First, I think I screwed up. This is the pulley assembly from a speed changer. The fixed sheaves have been removed because the floating sheave is frozen. I'm assuming that the sheave moves where the arrow is pointing, but wasn't 100% sure. I initially began soaking it in PB blaster but then found a manual that said to soak it in paint thinner or a solvent... Then I read to "NEVER loosen the special size set screws". Oops. How bad is this?
It is not bad at all. In the speed changer manual under "Care of your Speed Changer" it does say never loosen those screws. On the last page of the manual under "Trouble Shooting the Speed changer" it says if the distance between the outer sheaves is greater than 2" loosen those screws and set the sheaves to 2".
When I refurbish a speed changer I always completely disassemble it and then set the sheaves to 2" when I reassemble it.
As for the item on the right I don't know. It looks like the carriage stop rod except I have never seen one with a dimple in it. All the ones I have seen have a screwdriver slot in the non threaded end.
Ok, great. That helps a lot. I have most everything figured out except for just a few random pieces. Some of it was just random junk parts that my grandpa saved with the shopsmith stuff for some reason. This looked like it might be part of something that he no longer has.
I'm excited to get it up and running again! I'll post some pictures once I do. Thanks for the help guys!
Soaking the speed changer in paint thinner or solvent pertains to removing "belt" dust and dried or gummed grease. Keep soaking it in the PB blaster or kerosene, etc. for freeing a frozen part.
Just give it time to do the job. I've had many speed changers which were froze up and with enough time, it will free up. Don't rush it and start beating on things... I've had a few which took 8 to 10 days to free up.
As John mentioned with the special set screws, it's no problem. When I acquire a new speed changer, I completely disassemble them too!
First, I think I screwed up. This is the pulley assembly from a speed changer. The fixed sheaves have been removed because the floating sheave is frozen. I'm assuming that the sheave moves where the arrow is pointing, but wasn't 100% sure. I initially began soaking it in PB blaster but then found a manual that said to soak it in paint thinner or a solvent... Then I read to "NEVER loosen the special size set screws". Oops. How bad is this?
Second, what is this little part on the right?
I appreciate any info you guys have on this.
IMG_6634.JPG (106.86 KiB) Viewed 8102 times
The part on the right is for the A-34 Jig Saw, it is the Saber Saw Support, part number 134-13.
Ron Dyck
==================================================================
10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Thanks for the responses. The help has been great.
I got it freed up and off with a puller. I probably should have waited longer, because there were some scratches inside the floating sheave. It took a little sanding to get smoothed out and working again.
So now everything is clean and the floating sheave floating again. While trying to reassemble, I spaced the fixed sheaves out to just under 2" but it seems too far spread out. The fixed sheaves are right on the edge of the spindle and I'm still about 1/16" short of 2". Is this right or am I measuring this the wrong way? Thanks.
I would move each out about 1/32". The 'end' of the spindle is not critical since the bushings are what rides on the 'shaft'. Do try to make the 'overhang' equal.
FWIW they look to me to be still short of the end of the spindle.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG wrote:I would move each out about 1/32". The 'end' of the spindle is not critical since the bushings are what rides on the 'shaft'. Do try to make the 'overhang' equal.
FWIW they look to me to be still short of the end of the spindle.
Ya they are. I can take them out a little further and call it good. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't measuring wrong.
What is the best lubricant to use for the floating sheave?
#10 machine oil - same as for Mark floating sheaves.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I searched the forum but I'm not finding an answer to this question:
Can I use a link belt with the speed changer? I have to order some random parts from Skip at MKC so I figured I should ask just in case I need to add a speed changer belt set to the cart. I already have a link belt but I can't find where anyone is using them with a speed changer.
Also, where do you buy machine oil? I realize that this is a stupid question, but I am completely lost on this. I see that oils have ISO and SAE grades. I'm assuming I need ISO 10? I found what I believe is the right stuff but the smallest quantity is a quart, which seems excessive and kind of expensive. When I google "#10 machine oil", the only thing I am finding locally is this 3-in-1 oil and sewing machine oils.
gurrenteed wrote:I searched the forum but I'm not finding an answer to this question:
Can I use a link belt with the speed changer? I have to order some random parts from Skip at MKC so I figured I should ask just in case I need to add a speed changer belt set to the cart. I already have a link belt but I can't find where anyone is using them with a speed changer.
Also, where do you buy machine oil? I realize that this is a stupid question, but I am completely lost on this. I see that oils have ISO and SAE grades. I'm assuming I need ISO 10? I found what I believe is the right stuff but the smallest quantity is a quart, which seems excessive and kind of expensive. When I google "#10 machine oil", the only thing I am finding locally is this 3-in-1 oil and sewing machine oils.
There is some difference in opinion re using link belts. At potential risk is increased wear of the pulleys.
3 in one/ sewing machine oil are good. Also look for turbine(electric motor) oil and zoom spout oil.(the 'spout' is a great plus).
Motor oil has additives that are not needed/desired.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
