Shopsmith Forums

Tylerh wrote:Thanks Bill. It was mostly just me wanting to completely disable and clean but since it's such a pain I'll leave it. I planned on doing a full cleaning and replacement of essential pieces such as bearings and belts. However am I understanding correctly that you said the new belts I have in the plastic are no longer good? It had the order sheet in the box as well and I'm pretty sure it said they were ordered in 2000.

I would the belts are still okay, unless stored in extreme heat at times. Maybe get some belt dressing spray them and wipe off the excess after a few minutes. I would get new bearings, and if you have a supply house available take them in so you get the right ones, cheaper then the mother ship and no shipping.

Now I'm not a machine guy at all. I'm okay with the tear down and replacing and putting back together but when it comes to parts to get I've got no clue
When you say a supply house nothing comes to mind. Could you give me some names of a few places to look for?

google bearings supply, see what comes up in your area, better yet google bearings supply and then your location.

Tyler
What Lover said is true that the belts may be OK. In order to change the Gilmer belt the drive sleeve has to be removed.Not the easiest job so I would change that belt just to save on future work. The motor belt I would use because it is easier to replace.
For bearings I use WWW.VXB.com. They provide very good service. When I replace bearings I use the rubber sealed ones rather than the shielded ones. They are only slightly more money if at all, and they run quieter.
Bill V

Tylerh wrote:Now I'm not a machine guy at all. I'm okay with the tear down and replacing and putting back together but when it comes to parts to get I've got no clue
When you say a supply house nothing comes to mind. Could you give me some names of a few places to look for?

If you have any mechanical aptitude you can do this, just watch the videos on here on rebuilds and what others, JPG posts there and a few others, if in doubt, post on the forum, most here do more SS mods and rebuilding then wood working now!!!

The Gilmer belt was already snapped and off the machine when I picked it up (hence the missing screws for the belt cover) so I have to put the new one on and I was going to do the drive belt too just because I'll have the headstock apart. But you're saying to just keep the drive belt on until it fails and just do the Gilmer belt?

If you have to change the Gilmer and since you have a new drive belt do them both, IMHO, I mean as long as you are in there and have to redo things, why go thru a drive belt change later? They are a PITB. Peace of mind!!!

If It were me i would change it. But if you cost conscious it may be OK to use. Kind of like a personal choice
Bill V

That was my original plan so I'll stick with that. Now another question, on the back side of the headstock the nameplate is missing and the 2 holes it clips into is just covered with good ole duct tape. I've searched all over eBay and Craigslist and haven't found it. I haven't looked at the mother ship butneven if they do have it I already know I don't want to be pay whatever they want. Does anyone by chance have one floating around they would be willing to part with? It's not the one that covers the access port by the way it's just "for looks" I guess.

There is a tension pin(aka roll pin) that secures the hinge pin. It is visible near one end(yes the end varies) and it is removed by driving it in all the way through the hinge pin. There is a hole on the interior side that allows the tension pin to exit. It is replaced from the same side from which it was driven in. Be careful to not mushroom the tension pin. IIRC a 1/8" pin punch is the tool to use.

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