Speed control stuck

[br549]

While the motor pieces are apart any good suggestions on what to clean? There is a decent amount of dust build up on the windings so I am thinking a spray of air and vacuum to clean.

A good blowing out with compressed air and some careful brushing with an old toothbrush is what I have done several times over the years, usually after the motor fails to start. I usually just access the easy end, but if you have already removed the fan sheave then you can attack it from both ends. Just be careful and don't let the armature slide out unexpectedly and damage the centrifugal starting switch (if yours has one like mine). Attached are some before pictures of the last time I had mine apart for cleaning.

[wa2crk]

Eric
The windings look to be in excellent shape. I would replace the control sheave as the most expedient thing to do. Clean the centrifugal switch and put a VERY small amount of light weight oil on the pivots. As long as you have it open replace the bearings. (cheap) If some of the parts are on back order check with Bill Mayo on this forum he may have what you need.
Bill V
PS You will have to replace the porkchop on the speed control. The arms of the speed control do not look too bad from what I can see of it.

[JPG]

The control sheave still has the bearing outer race staked in the nose. Reliably replacing he bearing is somewhat difficult.

I would replace the quadrant gear. It is what wears and makes the control not work properly anyway(gear teeth get mashed). Check the legs it mounts to for being spread/bent. Bill Mayo's fix can remedy the leg problem that causes porkchop tooth wear and misalignment.

The wear to the fan sheave vanes is I believe caused by the sheaves closing too far due to motor belt being too narrow and/or the control sheave opening too far(likely both).

[Ericthet]

Bill/JPG, thanks for the input.

On a good note, I cleaned the motor shaft, filed the vanes a bit and generally fiddled. For whatever reason it seems to fit properly now. There is still very little play on the keys (good) so I am not really sure why it was sticking so bad and why it looked so misaligned. I do notice if you slam them together closer than they would be with a belt they stick a bit, but it takes very little pressure to pull them apart and they don't stick when spaced with the belt. I haven't put the setscrew on the fan sheave but I think we have one problem down. If it mounts all back up well I will call that fixed (for now).

Sounds like quadrant and control sheave replacement time from what I am hearing. I would like to skip the quadrant but for $27 it doesn't seem like it would hurt to just replace it.

Will let you guys know. I am a little leary of greasing the gears (worm and quarant and possibly the quill). With as much fine dust in there will it just gum up over time? Is it worth some thick grease on those gears? I feel it would be good just worried with all the dust penetration.

[ERLover]

Bill/JPG, thanks for the input.

On a good note, I cleaned the motor shaft, filed the vanes a bit and generally fiddled. For whatever reason it seems to fit properly now. There is still very little play on the keys (good) so I am not really sure why it was sticking so bad and why it looked so misaligned. I do notice if you slam them together closer than they would be with a belt they stick a bit, but it takes very little pressure to pull them apart and they don't stick when spaced with the belt. I haven't put the setscrew on the fan sheave but I think we have one problem down. If it mounts all back up well I will call that fixed (for now).

Sounds like quadrant and control sheave replacement time from what I am hearing. I would like to skip the quadrant but for $27 it doesn't seem like it would hurt to just replace it.



Will let you guys know. I am a little leary of greasing the gears (worm and quarant and possibly the quill). With as much fine dust in there will it just gum up over time? Is it worth some thick grease on those gears? I feel it would be good just worried with all the dust penetration.

I am no expert here, but I would polish those shafts a bit, down to 400 wet and not the grease, 3n1 Mineral oil, just wet with a finger wipe. You still have a burr or something going on, and it will come back to haunt you once all assembled. i have been there, not on SS but it will come back, do it right up the first time.
On my ERs and Skips HS machined/balanced pulleys, I could only get them on with a mallet tap or a gear puller, I said no, this is not right, I hit the HS shaft with 220 then 320 so with just a touch of oil they slid on and off. That is how most things should move on a shaft. Unless a shrink fit which SS stuff is NOT.

[JPG]

Low viscosity grease or oil(both sparingly) or powdered graphite on the quill and quadrant gears.

[Ericthet]

Just to finish this thread off, I meant to come back and lost track.

I did end up buying a new quadrant and pulley+bearing. After putting it all back together and lubing it all up it is running great again. I do have to correct the speed dial as I think I indexed it wrong or something because the speeds don't sound/feel right. I think I got a tach to test.

Otherwise I wanted to thank all of you for your great insight!

[JPG]

A high speed adjustment will correct the dial positioning.