I went to the shop and backed the tension off my newly installed blade Thinking that I need to modify the cover before I could set it up as per their recommendations. I backed off the tension until the blade was loose and then lightly snugged it up until I was sure it would not come off.
A few days latter I wanted to test my new magnetic fence. I forgot I had detensioned the blade. I sliced up some 2x into 1/8 thick pieces. Not a problem at all. It cut as smooth as I have ever seen on my saw. I didn't remember until I removed the cover to clean out the saw.
Good tires? Smaller then advertised blade? Inaccurate blade guide in the BS?
How was the drift on the cuts?
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
If the indicator plate is adjusted properly, you did NOT have the tension completely removed.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I am too late to find the video on blade tension, but with the guides all the way up, a light tap with your Index Finger, the blade moves about an 1/8th inch, you will know when and what is the right tension, tighter is better.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
ERLover wrote:I am too late to find the video on blade tension, but with the guides all the way up, a light tap with your Index Finger, the blade moves about an 1/8th inch, you will know when and what is the right tension, tighter is better.
Go read the link in the first post.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG wrote:If the indicator plate is adjusted properly, you did NOT have the tension completely removed.
If you look at the saw blade in the photo you will see that the blade is touching the end of the tensioner. I didn't use the indicator. I backed it off untill the blade started to come off and the tensioned it just enough to hold it in place.
Everything in the saw top to bottom recently (just before this blade was installed) gone through checked and adjusted if needed.
"We manufacture a very special series of LOW TENSION, HIGH DUCTILE, SILICON STEEL BAND SAW BLADES for wood cutters and sawyers. At the present time from 1/8″ through 2″. Our blades run purposely with 35% to 50% less tension than our competitors carbon blades. Being very stable at low tension, over 70% of the rotation fatigue effect is eliminated, increasing blade body life(flex life) dramatically, and 20% LESS HORSEPOWER IS REQUIRED. Please read “THE 6 RULES OF SAWING” for proper tensioning."
