with the pin holes and the motor pan vents. My nephew turns on a greenie and really no heat build up and he maybe running for close to a hour, but at the lower end speeds.