Shopsmith Forums

Here is a pic of the one I copied, I needed more slots then that one.

ERLover wrote:Here is a pic of the one I copied, I needed more slots then that one.

I understand that is a stock photo but are you a Wusthof or a J. A. Henckels guy? Or something else?

Regarding wood movement, there is a piece of software recommended by Joe Zeh (he wrote a good but sometimes confusing book on Sketchup called "Design Guide for Woodworkers"). The software is Kite Hill master of wood movement or something similar. I've not downloaded it (not certain I have a need), but it is one of the four software programs he "uses" in his cabinet making.
If you plan to glue diverse pieces of wood, the knife block project, segmented bowls, scrap wood band saw boxes and the like, it might be worth a look.

Be well,
Ben

Thanks John and Ed. We bought a set of Case kitchen knives over 40 years ago and it came with a solid walnut block done in the route out style (you can see the joining). Those knives and block have lasted very well over the decades. I was wanting to do a solid block again for a couple of cheap stainless knives that I bought that I sharpen with an electric knife sharpener because sharping the knives by hand hurts my hands too much anymore.

But John, I don't want to use that much Curly Maple if I can help it. Yes it would be easy to make the block with Maple, but I was just spit balling the idea trying to save some curly maple. Hence the question.

ER Lover, that is a slick idea! Lots of ways to implement that ....

Thanks Ben, I will do that.

My research as shown that this was a pretty common thing to do 150 years ago, but over time the layers do separate. I think I might do it anyway, just to see ... learning experience. Our glue today is better (or is supposed to be) so who knows ....

rjent wrote:Thanks John and Ed. We bought a set of Case kitchen knives over 40 years ago and it came with a solid walnut block done in the route out style (you can see the joining). Those knives and block have lasted very well over the decades. I was wanting to do a solid block again for a couple of cheap stainless knives that I bought that I sharpen with an electric knife sharpener because sharping the knives by hand hurts my hands too much anymore.

But John, I don't want to use that much Curly Maple if I can help it. Yes it would be easy to make the block with Maple, but I was just spit balling the idea trying to save some curly maple. Hence the question.

ER Lover, that is a slick idea! Lots of ways to implement that ....

Thanks Ben, I will do that.

My research as shown that this was a pretty common thing to do 150 years ago, but over time the layers do separate. I think I might do it anyway, just to see ... learning experience. Our glue today is better (or is supposed to be) so who knows ....

I certainly understand. However, I think you will have a big problem over time with using such dissimilar woods in a glue up like that.

A lot of antique furniture is hardwood veneer over softwood. "Deal" which was (is?) a name used in England for a pine-type conifer is frequently mentioned in historical texts as the base for veneered 18th and 19th century furniture. A lot of it has held up pretty well a couple hundred years later, so I don't see any issues.

Wish Shipwright would chime in. I think he has probably knows more about veneering than the rest of us put together.

algale wrote:A lot of antique furniture is hardwood veneer over softwood. "Deal" which was (is?) a name used in England for a pine-type conifer is frequently mentioned in historical texts as the base for veneered 18th and 19th century furniture. A lot of it has held up pretty well a couple hundred years later, so I don't see any issues.

Wish Shipwright would chime in. I think he has probably knows more about veneering than the rest of us put together.

So how does the fact that back then the wood was old growth effect this? How was the substrate sawn (quarter sawn)?

jsburger wrote: So how does the fact that back then the wood was old growth effect this? How was the substrate sawn (quarter sawn)?

Good questions. I do not have the answers.

I Have never done veneering, but I get 2-3 WW magazines and on Lumber Jacks Forum, if I remember right and I just kinda skim read topics on veneering, alot use Hyde Glue I think, dont know why. Something for you to check on.
Ya the one I made was layered with Walnut and Cherry. It has 3 rows of blade slots not 2 as the pic I posted, and I counter sunk a 1/2'' diam regular magnet in each slot. Not that I would think one would slide out on its own, except for short parring knives.

algale wrote:

jsburger wrote: So how does the fact that back then the wood was old growth effect this? How was the substrate sawn (quarter sawn)?

Good questions. I do not have the answers.

I would not think old growth/new growth if dried the same would not make a difference.
What would quarter sawn have to do with anything?? Other then the look of the grain? Ah, quarter sawn is more stable if I remember right, then flat sawn.