Jointer Manual Disassemble Maintenance?

[ERLover]

I found a jointer to be typically a safe machine, routers and table saws seem to be the worst. But anything can happen, I always keep both eyes on my hands, and the distant/ prolifical?? vision on the cutting/work piece.

Peripheral.

Thanks RPD, Spell Check was no help!!!!!!!!!

[ERLover]

I found a jointer to be typically a safe machine, routers and table saws seem to be the worst. But anything can happen, I always keep both eyes on my hands, and the distant/ prolifical?? vision on the cutting/work piece.

Peripheral.

Thanks RPD, Spell Check was no help!!!!!!!!!

The only time I kinda break that rule is cutting on a band saw to follow a line, but I set it up b4 hand, and no way my hands/fingers are in harms way, in high school we had a old cast iron 24-30" BS cant remember who made it, I would have to go to Vintage Machinery to jerk my memory, anyway no way to torque this thing down, cast iron wheels 240V ect, well one of my shop mates ran his thumb right down the blade to his wrist, split his thumb in half, machine never bogged down. That was when I learned about 2 hands on the wheel and 2 eyes on the Road, or was Jim Morrison????
When I drive to and fro it is 97 miles door to door and door to I45 both ends is 1.5 miles from driveway to on ramp, at 35 MPH, so I am doing 94 miles, plus those 3 in 75 minutes last time, will get back to you on that math, or JPG do it for me, my head hurts some days

[ERLover]

I found a jointer to be typically a safe machine, routers and table saws seem to be the worst. But anything can happen, I always keep both eyes on my hands, and the distant/ prolifical?? vision on the cutting/work piece.

Peripheral.

Thanks RPD, Spell Check was no help!!!!!!!!!

The only time I kinda break that rule is cutting on a band saw to follow a line, but I set it up b4 hand, and no way my hands/fingers are in harms way, in high school we had a old cast iron 24-30" BS cant remember who made it, I would have to go to Vintage Machinery to jerk my memory, anyway no way to torque this thing down, cast iron wheels 240V ect, well one of my shop mates ran his thumb right down the blade to his wrist, split his thumb in half, machine never bogged down. That was when I learned about 2 hands on the wheel and 2 eyes on the Road, or was Jim Morrison????
When I drive to and fro it is 97 miles door to door and door to I45 both ends is 1.5 miles from driveway to on ramp, at 35 MPH, so I am doing 94 miles, plus those 3 in 75 minutes last time, will get back to you on that math, or JPG do it for me, my head hurts some days
Any way when I drive at that speed, tires are invalidated properly or a touch more, both hands on the wheel, no sight seeing and no cell phone, "JUST DRIVE,ITS A SPORT"

[Ed in Tampa]

Will do. I'm running through the Alignment video first (with Susan! ) Will try to actually -do- something for the first time with the gizmo this weekend.

Sorry. Can't help meself.

What video?

[everettdavis]

Look at adding the safety guard and fence extension with featherboards

Cheaper than any ER visit I've ever heard of.

Two safety upgrades worth the money. Check them out.

Everett

I found a jointer to be typically a safe machine, routers and table saws seem to be the worst. But anything can happen, I always keep both eyes on my hands, and the distant/ prolifical?? vision on the cutting/work piece.

I agree totally. We have done much through the years to make table saws, routers and shapers safer. Many Jointers have a spring-loaded blade cover as the only safety mechanism.

Any tool that can cut through wood and even metal has little resistance with human flesh so we are always on our guard, and hope that all the physical safety guards are properly adjusted and installed on the tools.

If you have ever seen the results of someone getting into one, you know that it doesn’t give any change back. You won’t reattach those fingers as little is left.

I may be more sensitive to that having worked a scene when I was part of an ambulance crew where a Jointer accident had occurred.

My suggestion was offered in that we tend to overlook the Jointer upgrades that are available to us, that will both make us safer and produce very reliable results.

Some folks may not even know of the upgrades, especially if they are a new woodworker, or new to the Jointer.

