Shopsmith Forums

rlkeeney wrote:

ERLover wrote: tighter is better.

Timber Wolf doesn't think so,

"We manufacture a very special series of LOW TENSION, HIGH DUCTILE, SILICON STEEL BAND SAW BLADES for wood cutters and sawyers. At the present time from 1/8″ through 2″. Our blades run purposely with 35% to 50% less tension than our competitors carbon blades. Being very stable at low tension, over 70% of the rotation fatigue effect is eliminated, increasing blade body life(flex life) dramatically, and 20% LESS HORSEPOWER IS REQUIRED. Please read “THE 6 RULES OF SAWING” for proper tensioning."

How to tension a Timber Wolf blade:
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six-rul ... awing.html

I stand corrected on those.

rlkeeney wrote:

JPG wrote:If the indicator plate is adjusted properly, you did NOT have the tension completely removed.

If you look at the saw blade in the photo you will see that the blade is touching the end of the tensioner. I didn't use the indicator. I backed it off untill the blade started to come off and the tensioned it just enough to hold it in place.

Everything in the saw top to bottom recently (just before this blade was installed) gone through checked and adjusted if needed.

When 'set' properly, the edge of the red bar will be flush with the bump on the aluminum plate. I am referring to the red bar/aluminum scale only independent of a blade being there. If the red bar is deflecting, there is tension.

I think you just said there was minimal tension.

Apparently enough to get it to cut.

BTW was there sufficient tension to pull the blade into the rear guide bearing 'center'.

I run a 3/8" on my SS BS, and have a 1/2" on my Delta, but after reading this thread I just ordered up a Wood Slicer for the SS BS. Not that I will do a bunch of resawing on it, but the Delta is at home, and I am setting up a shop at moms. Not as efficient as at home, where I have more dedicated machines, thank god for the Grayling SS I picked up here with a BS, and brought down the Greenie jointer, but it is what it is.

It is interesting that the anti flutter instructions are starting to show up more now. I had read about that years ago, perhaps when I first started buying woodslicer blades at Highland. Most places don't mention the subject when they write about setting up your bandsaw but some the blade people do cover it.

When I set up a shop upnorth the idea of having a shopsmith was great but since I didn't have a bunch of SPT's I lacked some capacity but the one I missed the most was the bandsaw. I got one but it never made the trip as I closed up shop there. Still glad to have it here, a second bandsaw is a nice addition. I've often though about parting with one of mine and getting a new one with larger resaw capacity...... doubt that will ever happen but it would be nice.

Ed

Ed, ihave two shopsmith bandsaws and a 17 inch Grizzley. Unless i am cutting large stuff, my go to is the Shopsmith. I like the variable speed option, and the small footprint seems more comfortable. plus i almost lost a finger on the bid Griz! A hungry beast!

I only have one SS band saw but early on I was using it so much I bought the dedicated power stand for it. A couple of years ago I bought a Powermatic 14" band saw from a friend I used to work with. He had medical issues and decided to sell all his equipment. The saw was like brand new. It didn't have more than a few hours on it. It has the mobile base and 6" riser block and the Carter quick tension release. They are close to $1500 with the mobile base and riser block. I got it for $750 with two blades. I keep a 3/4" Timberwolf blade on it most of the time for resawing.

I set up the blade tension adjustment today as described in Timber wolfs documentation. I had to drill a hole and cut a window in my cover so I could see the tension gauge. I remove the guides that had not been removed since the saw was made in 1981. As I expected they didn't just slide out.

When you run the tension up and down the scale there are spots that are smoother than others, At one spot the blade vibrated about 1/2 inch. When all was said and done the spot I chose as best was nearly dead on the 1/2 mark on the gauge not the low side.

Anyone ever put a tension gauge on a Shopsmith bandsaw?

rlkeeney wrote:I set up the blade tension adjustment today as described in Timber wolfs documentation. I had to drill a hole and cut a window in my cover so I could see the tension gauge. I remove the guides that had not been removed since the saw was made in 1981. As I expected they didn't just slide out.

When you run the tension up and down the scale there are spots that are smoother than others, At one spot the blade vibrated about 1/2 inch. When all was said and done the spot I chose as best was nearly dead on the 1/2 mark on the gauge not the low side.

Anyone ever put a tension gauge on a Shopsmith bandsaw?

And if one did, what would it reveal. What meaning would one attach to the 'numbers'?

JPG wrote:And if one did, what would it reveal. What meaning would one attach to the 'numbers'?

I would be curious to see how it would compare to the tension on a conventional saw set up the same way with the Timber Wolf blade. Curiosity nothing more.

It occurred to me that a Shopsmith bandsaw might be running at a low lower tension.

rlkeeney wrote:

JPG wrote:And if one did, what would it reveal. What meaning would one attach to the 'numbers'?

I would be curious to see how it would compare to the tension on a conventional saw set up the same way with the Timber Wolf blade. Curiosity nothing more.

It occurred to me that a Shopsmith bandsaw might be running at a low lower tension.

Ah so. Quite possible considering your observation above. Wonder how the pluck the band or side pressure compares.