I agree the table saw and router are easily the most dangerous tools, partially because they are more frequently used in the larger portion of the operations in the shop.

Everett

[JPG]

Look at adding the safety guard and fence extension with featherboards

Cheaper than any ER visit I've ever heard of.

Two safety upgrades worth the money. Check them out.

Everett

I found a jointer to be typically a safe machine, routers and table saws seem to be the worst. But anything can happen, I always keep both eyes on my hands, and the distant/ prolifical?? vision on the cutting/work piece.

I agree totally. We have done much through the years to make table saws, routers and shapers safer. Many Jointers have a spring-loaded blade cover as the only safety mechanism.

Any tool that can cut through wood and even metal has little resistance with human flesh so we are always on our guard, and hope that all the physical safety guards are properly adjusted and installed on the tools.

If you have ever seen the results of someone getting into one, you know that it doesn’t give any change back. You won’t reattach those fingers as little is left.

I may be more sensitive to that having worked a scene when I was part of an ambulance crew where a Jointer accident had occurred.

My suggestion was offered in that we tend to overlook the Jointer upgrades that are available to us, that will both make us safer and produce very reliable results.

Some folks may not even know of the upgrades, especially if they are a new woodworker, or new to the Jointer.

I agree the table saw and router are easily the most dangerous tools, partially because they are more frequently used in the larger portion of the operations in the shop.

Everett

Yes they can bite!

Jointers rotate fast.

I was almost quicker.

Each blade took a nibble. Three slices.

Finger now a bit shorter.

Lesson learned! Never that careless since. Intend to keep it that way!

Not saying lack of future 'risk taking', but well thought out ahead of time since.

Not recommended for others to emulate!

[suntower]

So next challenges. I got the older manual and it mostly looks like what I've got but...

1. The Guard seems to be missing some parts, first off under the cap so that it doesn't have any spring tension. I have the spring itself, but not the other bits (the washer). And I don't understand how it actually -works-. How is it held in place on the table? There's the hex bolt, but I don't get how one is able to turn it to tighten it? Can someone please explain?

2. The fence has a 'quadrant' to slide along the table. OK, how do you lock it in place? The miter lock works to control the angle but that doesn't lock the lateral movement. What am I missing?

See attachment.

TIA,

---JC

[JPG]

The fence 'lock' knob does both.

Pulling out and turning rotates a screw that bears against the end of a pin that presses against the flat rail. * ***

Pushing in and turning clamps the fence angle.

* the pin may be missing. It is a steel dowel pin.

The guard has an internal rotary spring. Viewing from the top, rotating the knob CW should twist the spring causing the guard to try rotating CW. With the spring 'cocked', the hex on the bottom fits into the hex hole on the bed of the infeed table. The spring should force the guard against the fence.

*** Resist the urge to get gorilla like. The rear of the base can be deformed all too easily with excessive clamping force.

[suntower]

As always, thanks for the reply. From the exploded drawing, there are obviously some parts missing. I guess I should call Shopsmith in the AM to order?

But what would REALLY help would be if there was a video or three about -my- model showing how things work. The only videos I've seen for the Jointer are for newer models AND they all seem to have that taller fence. I can't -see- how the guard is supposed to work.

I think I figured out the lock issue... the red handle locks the angle, but there's a big lag bolt with a hex end that locks the fence 'travel'. But I think the prior owner just had a washer on there which was preventing it from tightening far enough.

If you look here: http://www.shopsmith.com/service/jointe ... iagram.htm

...see part #50...

What I don't get is... that hex end fits almost -inside- the concentric outer ring where the angle lock handle is. How is one supposed to tighten/loosen that bolt? Is there some sort of spacer that makes it jut out far enough to get a wrench on it?

Do you happen to have any piccies of how a 'Greenie' Jointer is -supposed- to look? I think there's some washer missing.

As always...

---JC

[JPG]

The steel dowel pin is missing. (#46 1/4" x 1")

The fence height has not changed over the years????

It there a knob on the top of the guard above the 'hex' post?